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Talladega or Bust - 1970 Super Bird Cleanup

Tested the switch again in neutral, park and reverse for proper function before closing things up.
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Almost put the pan on without the filter, that would have involved some curse words.
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Specs say bare, some same sealant, I'll go 25% with a light line of aviation sealant around the outer edge of the pan only.
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Gasket in place and bolts threaded into the gasket.
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Pan in place, all bolts 150 in lbs.
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Shifter and throttle levers back in place.
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Torque converter cover back on.
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Shifter shaft bracket back in place and console shifter tested for function and again if it'll start in neutral and park, as well as reverse lights in reverse.
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Rocker cover gaskets are leaking and I've got to keep reminding myself I'm trying to get it ready for Spring cruising and not starting a restoration.
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Correct '70 rocker covers vs the '71's that are on the engine.
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Quick 320 sand and degreased
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The old plasti dip. Had to thin it a bit with Toluol but still usable.
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Cut down a pill bottle and filled to dip the wiring tabs.
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All coated and the smears easily roll off a few minutes later.
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Primed with some high build Duplicolor Enamel.
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Hemi Orange Duplicolor Enamel and of course I ran out after Carquests hours. Might be a 7 day wait to 2nd coat now, that and the colour isn't to my liking either.
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Not the first time I've been pissed with Duplicolor primer and their paint not liking each other. I may learn some day and why I'm not a painter.
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Wayne, my Coronet backup lights flicker when I shift the 727 into reverse. Is there a trick to adjusting the linkage to make the lights stay on in reverse?
 
Wayne, my Coronet backup lights flicker when I shift the 727 into reverse. Is there a trick to adjusting the linkage to make the lights stay on in reverse?
I'd try snugging the switch up first, it may just need that little bit more in to actuate smoothly. If not, loose wiring plug or valve body or comb not lined up smoothly. FSM states to make sure the switch operates smoothly before tightening the valve body.
 
I'd try snugging the switch up first, it may just need that little bit more in to actuate smoothly. If not, loose wiring plug or valve body or comb not lined up smoothly. FSM states to make sure the switch operates smoothly before tightening the valve body.
Uncle Bill rebuilt it but I reinstalled it. So, I probably didn't do that right. Can it be corrected next time I drop the pan?
 
Like I said, try giving the switch a snug first. Make sure the plug is seated nicely while you're under there. You could also put a meter on it and shift the gears while there..
 
I like the Bill Hirsch Auto paints but the’ve gotten very pricey. I haven’t had any luck with Duplicolor primer. I use an aerosol self etching primer that I get locally. The duplicolor top coat goes over nicely.
 
Line separation not going well.. break out the gas wrench.

Got a bit stupid and didn't give a lot of thought to heating the metal hose end to get it to let go of the hard line. Only took about 1/2 an hour for my hearing to come back after the hose exploded and fortunately I missed the hot DOT 3 bath.

But what was left of the hose then let go and it was a smoking success!

The drivers side the tube nut was already round and it wasn't coming out. Fortunately it's a really short line and the inner end came out of the splitter block easily so I could remove the line.

Made a new line from a fresh one I had in the tool box and then I just HAD to make it look like OEM.

40 minutes of wrapping safety wire, some day I'll learn to leave well enough alone.

Dorman H35017, a correctly fitting and length replacement flex hose from the hard line at the frame to the Kelsey/Hayes caliper.

Drivers side back together and pretending to be OEM.

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I have had that same thing happen to me, heating a brake fitting only I got the hot spray on me. Happens to the best of us.
That brake line guard, the coil slid over the line, is available through dorman or one of the brake supply places. I used to use it a lot before the repro lines came out.
 
I like the Bill Hirsch Auto paints but the’ve gotten very pricey. I haven’t had any luck with Duplicolor primer. I use an aerosol self etching primer that I get locally. The duplicolor top coat goes over nicely.
Nobody can/will ship us paint North of the border.... other than Amazon gets away with it!
 
