padam
Well-Known Member
Here's a thought;Titanium dip stick anyone?
Tempting........... but no, it's a factory steel one believe it or not.
View attachment 1743966
Just leave it in the garage and cap the tube until you need it.
Here's a thought;Titanium dip stick anyone?
Tempting........... but no, it's a factory steel one believe it or not.
View attachment 1743966
There you go. Great idea. LOL.Here's a thought;
Just leave it in the garage and cap the tube until you need it.
Here's a thought;
Just leave it in the garage and cap the tube until you need it.
Had a race car with no stick....thought 'how dumb' but since oil changes happened often and pretty much the same amount came out that when in, I didn't sweat it anymore.There you go. Great idea. LOL.
That's a serious fuel pump there buddy.I tend to agree with eliminating the dipstick, especially on a big block where it has to snake through the headers and generally gets in the way when working around that area. When my 340 block was machined I had the port tapped with pipe thread to accept a fitting so I could plug it.
Theoretically, there shouldn't be a need to check the oil level with a high performance engine that's not daily driven. If you see a puddle of oil underneath the car or your pressure gauge goes to zero you obviously have a more immediate issue to deal with.
At one point I did consider running a dipstick/tube setup which could be unscrewed when not needed but it turned out to be more of a PITA than it was worth. This photo shows a compression fitting for that idea but a simple pipe threaded plug is all that's needed.
View attachment 1744755
Gates does the heat shrink hose clamps! They are called Power Grip as I recall.Yes, dual Titanium hose clamps. Strong extra insurance and they weigh close to nothing.
Mine is an all aluminum mechanical pump.
I must say though, I do love the color and look of titanium, but this is some NEW news to me. WOW! Technology is bananas these days.Gates does the heat shrink hose clamps! They are called Power Grip as I recall.
Race engines use oil. No way of checking the level is a recipe for disaster. Personally don’t care how much is in the engine itself. But I am picky about pan level. 7qts is safe. 8qts won’t slow it down. 6qts can bounce the gage when getting after the brakes hard. To get there the engine and preoiler need around 11-12qts. Some say change oil often. At $130 for oil and filter we run ours a season. The filter gets cut open at mid season. Useually goes thu around 3qts. Plus 1qt with the 2nd filter. So another $65. So roughly $200 for oil and filters over 100 passes. Been doing this way 12 years, 1100 passes.I tend to agree with eliminating the dipstick, especially on a big block where it has to snake through the headers and generally gets in the way when working around that area. When my 340 block was machined I had the port tapped with pipe thread to accept a fitting so I could plug it.
Theoretically, there shouldn't be a need to check the oil level with a high performance engine that's not daily driven. If you see a puddle of oil underneath the car or your pressure gauge goes to zero you obviously have a more immediate issue to deal with.
At one point I did consider running a dipstick/tube setup which could be unscrewed when not needed but it turned out to be more of a PITA than it was worth. This photo shows a compression fitting for that idea but a simple pipe threaded plug is all that's needed.
View attachment 1744755
Doug, you have a system for everything. No wonder you win races.Race engines use oil. No way of checking the level is a recipe for disaster. Personally don’t care how much is in the engine itself. But I am picky about pan level. 7qts is safe. 8qts won’t slow it down. 6qts can bounce the gage when getting after the brakes hard. To get there the engine and preoiler need around 11-12qts. Some say change oil often. At $130 for oil and filter we run ours a season. The filter gets cut open at mid season. Useually goes thu around 3qts. Plus 1qt with the 2nd filter. So another $65. So roughly $200 for oil and filters over 100 passes. Been doing this way 12 years, 1100 passes.
Doug
I couldn't agree with you more D.Race engines use oil. No way of checking the level is a recipe for disaster. Personally don’t care how much is in the engine itself. But I am picky about pan level. 7qts is safe. 8qts won’t slow it down. 6qts can bounce the gage when getting after the brakes hard. To get there the engine and preoiler need around 11-12qts. Some say change oil often. At $130 for oil and filter we run ours a season. The filter gets cut open at mid season. Useually goes thu around 3qts. Plus 1qt with the 2nd filter. So another $65. So roughly $200 for oil and filters over 100 passes. Been doing this way 12 years, 1100 passes.
Doug
SHHHEEEEEIIIT, as for myself, I ain't sharing any secrets on this thread. LOL.Doug, you have a system for everything. No wonder you win races.
I think it was in an old Direct Connection manual, “ attention to detail is the difference between winning and losing. “
We are fortunate you’re willing to share your secrets.
We know you’re the sneaky type.SHHHEEEEEIIIT, as for myself, I ain't sharing any secrets on this thread. LOL.
We know "What I did last Summer" LOL.We know you’re the sneaky type.
Edit: I mean that as a compliment since I gather your a street racer.
I know you started this thread and have shared plenty.
That smooth shaved look on that Chevrolet block looks to have shaved a few pounds of raw cast iron.To eliminate the dipstick as a source of crankcase vacuum leaks, I install a sight tube in the pan. Also allows you to see how much oil is in the sump with the engine running..
Grant
My tube and stick are adapted from a newer Jeep. Stick is O-ringed.To eliminate the dipstick as a source of crankcase vacuum leaks, I install a sight tube in the pan. Also allows you to see how much oil is in the sump with the engine running..
Grant
Ouch, I see that laceration on the side of that pan. I don't blame you for repairing it as apposed to replacing it.
That smooth shaved look on that Chevrolet block looks to have shaved a few pounds of raw cast iron.