- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
With these fenderwell headers, the starter is nowhere close to the headers, one of the nice things about FW headers.
Chuck (snook)
The return of MAXIMVS...
- Thread starter Snook
- Start date
With these fenderwell headers, the starter is nowhere close to the headers, one of the nice things about FW headers.
Chuck (snook)
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Updates:
- Installed new 4 post Moroso shutoff switch ( Moroso 74108 Moroso Battery Disconnect Switches | Summit Racing ) to accommodate new 1 wire 100A alternator. If anyone needs or wants a 2 connector Moroso shutoff switch in great condition, the first one to claim it can have for free.
- My brake lines are a visual mess, I can't accept my own work (sad isn't it?). I will be doing aesthetic rework until I can not be embarrassed by my own work. As a result, I invested in a S.U.R.&R. PN# PFT409 flaring tool for on the car rework: SUR&R » PFT409 to not put material to waste and try to salvage what I can. This tool will satisfy my needs probably until I pass from this mortal coil. I also bought the 37* dies to go with it. I don't need two tools, so I will be selling my Eastwood pro flaring tool with both 45* & 37* (AN and JIC) dies - this tool worked great but I want an on car tool. The Eastwood uses a vice mount for off car use and is great for fabricators: Eastwood Pro Brake Tubing Flaring Tool with 45 and 37 Degree Die Set
- Terminated and ran the 1/0 battery power cable and #6AWG 100A alternator cable to the engine compartment. It looks like **** IMO so I'm trying to make it look right and technically correct.
- All the old race car wiring is out of the car, what a mess. In the process of rewiring.
Edit: Just so folks know, neither the Eastwood or S.U.R.&R. PN# PFT409 flaring tools will work with stainless; SS is just too hard and will damage the dies. I tried the Eastwood on SS when I got it and wrecked the 3/16 turret, I have a replacement (easily changed out) on order.
Chuck (snook)
- Installed new 4 post Moroso shutoff switch ( Moroso 74108 Moroso Battery Disconnect Switches | Summit Racing ) to accommodate new 1 wire 100A alternator. If anyone needs or wants a 2 connector Moroso shutoff switch in great condition, the first one to claim it can have for free.
- My brake lines are a visual mess, I can't accept my own work (sad isn't it?). I will be doing aesthetic rework until I can not be embarrassed by my own work. As a result, I invested in a S.U.R.&R. PN# PFT409 flaring tool for on the car rework: SUR&R » PFT409 to not put material to waste and try to salvage what I can. This tool will satisfy my needs probably until I pass from this mortal coil. I also bought the 37* dies to go with it. I don't need two tools, so I will be selling my Eastwood pro flaring tool with both 45* & 37* (AN and JIC) dies - this tool worked great but I want an on car tool. The Eastwood uses a vice mount for off car use and is great for fabricators: Eastwood Pro Brake Tubing Flaring Tool with 45 and 37 Degree Die Set
- Terminated and ran the 1/0 battery power cable and #6AWG 100A alternator cable to the engine compartment. It looks like **** IMO so I'm trying to make it look right and technically correct.
- All the old race car wiring is out of the car, what a mess. In the process of rewiring.
Edit: Just so folks know, neither the Eastwood or S.U.R.&R. PN# PFT409 flaring tools will work with stainless; SS is just too hard and will damage the dies. I tried the Eastwood on SS when I got it and wrecked the 3/16 turret, I have a replacement (easily changed out) on order.
Chuck (snook)
Last edited:
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Been covered up with work, so the going is slow right now but some progress.
Updates:
- Bodywork and paint on the hood and deck lid is ongoing at the body shop, they say it will be ready by this upcoming Friday.
- Sanded the areas in the engine compartment and trunk area where I had mounted the Dzus fastener bases 20 years ago - cursing myself the whole time. I'll bondo the drill holes and prime and then touch up when I pick up the hood and deck lid from the body shop. They're giving me some touch up paint from what they're using.
- Ordered a new MSD 6AL Digital and brake light pressure switch from summit, should be here this week. Also ordered a billet brake line block to use the pressure switch - I'm getting away from the mechanical pedal mounted brake light switch.
- Started the rebuild of the gauge panels and rewiring.
- I'm going to be listing a bunch of extra parts and tools that I won't be needing in the for sale sections. The $$$ will go towards a new stroker rotating assembly and machine work.
Chuck (snook)
Updates:
- Bodywork and paint on the hood and deck lid is ongoing at the body shop, they say it will be ready by this upcoming Friday.
