The return of MAXIMVS...

[Snook]

Updates:
- Got the new early style turn signal switch today. Went to install it and the blade connectors pulled right off the wires. WTF. Inspected it and saw that the connectors were not properly crimped. See pics. Luckily I had some spare connectors on hand and a good open barrel crimper. That ate up some precious time. I'll install it tomorrow. This the eBay auction I sourced it from, I let the seller know about it. Plymouth 1962-1963 Brand New Turn Signal Switch TS102E Replaces Mopar 2258700 | eBay

Chuck (snook)

 

[davek]

those wires with the tape look scary that you posted

 

[Snook]

those wires with the tape look scary that you posted

Yeah, not impressed but it'll be OK with new connectors. Materials are fine (other than the tan packing tape), workmanship is suspect though.

Chuck (snook)

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

sweet 63 , i've got an old racer turned street/strip .steve reynolds set a ahra record with it in 73 running a 383/auto/8 3/4 re 4.89's all steal car went 10.73 . i have no pics of that trip down thye strip or of the car as steve owned it , but steve said he ran momo rims on it for that record . i run it with vintage american torq thrust magnesiums

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- I managed to find a REALLY nice red steering wheel to replace my wrecked one with - this is a RARE occurrence. It's not new looking which is what I was looking for as a new one would make the rest of my interior look like ****. Not cheap but exactly what I was looking for and saves me a bunch of $$$ over having mine restored and looking out of place.
- Removed the steering wheel to replace the turn signal switch. No problem. Couldn't find my new turn signal switch after turning the garage upside down = BIG problem. Broke down and ordered a new TS switch. I know that I'll find the lost switch this week sometime...
- Placed all the small horn switch parts in a plastic bag, was very careful with this... went to move some parts off the peg board and promptly dumped all of that bags contents on the bench, floor and various parts boxes. ARGHH! Located most of them but ended up spending $26 on the horn plate insulated screws...
- Fished the old TS switch out and left a wire to fish the new TS switch leads. My setup is an early 1963 and uses the flat terminals and not the readily available round connectors. Luckily the flat terminals are back in production at $107... ARGHH!
- Had dog duty the rest of the day while the squawk was grocery shopping and that's it for now.
- Oh yeah. Ordered a new Inline Tubes trans line kit. The Fine Lines kit was a horrible fit and I couldn't stand to look at it. I hope this one goes better...

Chuck (snook)

As I figured, I found the 1st turn signal switch in plain sight... D'OH

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

sweet 63 , i've got an old racer turned street/strip .steve reynolds set a ahra record with it in 73 running a 383/auto/8 3/4 re 4.89's all steal car went 10.73 . i have no pics of that trip down thye strip or of the car as steve owned it , but steve said he ran momo rims on it for that record . i run it with vintage american torq thrust magnesiums

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Love the car!

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- Did everybody's favorite job today (NOT). Turn signal switch replacement... what a PITA. See some pics of the after install and the wiring spaghetti mess...
- Got the new (used but in great shape) steering wheel in today, happy with it (but expensive), see pics...
- The dash wiring is not going well. I'm removing all the fresh electrical taping I did, connecting it all up and then might consider taping again. There are NO 1963 Plymouth dash wiring harnesses being reproduced so it's all roll your own at this point in time.

Chuck (snook)

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

i took mine to a hotrod type dash and steering wheel keeping the turn signals with the stock column , and put some original type seats , i put a tribute for my old race partner , he's the one that found the car and built the glass hood i did a mod to get more air to the carbs .

 

[Snook]

i took mine to a hotrod type dash and steering wheel keeping the turn signals with the stock column , and put some original type seats , i put a tribute for my old race partner , he's the one that found the car and built the glass hood i did a mod to get more air to the carbs .

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Digging it! Old school at its finest. I thought about doing that but my push button setup is still in good shape for now. Yours looks great!

Chuck (snook)

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

well steve reynolds change the trans out for a later model type 727 , we still run the same trans he did the record with , but we are saving his very trick converter that he built , it was the 5k stall he had behind his 8k 383 that went record . i didn't get the factory typewriter buttons . i think it would look better with some factory type carpet . pm

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

the plan is to hotrod mw n 4spd this 63 fury ht , but its typewrite shifter works great . i could stay auto . it will get a set of vintage american torq thrust's or 200s's

 

[Snook]

Pushbutton trans works good, always blows peoples mind when they can't find the column or floor shifter. Most folks have never seen a typewriter shifter. Your Fury looks like a solid start. Let me know if you want to sell the pushbutton stuff.

Chuck (snook)

 

[POMONAMISSEL]

well i've still got my 57 n 64 d100 with a pushbuttons

 

[Snook]

Updates:
1) Been at at a standstill for days but managed to get the dash wiring harness sorted out. Install this weekend.
2) That's it...

