2blader
Well-Known Member
Not a factory seal holder. Have a annoed blue Mopar one and a fast fish unit. TBH I do not think anything in this Barton engine is a factory part except maybe a replacement block.
The Official Rear Main Seal replacement thread
- Thread starter themechanic
- Start date
2blader
Well-Known Member
BTW thanks for all the help. It is greatly appreciated. I went so far as to check the oil galley plugs in the back of the block. Yea, that far.
2blader
Well-Known Member
Whelp trying a BEST Rope seal while in the car. Yea, I know. Will let ya know hoe it goes and if it goes well a step by step after I am done.
Nevada dan
Well-Known Member
Sorry about the gap in response I’ve been busy
I miss spoke , I meant the retainer not the main cap
Like someone else was pointing out The retainer can bind on the bolts and cause leaks
I miss spoke , I meant the retainer not the main cap
Like someone else was pointing out The retainer can bind on the bolts and cause leaks
2blader
Well-Known Member
No worries. It is called life. Both retainers that I have are clearanced. I have a few other ideas and will report back when I have more info.
Doorkicker
Well-Known Member
@2blader ... I'm hanging on your every word. I'm in the process of putting in a seal. Engine in the car, everything torn down and clean. Now just waiting to get up the nerve to put it back together. Really interested in how you're making out.
2blader
Well-Known Member
LOL hang tight as I am having issues. What seal are you using? Scott
2blader
Well-Known Member
Whelp it looks like I have it licked. I will write up a long response later on. The short one is I used the anno blue MOPAR retainer, Fel pro 2 piece seal, and did not use the side seals. I used the RIGHT STUFF where needed. I also removed .012 from the top of the retainer. I read somebody tried it and was at the last thing to try. Also with the way the retainer can move around I made two alignment pins from bolts. If you remove the rear main cap you can move the retainer up and down to see where your retainer must be for the seals to align. Mine had to be pushed all the way forward and then tightened down. Ran the car 20 minutes pulled the scattershield off and the flywheel and it was dry as a bone. Next is to put it back together and drive it. Hopefully it stays that way.
2blader
Well-Known Member
Also for those without a milling machine to remove the .012 of aluminum you can use wet dry sand paper 400 grit, wd40 for lube. I have a heavy piece of steel that is flat I used with some strong magnets to keep the paper flat. Then just move the retainer side to side until the proper amount is removed. I checked many many times to make sure it was square and correct with a digital caliper. The small magnets are an awesome addition in the shop. I use them to hang a plastic garbage bag under the crank to keep all the oil dripping on the floor. KEEP track of how many you use so you can make sure NONE moved onto a crankshaft counter weight or something. The blue pins help with installation of the one piece gasket and pan. Screw them into the pan bolt holes and then the gasket snaps up and then the pan. They keep everything aligned and free your hands from holding stuff up. Last pic is of applicators I get from amazon. These help in cleaning in tight places like the upper seal cavity and also applying sealant neatly. I use them all the time even for applying a nice even amount of grease or oil on something. Be careful with the magnets they are no joke as they snap tight like you can never imagine and can give ya a blood blister. NOT for kids. Magnets are from Amazon.
2blader
Well-Known Member
In short the BEST rope seal is a great item and well made. I did drop the crank a tad and got the seal in and trimmed-YUP I did. In the end the engine spun the seal. Odd even with the pin. It was tight and after seeing that installation tool that may be the trick to PACK it tight. I tried but didn’t make it work on my first time and went back to the regular seal types.
Terry1213
Member
I got mine from Indy Cyl Heads. Works fine. This may have already been said but remember the main seal can only go in one way. The raised edges go toward the front of the motor.
El.Padrino
Well-Known Member
I am sick of it..Viton seals: leak, fastfish one piece: leak. Used the factory retainer.
Any successful attempt on installing a rope seal with engine in the car?
I know there's a video on youtube doing one with crank on an engine stand..but in car another story.
Any successful attempt on installing a rope seal with engine in the car?
I know there's a video on youtube doing one with crank on an engine stand..but in car another story.
Terry1213
Member
I posted a response to this post earlier and now I am speaking from my experience. Stay with the original rear main seal housing. I bought a billet aluminum housing and had nothing but leaks. I went back to the original with the Fel-Pro rear and side seals and it's fine now. Guess Chrysler knew what they were doing.
Terry1213
Member
I would like to correct myself. My billet aluminum rear seal holder leaked. I suggest staying with the original holder. Now the screw-in guides it came with are good. You can make some. I used them to guide in and center the original housing. Works just fine now.
Grind a little off nubs they've been known to hit main cap. Not often but it happens, don't grind into bolt bottoms.
Doorkicker
Well-Known Member
Yes you can change the rear seal with the engine in the car... I've done to several of mine. While technically not always necessary, but it's typically easier to remove the oil pan once you drop the drag link. Anyway, it's totally doable... it's just a bit of a tight space.
El.Padrino
Well-Known Member
I did all the measuring and "mods" to my factory retainer (advised in this thread and from other forums), double checked clearances... Really don't know what I can do here else. It just seems like either you are lucky and/or lucky and get the right seal too.
@Doorkicker I was specifically asking for a rope seal install in car. I did all "normal" rear main seals in car. The rope seal seems hard to get in, that's why I am asking if it can be done from underneath
@Doorkicker I was specifically asking for a rope seal install in car. I did all "normal" rear main seals in car. The rope seal seems hard to get in, that's why I am asking if it can be done from underneath
Butch Harley
Well-Known Member
Anyone have tips for doing a seal with engine in car? THANKS in advance!
JG71B
Well-Known Member
There are a couple mentioned if you skim through the posts, I'm about to do this myself and I see just as much work if not easier to just pull the motor considering I have a windage tray also. Rather do that than lay on my back for the next 3 days trying to get oil pan bolts off and drag links
Last edited:
KurtfromLQ
New Member
Those using windage trays... go to Summit or Jegs and get one of these... Summit Racing SUM-G2340 Summit Racing™ Molded Gasket Windage Trays | Summit Racing
That one is for a stroker. They also have one for a stock stroke.
This unit is far superior than using two gaskets with a modern "o- ring" type of gasket.
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