- Sanded the areas in the engine compartment and trunk area where I had mounted the Dzus fastener bases 20 years ago - cursing myself the whole time. I'll bondo the drill holes and prime and then touch up when I pick up the hood and deck lid from the body shop. They're giving me some touch up paint from what they're using.
- Ordered a new MSD 6AL Digital and brake light pressure switch from summit, should be here this week. Also ordered a billet brake line block to use the pressure switch - I'm getting away from the mechanical pedal mounted brake light switch.
- Started the rebuild of the gauge panels and rewiring.
- I'm going to be listing a bunch of extra parts and tools that I won't be needing in the for sale sections. The $$$ will go towards a new stroker rotating assembly and machine work.
Chuck (snook)
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Updates:
- Picking up the hood, core support upper frame and decklid from the body shop this upcoming Monday and installing the same day. Will look good with all the trim and short spear and medallion mounted.
- Filled and primed the holes from the old race car fiberglass pins and Dzus base plates today.
- Installed the deck lid weather stripping today. Looks good.
- Finishing the wiring this weekend.
- Finishing the brake lines this weekend.
- Priming the engine and rolling the engine over with the starter if I have the time this weekend. Getting close to firing the engine.
Chuck (snook)
- Picking up the hood, core support upper frame and decklid from the body shop this upcoming Monday and installing the same day. Will look good with all the trim and short spear and medallion mounted.
- Filled and primed the holes from the old race car fiberglass pins and Dzus base plates today.
- Installed the deck lid weather stripping today. Looks good.
- Finishing the wiring this weekend.
- Finishing the brake lines this weekend.
- Priming the engine and rolling the engine over with the starter if I have the time this weekend. Getting close to firing the engine.
Chuck (snook)
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
As promised, I put together a post that shows how I do battery connections crimps when using high flex 1/0 cable and a tight barrel lug.
Helpful way to fit large 1/0 flexible cable into a 1/0 lug and crimp
Completed 1/0 and installation, see attached pics
Chuck (snook)
Helpful way to fit large 1/0 flexible cable into a 1/0 lug and crimp
Completed 1/0 and installation, see attached pics
Chuck (snook)
Last edited:
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Updates:
- Picking up the body worked and WW1 painted steel hood and deck lid from the body shop this Friday. Will be making the 100 mile round trip twice; just no room to carry both without messing up the freshly painted pieces.
- Moved on to the instrument panel rework and rewiring
- Mounting the new MSD 6AL Digital (PN# 64253 black if it matters, it was what was on hand at Summit) tonight or tomorrow night. I also accidentally bought a new red MSD 6AL Digital (PN# 6425) that I forgot I had made an eBay offer on. Oh well I was planning on picking up a spare but I guess it doesn't matter when you fork the $$$ over - it was a good deal anyways and now I won't have to put it off as I'm prone to do.
- Primed the motor a few minutes ago - constant 80 psi, it'll do. Then I rolled the engine over with the starter - it works. At least now I know that the mini-starter is good but it was working. Me thinks I may have a tad too much compression... too much is better than not enough. No clanging or banging heard, that's a good thing. I calculated right at 11:1 with a 0.051 head gasket and close to zero deck (engine is 0.060" over bore) - the MW heads chambers are a measured 81cc.
- Things will get serious next week...
Chuck (snook)
- Picking up the body worked and WW1 painted steel hood and deck lid from the body shop this Friday. Will be making the 100 mile round trip twice; just no room to carry both without messing up the freshly painted pieces.
- Moved on to the instrument panel rework and rewiring
- Mounting the new MSD 6AL Digital (PN# 64253 black if it matters, it was what was on hand at Summit) tonight or tomorrow night. I also accidentally bought a new red MSD 6AL Digital (PN# 6425) that I forgot I had made an eBay offer on. Oh well I was planning on picking up a spare but I guess it doesn't matter when you fork the $$$ over - it was a good deal anyways and now I won't have to put it off as I'm prone to do.
- Primed the motor a few minutes ago - constant 80 psi, it'll do. Then I rolled the engine over with the starter - it works. At least now I know that the mini-starter is good but it was working. Me thinks I may have a tad too much compression... too much is better than not enough. No clanging or banging heard, that's a good thing. I calculated right at 11:1 with a 0.051 head gasket and close to zero deck (engine is 0.060" over bore) - the MW heads chambers are a measured 81cc.
