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The Elephant In The Room: unloading the load from a B-body.

Heck of a good idea. The seal must run right next to the ring.
Dr. Diff also said that the inner factory seal should seal the whole thing, but like most of us, I've been busy with a few things and haven't felt like going into the axle to work it out. When I go either with a new seal or the gooey stuff, I'm going to take a look at the tube vent to make sure all is free and breathing.

On subject, that is a great amount of weight shaved off the whole package. I would also think that shock adjustment will be had, plus the fact that you will be running a whole new set up. Good luck and congrats.
 
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Heck of a good idea. The seal must run right next to the ring.
Yes . Measured up and made this tool for easy fitment and correct depth .
The paste is teflon paste , ARP also sell/use it .

Tex

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Which exact silicone did you use? I gather you fixed the problem. I've had the same problem with one side of the G bearings.
Ultra black,,yes it stopped but then the other side started weeping oil also. so i ended up doing that 1 also. rearend is well vented with a K&N type filter extended up by a hose. this particular housing does Not have an inner seal boss. who ever narrowed and installed the dana 60 housing got it from who knows where. so far no more leaks.
 
Ultra black,,yes it stopped but then the other side started weeping oil also. so i ended up doing that 1 also. rearend is well vented with a K&N type filter extended up by a hose. this particular housing does Not have an inner seal boss. who ever narrowed and installed the dana 60 housing got it from who knows where. so far no more leaks.
Thanx a lot. I've got some work cut out for me later before Spring.
 
I’m going to need some interior panels, door and dash.
What are you guys using for aluminum sheet as far as thickness and alloy?
 
You can buy 4x8 sheets of .030" at local metal supliers. Or buy trailer siding. Colored on one side. Natuaral aluminum on the other. Amazing how stiff it gets with a few ribs. I have my 12 lb fans mounted with it, 12 years.
Doug
 
Fellas and Gals. I found an incredible amount of weight loss.................Plastic air valve covers vs chrome steel covers.
At the end of the day, it's all about the ounces, especially when it has to do with rotating weight. LOL.

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I like FlowKooler water pumps because they are lighter than OE stuff, mostly due to using an aluminum impeller. I saved just over 11 ounces by switching pumps. Another thing, the fan/pulley hub design makes a small difference as well. The "X" shaped hubs average 2 1/2 ounces lighter than the solid round ones. All of this is rotating weight. Throw in some lighter fasteners and you shave nearly a pound of rotating weight.
You can cut weight is some unusual places and like Lee says, it all adds up.
 
I like FlowKooler water pumps because they are lighter than OE stuff, mostly due to using an aluminum impeller. I saved just over 11 ounces by switching pumps. Another thing, the fan/pulley hub design makes a small difference as well. The "X" shaped hubs average 2 1/2 ounces lighter than the solid round ones. All of this is rotating weight. Throw in some lighter fasteners and you shave nearly a pound of rotating weight.
You can cut weight is some unusual places and like Lee says, it all adds up.
Yup....remove 2ozs in 8 places is a pound gone.
 
I like FlowKooler water pumps because they are lighter than OE stuff, mostly due to using an aluminum impeller. I saved just over 11 ounces by switching pumps. Another thing, the fan/pulley hub design makes a small difference as well. The "X" shaped hubs average 2 1/2 ounces lighter than the solid round ones. All of this is rotating weight. Throw in some lighter fasteners and you shave nearly a pound of rotating weight.
You can cut weight is some unusual places and like Lee says, it all adds up.
Never thought of the solid round hub base against an X'd unit. Good fat cutting there. My flowKooler is an early model. I'll have to go look at it out of curiosity. There's been high strength Titanium fasteners holding the aluminum pulley on for years. No mechanical fan though. Speaking of fans, the lightest fan that I ran back in the late eighties was that plastic flex fan made by ??????. It worked okay even without a shroud.
 
I need to rebuild my front end,ball joints,control arm bushings etc.
I picked up a pair of aluminum strut bars that I want to install.Looking for opinions to stay steel or install the aluminum??

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I picked up a pair of the aluminum strut rods for my 65 Belvedere. I am still in the process of rebuilding the front suspension so I can't really comment on them much. I can tell you that the stock strut rods weighed 6.4 pounds for the pair (including hardware) and the aluminum strut rods come in at 3.1 pounds for the pair. You could save a little more weight by replacing the steel nuts and washers with titanium (or maybe aluminum?).
 
I picked up a pair of the aluminum strut rods for my 65 Belvedere. I am still in the process of rebuilding the front suspension so I can't really comment on them much. I can tell you that the stock strut rods weighed 6.4 pounds for the pair (including hardware) and the aluminum strut rods come in at 3.1 pounds for the pair. You could save a little more weight by replacing the steel nuts and washers with titanium (or maybe aluminum?).
The car has aluminum strut rods that look just like the stockers since perhaps 2002 or whenever they first hit the market.
Aluminum coned washers up front to cap 'em off with titanium nuts. Saved the same amount that Badvert mentioned.
 
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