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The Elephant In The Room: unloading the load from a B-body.

I love this paragraph from the new 2nd edition of "We Were The Ramchargers"

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These areas are where it counts to count the ounces.
These spark plug loom brackets (like the one below) which on any given motor can amount to anywhere between 3-6 of them in various lengths and shapes can weigh as much as 1.15 ounces each.

The aluminum version was just under a quarter of an ounce. Darn near an ounce deleted on one bracket alone.
I'll post up a flick of the aluminum bracket in service later this evening and ya'' tell me if you can tell the difference.

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I finally found it, I was moving stuff around in my office and I found this magazine I saved.
Look at the headline to the left, under the Challenger.

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So here's the duplicated aluminum brackets in service. I didn't get to weigh them all but one, but I can guesstimate that a loss of 4-5 ounces in total was realistic. All hand made with the little dimple hole in order for the looms to snap in place. I like my wires neat and separated.

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Believe you me, there are other small and minute trinkets that have yet to be exposed or built, but very limited time researching out on the field and fabricating in the studio prevent me from moving faster to show them. In due time I will show them to y'all.

A friendly reminder that even though all of this seemingly maniacal stuff looks to give worthless returns and achievements to some, especially when most of it is for hiding them in plain sight, I beg to differ.
Trust me when I say that this is more for the love and fun of Hot Rodding, then just going fast.

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A new store bought heavyweight and an old school lightweight bear in the cave.

An aluminum heat vented hinged hood vs an aluminum snorkeling wide snout pinned hood.

15.7" disc rotors, 6-piston Brembos vs 10.5 -2 piston friction iron drum front brakes.

Laminated sensor bubble windshield vs a Lexan lightweight bubble windshield.

What 60 years of technology can bring forth, but the weight differences are astronomical between these two.
One cat is from hell and the other is HELL.

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Every now and then for peace of mind, a 30 + point check ritual takes a look at crucial parts such as these aluminum lug nuts. They are still in excellent shape. A little cleansing and a dab of anti-seize and on they go again. They are types that some teams use on circle track cars which usually use titanium lug nuts.

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fullmetaljacket said:
Every now and then for peace of mind, a 30 + point check ritual takes a look at crucial parts such as these aluminum lug nuts. They are still in excellent shape. A little cleansing and a dab of anti-seize and on they go again. They are types that some teams use on circle track cars which usually use titanium lug nuts.
Click to expand...
ALUMINUM lug nuts!??? Who knew. I might need to look into those.
 
Badvert65 said:
ALUMINUM lug nuts!??? Who knew. I might need to look into those.
Click to expand...
Yeah. Been in use for about 5 years or so. They are super light.
Studs are titanium from the circle track catalog. They bolt on with serrated washers and have nipple tips for ease of wheel engagement.
Front hubs are T-7075 aluminum and were painted cast iron color years back. They need a new coating as of lately.
Note the Ti-6AL-4V titanium backing plate fasteners just visible in the background. Torqued down to factory specs.

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Badvert65 said:
Do the aluminum lugs take any special torque for tightening, or any other special care?
Click to expand...
The lugs nuts are aluminum, they deserve a cleaning of the threads to remove any residue from the anti-seize or any other foreign matter which should not be on the threads anyway. Periodic checking for tightness is a good thing with any lugs. They are checked 3-4 times a year and always right on the mark.
There's always a dab of anti-seize applied when ever they are installed. Never put them on dry.
Tightening is discretionary, but they are tightened just as much as any lug nut.
Some people use impact guns to tighten lugs, it's always been taboo to do that. A good squeeze tightening with a breaker bar works fine on this.
What has to be taken into account is that two different metals have to have a buffer in between them to make peace between them. In other words, the anti-seize ointment is a good buffer that keeps 'em happy.

These are the rear lugs in TI-6AL-4V titanium on steel studs.

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PERHAPS..... March aluminum under drive pulleys are probably a little more heavier than the stock steel pulleys, but freeing up horsepower by under driving the water pump, alternator and power steering (if you even are stubborn enough to run one) may be more advantageous than loosing that small amount of weight.
I'm a novice when it comes to electric anything, but from what I hear, under driving has its pros and cons. Slower pump speed may actually bring more heat to the motor just as slowing the alternator down may bring less power to your electrical items such as electric fans, fuel pumps, lights and ignition systems.
The trade off is up to the individual.

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Dual rad hose clamps?? :eek: :lol:

My personal thoughts is the weight of an electric waterpump is negligible compared to the power loss of mechanical
 
Aluminum oil pan coming this Winter, but hold the horses.
Just because its made out of aluminum doesn't necessarily mean that it will be lighter than the steel one in place right now.
If I am not wrong, the extra beefy pan rails where the pan fastens to the motor are quite heavy because of their bulk. A steel pan may actually be lighter. Correct me if I'm wrong anyone.
I think the only benefits of an aluminum pan may be the custom baffling trays and or doors to control the petro along with the ability to possibly help the motor rid itself of heat faster and better.
I will add pictures of my existing steel pan later tonight.
 
Mine is heavier than a tin pan for sure.
Doug
 
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