- Things will get serious next week...
Chuck (snook)
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Updates:
- Picked up the WW1 painted hood and deck lid. No way are they a match for the vintage paint job but that's OK it was what I expected anyway.
- Decided to take high resolution pics of the MAXIMVS graphics and have it preserved with a good framed print. After all, the MAXIMVS graphics are only important to me and are not historically significant and are not significant to anyone else but me and my family.
- Car will be going in for a WW1 paint job without the MAXIMVS graphics. Hard decision but for the best. It will be easier for my survivors to sell that way. After all, we are only renters if the truth be told and acknowledged.
Chuck (snook)
- Picked up the WW1 painted hood and deck lid. No way are they a match for the vintage paint job but that's OK it was what I expected anyway.
- Decided to take high resolution pics of the MAXIMVS graphics and have it preserved with a good framed print. After all, the MAXIMVS graphics are only important to me and are not historically significant and are not significant to anyone else but me and my family.
- Car will be going in for a WW1 paint job without the MAXIMVS graphics. Hard decision but for the best. It will be easier for my survivors to sell that way. After all, we are only renters if the truth be told and acknowledged.
Chuck (snook)
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Updates:
- The Griffin 'Exact Fit' radiator is anything but. I had to drill new holes and 3/8" slots 3/4" up to drop the radiator down enough to clear the bottom of the hood by 3/8". Luckily it was enough to make everything fall in place... so far. The Griffin is FAR from a cheap choice, I'll provide some feedback so they can get it right. It's a nice unit but I should not have had to cut the mounting brackets that much. Had to clearance the lower valance bolts to remove interference between the bolts and radiator bottom tank - a Dremel cut off wheel made short work of it.
- Mounted the repainted upper core support brace and upper grill support and hood brace, went well.
- Adjusted the deck lid to get a better gap but I'm not good with this. It will get sorted when I get the car to the body shop for a re-paint.
- I do like the factory look without the max wedge scoop I have to say. The NOS hood spear and medallion really speak to me. I've attached some rough preliminary pics.
- Jax the new 6 month old Boston Terrier is keeping an eye out on the progress...
Chuck (snook)
- The Griffin 'Exact Fit' radiator is anything but. I had to drill new holes and 3/8" slots 3/4" up to drop the radiator down enough to clear the bottom of the hood by 3/8". Luckily it was enough to make everything fall in place... so far. The Griffin is FAR from a cheap choice, I'll provide some feedback so they can get it right. It's a nice unit but I should not have had to cut the mounting brackets that much. Had to clearance the lower valance bolts to remove interference between the bolts and radiator bottom tank - a Dremel cut off wheel made short work of it.
- Mounted the repainted upper core support brace and upper grill support and hood brace, went well.
- Adjusted the deck lid to get a better gap but I'm not good with this. It will get sorted when I get the car to the body shop for a re-paint.
- I do like the factory look without the max wedge scoop I have to say. The NOS hood spear and medallion really speak to me. I've attached some rough preliminary pics.
- Jax the new 6 month old Boston Terrier is keeping an eye out on the progress...
Chuck (snook)
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Here's the other 6 month old 30 pound (and growing) monster garage monitor...
Chuck (snook)
Chuck (snook)
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Updates:
- Got the MSD 6AL Digital box mounted, no big deal.
- Did some deck lid and hood alignments - I SUCK at this, so it will be sorted out by the body shop when it goes in for paint.
- Been covered up with work on the project I'm contracted to, so little car time...
- Working on the wiring when I can find the time.
Chuck (snook)
- Got the MSD 6AL Digital box mounted, no big deal.
- Did some deck lid and hood alignments - I SUCK at this, so it will be sorted out by the body shop when it goes in for paint.
- Been covered up with work on the project I'm contracted to, so little car time...
- Working on the wiring when I can find the time.
Chuck (snook)
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Updates:
- Made a dent in the Wisconsin project work, so had a little time to do some MAXIMVS work.
- Replaced the newly installed passenger side disc brake line. Turns out that I bought a counterfeit copper nickel (CuPro) brake line kit from an eBay seller. This stuff is NOT CuPro but is in fact copper plated steel line. It's highly magnetic and discolored - a clear sign of not being what was stated to be and it was not as malleable as a real CuPro line should be. This is the link for the bogus stuff: Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing Kit 3/16 OD 25 Foot Coil Roll all Size Fittings | eBay . The 2 kits I ordered from Fine Lines IS CuPro and non-magnetic and bends easily by hand. This is the eBay auction for the good stuff: Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing Kit 3/16 Od 25 Foot Coil Roll All Size Fittings | eBay . It also comes with a bunch of fittings. This replacement was a HUGE PITA.
