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The Elephant In The Room: unloading the load from a B-body.

Here's a thought;
Just leave it in the garage and cap the tube until you need it.
There you go. Great idea. LOL.
Had a race car with no stick....thought 'how dumb' but since oil changes happened often and pretty much the same amount came out that when in, I didn't sweat it anymore.
 
I tend to agree with eliminating the dipstick, especially on a big block where it has to snake through the headers and generally gets in the way when working around that area. When my 340 block was machined I had the port tapped with pipe thread to accept a fitting so I could plug it.

Theoretically, there shouldn't be a need to check the oil level with a high performance engine that's not daily driven. If you see a puddle of oil underneath the car or your pressure gauge goes to zero you obviously have a more immediate issue to deal with.

At one point I did consider running a dipstick/tube setup which could be unscrewed when not needed but it turned out to be more of a PITA than it was worth. This photo shows a compression fitting for that idea but a simple pipe threaded plug is all that's needed.
IMG_2822.JPG
 
I tend to agree with eliminating the dipstick, especially on a big block where it has to snake through the headers and generally gets in the way when working around that area. When my 340 block was machined I had the port tapped with pipe thread to accept a fitting so I could plug it.

Theoretically, there shouldn't be a need to check the oil level with a high performance engine that's not daily driven. If you see a puddle of oil underneath the car or your pressure gauge goes to zero you obviously have a more immediate issue to deal with.

At one point I did consider running a dipstick/tube setup which could be unscrewed when not needed but it turned out to be more of a PITA than it was worth. This photo shows a compression fitting for that idea but a simple pipe threaded plug is all that's needed.
View attachment 1744755
That's a serious fuel pump there buddy.
 
I tend to agree with eliminating the dipstick, especially on a big block where it has to snake through the headers and generally gets in the way when working around that area. When my 340 block was machined I had the port tapped with pipe thread to accept a fitting so I could plug it.

Theoretically, there shouldn't be a need to check the oil level with a high performance engine that's not daily driven. If you see a puddle of oil underneath the car or your pressure gauge goes to zero you obviously have a more immediate issue to deal with.

At one point I did consider running a dipstick/tube setup which could be unscrewed when not needed but it turned out to be more of a PITA than it was worth. This photo shows a compression fitting for that idea but a simple pipe threaded plug is all that's needed.
View attachment 1744755
Race engines use oil. No way of checking the level is a recipe for disaster. Personally don’t care how much is in the engine itself. But I am picky about pan level. 7qts is safe. 8qts won’t slow it down. 6qts can bounce the gage when getting after the brakes hard. To get there the engine and preoiler need around 11-12qts. Some say change oil often. At $130 for oil and filter we run ours a season. The filter gets cut open at mid season. Useually goes thu around 3qts. Plus 1qt with the 2nd filter. So another $65. So roughly $200 for oil and filters over 100 passes. Been doing this way 12 years, 1100 passes.
Doug
 
Race engines use oil. No way of checking the level is a recipe for disaster. Personally don’t care how much is in the engine itself. But I am picky about pan level. 7qts is safe. 8qts won’t slow it down. 6qts can bounce the gage when getting after the brakes hard. To get there the engine and preoiler need around 11-12qts. Some say change oil often. At $130 for oil and filter we run ours a season. The filter gets cut open at mid season. Useually goes thu around 3qts. Plus 1qt with the 2nd filter. So another $65. So roughly $200 for oil and filters over 100 passes. Been doing this way 12 years, 1100 passes.
Doug
Doug, you have a system for everything. No wonder you win races.
I think it was in an old Direct Connection manual, “ attention to detail is the difference between winning and losing. “

We are fortunate you’re willing to share your secrets.
 
Race engines use oil. No way of checking the level is a recipe for disaster. Personally don’t care how much is in the engine itself. But I am picky about pan level. 7qts is safe. 8qts won’t slow it down. 6qts can bounce the gage when getting after the brakes hard. To get there the engine and preoiler need around 11-12qts. Some say change oil often. At $130 for oil and filter we run ours a season. The filter gets cut open at mid season. Useually goes thu around 3qts. Plus 1qt with the 2nd filter. So another $65. So roughly $200 for oil and filters over 100 passes. Been doing this way 12 years, 1100 passes.
Doug
I couldn't agree with you more D.
I've sometimes noticed a little under a quart low after much driving or dragging overtime and I like to keep that pup filled. Plus with all that I have going on, I could forget to check the level, so that dip stick protruding outward reminds me to take a look for a sense of peace. Also, the oil on the stick itself sometimes can tell you how old or contaminated with other fluids (Gasoline-Water) it may be.
 
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Doug, you have a system for everything. No wonder you win races.
I think it was in an old Direct Connection manual, “ attention to detail is the difference between winning and losing. “

We are fortunate you’re willing to share your secrets.
SHHHEEEEEIIIT, as for myself, I ain't sharing any secrets on this thread. LOL.
 
SHHHEEEEEIIIT, as for myself, I ain't sharing any secrets on this thread. LOL.
We know you’re the sneaky type.

Edit: I mean that as a compliment since I gather your a street racer.

I know you started this thread and have shared plenty.
 
We know you’re the sneaky type.

Edit: I mean that as a compliment since I gather your a street racer.

I know you started this thread and have shared plenty.
We know "What I did last Summer" LOL.
My car is STOCK.
Thank you. Yeah, it's been a long confession.
 
To eliminate the dipstick as a source of crankcase vacuum leaks, I install a sight tube in the pan. Also allows you to see how much oil is in the sump with the engine running..

shopmulesightgauge.jpg


Grant
 
To eliminate the dipstick as a source of crankcase vacuum leaks, I install a sight tube in the pan. Also allows you to see how much oil is in the sump with the engine running..

shopmulesightgauge.jpg


Grant
That smooth shaved look on that Chevrolet block looks to have shaved a few pounds of raw cast iron.
 
To eliminate the dipstick as a source of crankcase vacuum leaks, I install a sight tube in the pan. Also allows you to see how much oil is in the sump with the engine running..

shopmulesightgauge.jpg


Grant
My tube and stick are adapted from a newer Jeep. Stick is O-ringed.
Doug

20210625_080921.jpg
 
This pan has been ballooned, cracked, and punctured × 2. Takes a liking and keeps on tickin.
Doug

31227.jpeg


31228.jpeg


10823.jpeg


10533.jpeg
 
That smooth shaved look on that Chevrolet block looks to have shaved a few pounds of raw cast iron.

Fuel pump boss is shaved off the other side, you can see an aluminum plug that was Loctited into the fuel pump pushrod hole...

shopmuleblock.jpg


Grant
 
You'll notice the mounts and the outer portion of the core holes has been milled. Along with all the Hemi portion of the deck on this Mega Block. Down to a swvelt 275 lbs.
Doug

20220228_153318.jpg


20220211_135718.jpg
 
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