The dreaded “ticking time bomb” factory Ammeter

[Nacho-RT74]

well I have being running 80 amps alt ( althought it got a decal saying is 100 amps, but seriouslly doub it, changed for the smaller pulley too ) into a 40 amps amm system with the correct bulkhead upgrade FOR YEARS on a daily driver car ( REALLY daily driver ) with AC, halogen headlamps and my ammeter is quite peacefully death centered 85% of the time ( using A/C, lights... and sometimes even wipers but as far AC is on low speed ), cool and safe. And sooner or later will upgrade it for a more powerfull alt to be able to run mid or high AC speed with wipers and lights, stopped at a traffic light and I'm confident on my system.

but.... you don't trust on my experience nor my words. Maybe I don't have a Car in fact and just like to make diagrams and explanations for fun to get the comunity confused LOL!!! You are saying more less what I have done on my car is actually a fake!

I just can say, I'm not inventing my proceedment. Is not an imagination product, is an experienced, tested and daily applied and running setup.

Untill those who don't believe it prove it by yourself. But maybe need to be brave to make it LOL

I'm not saying on YOUR SETUP will be better keep it or not, but as mentioned by 72RoadrunnerGTX, on 80-90% of the cases, this kind of care and upgrades are quite enough. But the red flags jumping out around happilly are more than the reasoning opinions based on actual experiences and not just fears coming from the unknown ( as usually all the fears come from ) LOL.

I'd like just to keep stopping the red flags from where they are not necesary

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I vote that we start a few more ammeter threads... lol

I'm begining to just copy and paste ( more than I was making LOL )

 

[Nacho-RT74]

And by the way, what's the "best oil" to use in my ammeter?

depending on the alt output, could be this:

LOL

 

[Nacho-RT74]

@72RoadrunnerGTX

You're still pushing the idea that people who don't like ammeter are just dumb? What an ***.

dumbs are those who DON'T WANT/CARE to understand still with the facts around, no those who don't understand

( not saying you just in case, but in general, on any kind of topic, life area )

 

[MoparGuy68]

@Triple Black 73
Wow, this is the first post I've seen from you since I registered on this forum! You are the famous Anti-Ammeter guy! I've read all your old posts!

Maybe your 73 has a sound system like this installed in it!?

I'm delving into my own Chargeless Charger's electrical problems, and fried bulkhead connectors. I can't even drive my car because i don't have an engine wiring harness in it anymore. My ammeter gauge was still working when I removed the engine harness. The gauge is what confirmed that my battery was never getting charged, not a single amp of current going into the battery.

I'm anxious to see whether my ammeter's terminals will show any signs of overheating once I can get up under the dash to take a look at it. My Alternator BATT terminal at the bulkhead connector is burnt toast! Fried to the point that I don't think any electricity will flow through it. Which would explain why my battery never gets charged.

I got an old extra Rallye dash with my car when I bought it. So I removed the dreaded Ammeter gauge from that one, to closely examine it. Zero evidence of overheating and rock solid terminal studs! It will be interesting to see how the one in my car compares to it..

 

[kiwigtx]

I vote that we start a few more ammeter threads... lol

Personally I like to see all the ideas come from different people (even if some of you are nutcases) and sift through them to make my own decisions. But I'm only an Electrician....so what do I know?

 

[Crackedback]

Your car, your choice. If you want to run the ammeter, have at it. If you don't, have at it.

To say that an ammeter isn't or never been an issue in any car is just not true. Have any of your 40+ year old harnesses been totally unwrapped and inspected for corrosion within the insulation? I'll say highly unlikely. Same as most that haven't looked at the cluster insulators.

Some don't want an ammeter in the system, simply personal choice. These are always a riot to read.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The deal with the ammeter is not really trying to convince to keep it or not, but take the decisions based on the correct information on how actually works and matching the setup you actually have accordingly. Is not just about keep triggering a red flag without think on how really works the system.

BUT to know the system the first step is understand and accept the ammeter only reads the loads related to the batt, coming or going, not really related to the alt... AND understand amperes are not pushed in by the source no matter how much amperes available we have but sucked out by the devices needs which uses to be constant based on a voltage rate. If ppl doesn't understand that, any kind of explanation after that is just loose the time.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

To say that an ammeter isn't or never been an issue in any car is just not true.
Have any of your 40+ year old harnesses been totally unwrapped and inspected for corrosion within the insulation? I'll say highly unlikely. Same as most that haven't looked at the cluster insulators.

I don’t recall reading/posting any statements like that. To imply that these original passenger car ammeters with well-maintained connections, insulators and wiring, and operating with its design limits, have “spontaneously combusted” or have been the root cause of any “issues” is wrong and is just not true.

All my cars are running original harnesses that have been unwrapped, closely inspected, repairs or modifications as needed to support modern current requirements, wrapped back up for an original appearance.

 

[66 Sat]

Genuine question (not pot-stirring) - after having read through this thread and the other one I'm still a bit confused.

Is my car at risk of a fire when it's parked in my garage?

Original ammeter, new powermaster alternator (not sure of output, maybe 90 Amps), no stereo or anything, just a couple of extra gauges.
I'm not worried so much about it happening when I'm driving as I'd have a chance to put it out, but if it happened at night say while parked, it would cause a lot of collateral damage to my other cars, office etc. Should I disconnect the battery when it's not driving to be safe?

 

[dadsbee]

No real risk, but with that said my SOP is to pull the ground cable off EVERY time I park a car in the shop. Something I've done for 30+ years. Positive cable is worth big bucks, it's tightened in place and never touched again. Negative cable is set on and twisted into place by hand. Removed when done driving. Never an issue with clean posts and cables.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Is my car at risk of a fire when it's parked in my garage?
Original ammeter, new powermaster alternator (not sure of output, maybe 90 Amps), no stereo or anything, just a couple of extra gauges.

Absolutely not. It’s a myth

 

[MoparGuy68]

Check out this 1969 Plymouth Fury I Police Car. It's rumored that, back in the day, this exact cop car chased that dilapidated 1971 Hemi Challenger that was recently discovered in a backyard in Tucson. The Challenger has been sold, but this cop car is available sale, also in Tucson!

Why am I bringing this up in the Ammeter thread? Well, check out this Fury's instrument cluster.. 35 Amp Ammeter myth busted! You can clearly see this Cochise County Sheriff's Fury has a factory Ammeter "Alternator" gauge that is marked -60 to +60 Amps! Almost double the mythical, unproved 35 Amp rating that has been stated in this thread. It also has a "certified" 140 mph speedometer. They weren't ******* around with this Fury!

I bet it chased down a lot of bad hombres in it's prime!