- I used the S.U.R.R PFT-409 hydraulic flaring tool and it's a winner for on the car work. Basically quick and effortless - not cheap but worth it for the lessened aggravation.
- Secured the steering coupler to the box, that's one less thing I don't need to worry that I forgot about now.
- This transmission line kit is NOT for a 62-64 B-Body: For Plymouth Fury 1962-1964 Transmission Cooler Line 2 Piece-RTC6202OM-CPP | eBay . I'm going to have to rework it completely and THAT is a PITA.
- Laid out the placements for the line lock and front brake billet distribution block.
Chuck (snook)
- Made a dent in the Wisconsin project work, so had a little time to do some MAXIMVS work.
- Replaced the newly installed passenger side disc brake line. Turns out that I bought a counterfeit copper nickel (CuPro) brake line kit from an eBay seller. This stuff is NOT CuPro but is in fact copper plated steel line. It's highly magnetic and discolored - a clear sign of not being what was stated to be and it was not as malleable as a real CuPro line should be. This is the link for the bogus stuff: Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing Kit 3/16 OD 25 Foot Coil Roll all Size Fittings | eBay . The 2 kits I ordered from Fine Lines IS CuPro and non-magnetic and bends easily by hand. This is the eBay auction for the good stuff: Copper Nickel Brake Line Tubing Kit 3/16 Od 25 Foot Coil Roll All Size Fittings | eBay . It also comes with a bunch of fittings. This replacement was a HUGE PITA.
- I used the S.U.R.R PFT-409 hydraulic flaring tool and it's a winner for on the car work. Basically quick and effortless - not cheap but worth it for the lessened aggravation.
- Secured the steering coupler to the box, that's one less thing I don't need to worry that I forgot about now.
- This transmission line kit is NOT for a 62-64 B-Body: For Plymouth Fury 1962-1964 Transmission Cooler Line 2 Piece-RTC6202OM-CPP | eBay . I'm going to have to rework it completely and THAT is a PITA.
- Laid out the placements for the line lock and front brake billet distribution block.
Chuck (snook)
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Updates:
- Finally finishing the brake line replacements, still waiting on some master cylinder fittings (9/16-20 x 3/16" & 1/2-20 x 3/16") from Fine Lines due tomorrow. Will do a pressure/leak test after installation.
- Clocked the distributor
- Ran the MSD black plug wires - looks good
- Mounted the MSD Blaster coil - looks good
- Car will go in next week for the 4.10 gear and D60 Powr-Lok swap with the Strange spool and pro-gear 4.56 and a front end alignment and pitman arm update - if the stars align...
- Will grease the new front end tomorrow if time permits
- Getting close to firing up the engine, still need to wire and run the MSD 6AL Digital before that happens.
- Need to get some good race gas as I'm pretty sure I'm ending up with more compression that I initially calculated, more like 11:1
Chuck (snook)
- Finally finishing the brake line replacements, still waiting on some master cylinder fittings (9/16-20 x 3/16" & 1/2-20 x 3/16") from Fine Lines due tomorrow. Will do a pressure/leak test after installation.
- Clocked the distributor
- Ran the MSD black plug wires - looks good
- Mounted the MSD Blaster coil - looks good
- Car will go in next week for the 4.10 gear and D60 Powr-Lok swap with the Strange spool and pro-gear 4.56 and a front end alignment and pitman arm update - if the stars align...
- Will grease the new front end tomorrow if time permits
- Getting close to firing up the engine, still need to wire and run the MSD 6AL Digital before that happens.
- Need to get some good race gas as I'm pretty sure I'm ending up with more compression that I initially calculated, more like 11:1
Chuck (snook)
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Updates:
- Did not get the MC fittings today, should be here Monday. It is what it is.
- Greased new front end
- Ran plug wires. MSD wires on the drivers side way too long - I have a work around though
- May have to push the D60 gear swap into week after next
- Finishing the wiring this week and should be ready for an engine start next week. I'll post video when it happens.
Chuck (snook)
- Did not get the MC fittings today, should be here Monday. It is what it is.
