The 1969 Z/28

[DynaBro]

Any members really knowledgeable on the 1969 Z28? That was my dad's car and he doesn't have a lot of time left. I've been wanting to find one for years and years for him to enjoy before he goes but there are two hurdles. The first is the absurd pricing and the second is the difficulty in determining the authenticity of the Z28 car. I realize it's nowhere near as easy as it is to numbers match most of our cars. And most of them I find have been so heavily modded out I don't even know if they still qualify. I know the X77 trim tag is important but far from the end all be all of authenticity. And also I do not know the REAL pricing market, as well all know peer to peer sales are a very different story than ebay and BAT.

Anyone here who might be able to help me on this project?

 

[guy gadbois]

Wish I could...
You're right about the x77, but memory tells me that there is an x33 also, depending on which plant it was produced at. Double check me tho. Might go peruse Camaro Research Group for more. Usta know a lot/most of that stuff, but lack of use has allowed that section of memory to atrophy a bit.
Youre right about the insane prices too...

 

[JackR]

Yes the x33 and x77 should be on the trim tag. Those are Z28 only codes. One has wheel opening and drip rail trim, the other doesn’t. Engine stamp should be DZxxxxxx. Should have 12 bolt rear axle too.

 

[AR67GTX]

If you’ve been watching BaT then you know the market. Jerry McNeish (believe spelling is close) has had a Z28 inspection and certification program for some time that is usually considered the gold standard of certification and authenticity. But seems I recall he has slacked off in this endeavor in recent times - not sure. But if you can find a car in your budget that has been verified and certified by him I think you can feel pretty confident it’s real.

 

[AR67GTX]

Close on his name.

Website: Camaro Hi-Performance | Appraisal, Consulting and Restoration Services

 

[DynaBro]

So really it comes down to tags if the motor and trans are not original? On some of our cars, like my year and model, there are a lot of other things that have to be correct for the tag to match the car. Suspension, etc. that is not original to the base models of the same body. Sounds like a fairly easy thing to fake if you have a wrecked Z28. Just pop the tags off and voila you can slap them on a base model, add a 12 bolt rear end and call it a non numbers matching Z28?

 

[69L48Z27]

CRG mentioned already is a fantastic resource. Z/28 authenticity is a real problem. The trim tag X codes didn’t start until later in the year and LA built cars didn’t have X codes at all. Prices for real, documented, cars are $75k plus. Original engine with good stamps are the best way to know what you have. Stay away from the Z/28s with automatics and good luck.

 

[bandit67]

No air conditioning available on Z 28 models till 73. The prices for those things are stupid crazy, find him a nice clone. jmho

 

[DeltaV]

I think it comes down to paperwork and records for provenance. A car with provenance is going to be more expensive of course.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

Have you asked your Dad if he could have any car from back in the day what it would be? He might surprise you. It may not be the Z28 you think it is. There are a lot of cars I always wanted, not just one.

 

[Photon440]

I've always thought the 1969 was the best year. My brother-in-law has a '69 Z/28, it looked rather plain with a flat hood, not the cowl induction hood. He bought it brand new and has kept it all this time so it's a one owner car.

 

[gtxdana]

Out of the 20K 69 Z/28 Camaros built, there are about 75K left on the road today.

Only the Norwood cars had the X33 or X77 codes. No info on the cowl tag for Los Angeles cars. Restamps, fake cowl tags, Protecto Plates, and documentation are out there.

There should be a single 3/8" fuel line, four leaf rear springs, power front disc brakes, four speed, and a 3.73 12 bolt. Everything else is an option. No A/C or auto trans. If it has a tach, it should have a 6K redline. Original tire pressure sticker should be for E70-15 tires. Speedometer cable exits on the right side of the steering column. There's more info to be had, but this will give you a start to weed out the obvious fakes.

A real Z with real documentation, especially a rust-free Los Angeles, or Norwood build, will bring a premium price.

Like all of the muscle cars back in the day, they really weren't that fast stock. Save some money and find a nice clone with a 383 small block. Easy to get 450 horse from a 10:1 pump gas everyday driver with a lot more torque than the 302 makes.

 

[Richard Cranium]

The 69 Z28 is a sharp car, but I'd rather have a 69 Trans Am.

 

[chargervert]

If I remember correctly all 69 Z/28 cars were 4 speed manual transmission equipped,there were no automatic Z/28 cars built.

 

[BB BELLA]

I agree with finding a nice driver and don't worry about the numbers! your buying this for another purpose not an investment or maybe your truly buying for yourself!

 

[AR67GTX]

If I remember correctly all 69 Z/28 cars were 4 speed manual transmission equipped,there were no automatic Z/28 cars built.

True until 1970 when the 350 LT1 Z28 came out. Then an auto became available.

 

[oldkimmer]

One thing to remember is when u pay that stupid money for it that when u sell it someone will pay u stupider money for it. Kim

 

[Nxcoupe]

I've owned 5 of them. Was really into camaros back in the day. What year are you looking for exactly?
Edit: I see you said 69. First off it will have front disc brakes std. Cold air hood and console gauges were optional. Engine should have a DZ stamped on the front ID pad. Always had a 12 bolt rear. Easiest id is look at the factory tire size sticker, it should say E70 15, only car to come with those was the Z28. Any other questions ask.

 

[DynaBro]

Out of the 20K 69 Z/28 Camaros built, there are about 75K left on the road today.

Only the Norwood cars had the X33 or X77 codes. No info on the cowl tag for Los Angeles cars. Restamps, fake cowl tags, Protecto Plates, and documentation are out there.

There should be a single 3/8" fuel line, four leaf rear springs, power front disc brakes, four speed, and a 3.73 12 bolt. Everything else is an option. No A/C or auto trans. If it has a tach, it should have a 6K redline. Original tire pressure sticker should be for E70-15 tires. Speedometer cable exits on the right side of the steering column. There's more info to be had, but this will give you a start to weed out the obvious fakes.

A real Z with real documentation, especially a rust-free Los Angeles, or Norwood build, will bring a premium price.

Like all of the muscle cars back in the day, they really weren't that fast stock. Save some money and find a nice clone with a 383 small block. Easy to get 450 horse from a 10:1 pump gas everyday driver with a lot more torque than the 302 makes.

Clearly you are the man. Tough to disagree with this advice given the data. Feels more likely to get burnt on looking for a good deal than pony up for a nice clone, of which there are many. Thank you.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Out of the 20K 69 Z/28 Camaros built, there are about 75K left on the road today.

Only the Norwood cars had the X33 or X77 codes. No info on the cowl tag for Los Angeles cars. Restamps, fake cowl tags, Protecto Plates, and documentation are out there.

There should be a single 3/8" fuel line, four leaf rear springs, power front disc brakes, four speed, and a 3.73 12 bolt. Everything else is an option. No A/C or auto trans. If it has a tach, it should have a 6K redline. Original tire pressure sticker should be for E70-15 tires. Speedometer cable exits on the right side of the steering column. There's more info to be had, but this will give you a start to weed out the obvious fakes.

A real Z with real documentation, especially a rust-free Los Angeles, or Norwood build, will bring a premium price.

Like all of the muscle cars back in the day, they really weren't that fast stock. Save some money and find a nice clone with a 383 small block. Easy to get 450 horse from a 10:1 pump gas everyday driver with a lot more torque than the 302 makes.

I agree, a stock 302 with a 3.73 gear was a turd. I used a 4.30 or 4.56 to wake them up. I liked mine, but sold my last one to buy a 70 RR 440 6 pack and never looked back.
Tons of clones out there that have more power, yet give the look and feel of an original car.