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The Elephant In The Room: unloading the load from a B-body.

fullmetaljacket said:
You old dirty B@$+@rd.
Click to expand...

I'll just leave this here.
IMG_2194.JPG


But then...
IMG_6660.jpg


That's grams... do the math.
 
While not sneaky or crafty, I installed a Kirkey aluminum seat in my Duster today. With the cushion/cover the seat is about 13-14lbs. The seat floor brackets are probably a pound each? To finish the job I will need to install a seat back brace and then a harness. Should be around 20 lbs when all is said and done?
IMG_8123.jpg


Unfortunately, I'm not saving a huge amount of weight with the Kirkey since the previous set of high-back bucket bucket seats (out of an '80's Jeep Scrambler) I had were surprisingly light - 22lbs each mounted to '68 S/S seat brackets. In fact, the Jeep seats were even lighter than my A100 seats by a few lbs.

IMG_9668.JPG


Just like the van seats, the Jeep seats are fixed. The original Scrambler seat covers were also breathable with minimal cushion foam to allow them to air dry in case they got wet when out 4 wheeling. I found new vinyl covers for them and they looked like they belonged in the Duster.

Best part is they were free. I used to work at a Jeep dealer and my boss was throwing them out so I took them home.
IMG_9756.JPG


Finished product around 2013.
IMG_0210.JPG


Though they looked cool, the Jeep seats were not terribly safe which is mostly why I switched them out. The S/S brackets are bolted to the bottom of the seat frames with small bolts that would have instantly ripped out in a crash. With the Kirkey, the floor brackets are bolted to the sides of the seat in shear so they are much safer. Plus, the seat back brace will tie it into the roll bar. I'll add one more bolt to each bracket before the final install. Grade 8 fasteners only.

These brackets are made for GM G bodies but they fit the Duster OK.
IMG_8125.jpg


Not sure if/when I will put another seat in. Can't imagine anyone wanting to ride around in this car now.
 
In my opinion as long as the seat doesn't colapse and is firmly attached to the car it doesn't matter. The harness is what holds you in. Yes, there should be some type of head rest. I'm going to a Nex-Gen or Hans next year. But with stock style low back look a likes.
Doug
 
Looking for a 3/8-16x6” titanium hex head bolt. In specific the long one for the alternator! I’ve only found 4.5” long ones.
 
Dodge 330 said:
Looking for a 3/8-16x6” titanium hex head bolt. In specific the long one for the alternator! I’ve only found 4.5” long ones.
Click to expand...
Try this guy on ebay. Tell him what size you need and he will do it. He makes these things to whatever size you need. I have purchased about 5 bolts from him (he only does the 3/8-16)
ALT-Bolt.jpg
 
Dodge 330 said:
Yep, it’s joesnbay. I put in the bolt description above as I couldn’t read his name either. I got a response last night he can do the bolt, so thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Putting in my order today. I've been trying to find a bolt of that size for the same reason. Now if only someone could produce castle head nuts for the front end. I've been chasing those for years. They've got to be right because of obvious reasons.
 
fullmetaljacket said:
Putting in my order today. I've been trying to find a bolt of that size for the same reason. Now if only someone could produce castle head nuts for the front end. I've been chasing those for years. They've got to be right because of obvious reasons.
Click to expand...
330, if you spoke to him, can you send me a DM with his contact info?
 
I had one made that was 6 inches long. Titanium bolt weighed in at 1.8 ounces. The polished stainless steel bolt it replaced weighed 3 ounces.
Your results may vary.
 
Here's the stock 6" long alternator bolt removed and measured. I will weigh it in against the Titanium one once I receive it. Also removing and replacing the distributor hold down bolt sometime soon.

0-1.jpeg
 
fullmetaljacket said:
Here's the stock 6" long alternator bolt removed and measured. I will weigh it in against the Titanium one once I receive it. Also removing and replacing the distributor hold down bolt sometime soon.
Click to expand...
While you're at it might as well replace these fasteners as well;

Fuel pump block off
Distributor clamp and bolt
Oil pan bolts
Intake manifold bolts
Carburetor studs and nuts
Valve cover studs and nuts
Water pump bolts
Timing cover bolts
T-stat housing bolts
Alternator bracket and belt adjuster bolts
Coil bracket bolts
Crank pulley bolts

Probably be an expensive proposition but I bet it'd be several pounds off the front of the car if you changed all the non-critical engine fasteners to Ti.

There's also the trans pan, radiator bolts, bellhousing bolts (?) etc... basically whatever fasteners that just hold stuff on.
 
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