- Greased new front end
- Ran plug wires. MSD wires on the drivers side way too long - I have a work around though
- May have to push the D60 gear swap into week after next
- Finishing the wiring this week and should be ready for an engine start next week. I'll post video when it happens.
Chuck (snook)
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Updates:
- Finally finished the brake lines, next up is a pressure check to make sure we don't have any leaks prior to filling the system with brake fluid.
- Next up is getting the ignition done and firing up the engine...
Chuck (snook)
- Finally finished the brake lines, next up is a pressure check to make sure we don't have any leaks prior to filling the system with brake fluid.
- Next up is getting the ignition done and firing up the engine...
Chuck (snook)
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Here's a few pics of my ham handed work on the brake lines. Shows the master cylinder, line lock, front brake billet block, rear brake proportioning valve and brake stop light pressure switch... not my best work but should be OK for now.
Chuck (snook)
Chuck (snook)
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Updates:
- Made good progress on the dash instrumentation and controls wiring. Having a label maker (these are heat shrink tubes) makes things easy to identify. I attached some pics.
- I use PIDG lugs, butt splices and crimpers. Force of habit from my nuclear days... eBay is a good source for surplus military supplies and tools.
- The aqua colored wire ties are not there for looks. They are made of Tefzel, extremely heat and chemical resistant and easy on the wire jackets.
Chuck (snook)
- Made good progress on the dash instrumentation and controls wiring. Having a label maker (these are heat shrink tubes) makes things easy to identify. I attached some pics.
- I use PIDG lugs, butt splices and crimpers. Force of habit from my nuclear days... eBay is a good source for surplus military supplies and tools.
- The aqua colored wire ties are not there for looks. They are made of Tefzel, extremely heat and chemical resistant and easy on the wire jackets.
Chuck (snook)
Looks great. Very neat and organized. Good eye for detail
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
- Local time
- 12:23 PM
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2020
- Messages
- 1,177
- Reaction score
- 1,883
- Location
- Okeechobee, Florida
Updates:
- MAXIMVS roared for the first time for me since 2006. Unfortunately it was short lived. He fired and sounded good when I primed the carbs - NASTY!
- But he wouldn't keep running and I deduced that there was no fuel getting to the carbs.
- I figured it was a bad NEW mechanical fuel pump...
- Alas it was not the fuel pump, the pump worked great when I manipulated it by hand.
- What could the problem be? Well for me, it was a new one, one I had not encountered before and never thought to check...
- The ISKY solid roller cam... has NO mechanical fuel pump eccentric... therefore, no fuel was being sent to the carbs. So...
- I ordered a new electric fuel pump & regulator. Will be here early next week.
- A few other things... a good sized trans fluid leak at the area where the dipstick tube fits into the trans and a valve cover leak on the drivers side, which is a normal happening for the old style 4 bolt valve covers. Both not a big deal but annoying, I HATE leaks.
- BUT... the MSD and re-wire job looks good so far. He fired right up so at least I know that I got that right.
- Not a bad day and I got to hear MAXIMVS roar once again. That ISKY cam and solid roller valvetrain sounded nasty and that was worth the price of admission. I fear that I was off on the compression ratio though... Way to crisp for anything under 11:1
Chuck (snook)
- MAXIMVS roared for the first time for me since 2006. Unfortunately it was short lived. He fired and sounded good when I primed the carbs - NASTY!
- But he wouldn't keep running and I deduced that there was no fuel getting to the carbs.
- I figured it was a bad NEW mechanical fuel pump...
- Alas it was not the fuel pump, the pump worked great when I manipulated it by hand.
- What could the problem be? Well for me, it was a new one, one I had not encountered before and never thought to check...
- The ISKY solid roller cam... has NO mechanical fuel pump eccentric... therefore, no fuel was being sent to the carbs. So...
- I ordered a new electric fuel pump & regulator. Will be here early next week.
- A few other things... a good sized trans fluid leak at the area where the dipstick tube fits into the trans and a valve cover leak on the drivers side, which is a normal happening for the old style 4 bolt valve covers. Both not a big deal but annoying, I HATE leaks.
- BUT... the MSD and re-wire job looks good so far. He fired right up so at least I know that I got that right.
- Not a bad day and I got to hear MAXIMVS roar once again. That ISKY cam and solid roller valvetrain sounded nasty and that was worth the price of admission. I fear that I was off on the compression ratio though... Way to crisp for anything under 11:1
Chuck (snook)
Congrats! Amazing isn't it? I can't wait to get to that point with mine.
Similar threads