Found the primer to actually go with the engine enamel.
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All over town to find one can only in CTC.
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Sanded out the fish eyes and took a chance the fresh paint wouldn't curdle and got lucky. A few layers of primer to smooth some spots out and then waited to paint. Almost missed my "window" digging out the fuel truck.
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Hose is a PITA on the lift as a trip point, but my Pepsi habit to the rescue.
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Works perfect and gives a better work height as well to reach the engine.
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6 pack racks on the other side.
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Damn near wrecked the breather getting it out of the hardened old rubber grommet. Had to use a ball joint pickle fork.
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Threw it into some 100LL to hopefully soften it up a bit.
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3 coats of paint and the can was toast, but found this can was a nicer shade than the last one.
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Came out nice and under the bake oven for the night.
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Vaseline petroleum jelly is great for softening rubber also....just make sure you wipe it off after a few hours (overnight)

Excellent for helping to bed-in new door rubbers. :thumbsup:

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Wife and I are working on our route, as she can only go 3 to 4 hours at a time or the next day is a right off. We were originally going to cross the border at Buffalo, but now looks like we're leaving Friday and staying at her cousins in Arkona, Ontario for the night. Then Saturday crossing the Blue Water Bridge and heading for the Gilmore Museum North of Kalamazoo MI to sign Justin's car, probably sleeping in the parking lot so we can take it all in Saturday afternoon (if we make it before closing) and most likely more on Sunday AM. Off from there the 4+ hours to the Wright / Dayton Ohio AirForce Museum. Not sure if we'll tour it on Sunday or Monday, will depend on arrival time. If anyone is in these areas and wants to meet, come look for our truck/trailer and you know my ugly mug by now! I don't have a smart phone, but if we have wifi I should be able to update using the wife's laptop.
I'm 3 years too late. lol. I'm about 25 min from the museum.
 
Only took me an hour to find them, but I knew I had a new valve cover bolt kit in my spares.
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Looks pretty damn good, haven't been in here in 32 years. No collapsed lifters and can't see any valve seals that are split either. Good to go...
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Both covers off and scraping gasket residue, then cleaned the head tops with 100LL to degrease before putting the new covers on.
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Vacuuming out any cork chips.
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Flushing the breather out with 100LL over and over again until all the carbon and goo is out.
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Rocker covers old school. Plain cork. Had good luck on the Dart with cork and zero leaks using no sealant. I used the newer "hard" style gaskets on the Bee and they weep.
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Almost gouged the new paint with a screw driver while trying to get the grommets in.
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Covers on and snugged for the night for the cork to set. Not quite the same shade as the orange I used 32 years ago, but the air cleaner will cover most of it up for now. Next Winter I plan to drop the entire K frame and clean everything up nice using my PST suspension kit I won last year.
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Dipstick almost forgot the dipstick! Had just enough in the paint can to hit it twice.
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Might as well change the oil while I'm at it...
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What is this 100LL you keep mentioning?
 
What is this 100LL you keep mentioning?
My one fluid multiple use fuel! AV gas.. 100LL. It's all I use as a cleaner. Works great and yesterdays load was "only" $8US/US gallon. Degreaser, that works like ****, costs more than that.
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I haven't as much as touched a screw on this carb since buying the car in 1990. Runs like a top...
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Oil filter coming off and avoiding a mess with a bent sheet of aluminum.
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Putting that compost bin to good use again.
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Covers both on and tightened down one last time, air cleaner back in place, oil filter on, 5 quarts of 20W50 in and ready to run.
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Air cleaner hides the off shade of orange pretty good and blends things all together.
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I haven't as much as touched a screw on this carb since buying the car in 1990. Runs like a top...
Dollars to donuts....if you decide to tear down that carb now after all these years.....it'll never run the same. :lol:

Nice engine shots. :thumbsup:
 
Three years ago today we were doing this..... so need to do it again ! Although it's starting to sound like the 2024 reunion might be held in Tennessee..
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