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- Just about got the factory wiring sorted out.
- Got the head lights, tail lights, brake pressure switch, and line lock wired in.
- Engine would not rollover with the key but does roll over when jumped at the starter relay. The old starter relay had an open coil (I believe this relay was original to the car); the new relay coil measures 23.9 ohms. You can diagnose a dead auto trans starter relay open or shorted coil by taking an ohmmeter and go between terminal 'G' (neutral bypass switch) and terminal 'I' (ignition, from the ignition switch). On a manual trans car, go from relay case ground to the 'I' terminal. Car rolls over with the key now, all is good. I attached some pics, in the last one you can see where the coil lead has corroded open. Relay contacts were in great shape, no burning or pitting.
- Going to keep working on the wiring tonight.
- Plan is to get the car to the shop for the D60 gear change, spool removal, new Trak-Lok installed and the axle bearings and screw in studs replaced.
- After it gets back from the shop, it's off to the paint and body shop for some minor dent/ding fixes, panel gap adjustments and a fresh coat of WW1.
- Once all the stuff gets done, it gets a new dark red headliner to replace the dingy white one I installed 20 years ago.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Nxcoupe]

Updates:
- Just about got the factory wiring sorted out.
- Got the head lights, tail lights, brake pressure switch, and line lock wired in.
- Engine would not rollover with the key but does roll over when jumped at the starter relay. The old starter relay had an open coil (I believe this relay was original to the car); the new relay coil measures 23.9 ohms. You can diagnose a dead auto trans starter relay open or shorted coil by taking an ohmmeter and go between terminal 'G' (neutral bypass switch) and terminal 'I' (ignition, from the ignition switch). On a manual trans car, go from relay case ground to the 'I' terminal. Car rolls over with the key now, all is good. I attached some pics, in the last one you can see where the coil lead has corroded open. Relay contacts were in great shape, no burning or pitting.
- Going to keep working on the wiring tonight.
- Plan is to get the car to the shop for the D60 gear change, spool removal, new Trak-Lok installed and the axle bearings and screw in studs replaced.
- After it gets back from the shop, it's off to the paint and body shop for some minor dent/ding fixes, panel gap adjustments and a fresh coat of WW1.
- Once all the stuff gets done, it gets a new dark red headliner to replace the dingy white one I installed 20 years ago.

Chuck (snook)

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View attachment 1366026

Going to fix it and put it back on?

 

[Snook]

Going to fix it and put it back on?

Nope, it's toast. The new one looks like a quality piece. It's Standard PN# SR102

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- Replaced the crappy Fine Lines trans lines with Inline Tube lines. Not perfect due to the use of a thicker Griffin radiator but with some cutting, bending and re-flaring came out OK.
- MAXIMVS is slowly coming to life electrically. Got the wiper motor working and it even has functional parking.
- Replaced all 4 headlights, works great including the outside high beams when actuated.
- Got all the radiator dual electric fan wiring done - these things really move the air!
- Should finish up the wiring tomorrow if time permits and then it's off for a maiden test drive after all the upgrades and changes. God willing...

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- Got the wiring pretty much sorted out. Right turn signal is not flashing yet, still working on that. I had to add a ground to the right rear tail light housing to get that RH side brake light to work but it's functional now.
- Got the fuel line at the engine secured. Without a fuel pump in place it was just floating there. Fabbed up a bracket and it isn't going anywhere and looks good.
- Used the MSD PN# 8841 spacer set for 8-8.5mm wires, these things are great and easy install. Really cleaned up the spark plug wire routing and separations. I attached some pics.
- Got the better condition steering wheel installed with a nice horn ring/lever and center cap.
- Cleaned up the under dash wiring, looks OK
- Applied the new 426 Stage II decals to the valve covers.
- Off to the shop for the D60 rear gear change out from 4.56 and spool to 4.10 and Powr-Lok sure grip and new green axle bearing upgrade this week.
- Going for a front end alignment at the local Mopar dealer once the gear change is completed - they seem to be excited about it.
- Simpson racing cam-lock harness still fits me but I need to pick up a passenger side harness.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- Car is going to the shop for the D60 gear change (4.56 to 4.10) and spool exchange with a Powr-Lok sure grip on this Monday, flatbed is scheduled to be here early Monday for the trip to the shop. Going to get the exhaust done at the same time at the shop.
- Eyeballed the front end alignment and tightened everything down for now. Will need a good front end alignment done next week. Also got the wheel lugs torqued to 100 ft lbs.
- Working tomorrow on getting the car running reliably and will take it up and down the street a few times to run through the trans and check the brakes. I live in a country setting, so it's safe to do out here in the boonies. Also adjusted the emergency brakes, so they will be on tap if I need them.
- Got the new 62-65 door handles in from Trim Parts - they are things of beauty and Mopar licensed, really nice pieces. Also getting the sill plate set (4 pieces) in as mine are roached; they're coming from Classic but they're Trim Parts as well.
- The new RCI 15 gallon fuel cell fuel level sending unit is bad; Summit is sending me a replacement gratis.
- Fired the car up a while ago and had some oil leaking from the drivers side valve cover. Not unexpected and tightened up the valve covers, they were not tight, we'll see if this fixes it. The 4 bolt valve covers are notorious for leaks. Car fired right up and idled wickedly, going to sound good through some decent mufflers but sounds great with open headers.
- Labelled the switch panel so I don't forget what's what, I'll do a cleaner job once I get everything sorted out, I took a pic, see attached.

Chuck (snook)