The return of MAXIMVS...

[Snook]

Updates:
- Filled the engine and trans with fluids and checked for leaks - none so far.
- Ordered 3/16 nickel copper brake line kits to redo the front and rear systems and ordered a new rear brake hose, probably the wrong one.
- Worked out the wiring, so now it's ready to get done.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- Fabbed and ran new rear brake lines - the old ones were shot and well, it was worse than I thought - I corrected a multitude of sins I did 20 years ago. It was functional but UGLY but OK for a race car. Par for the course. The cupronickel bendable 3/16" line is the tits. I got the fine lines kit and it was simple especially using the Eastwood flaring system I got a few years ago - way paid for itself with no aggravation.
- Ran the 1/0 flex battery cable & 6AWG 100A alternator cable from the trunk forward. Added Raychem heat shrink at pinch points.
- Bought some Blue Sea ANL fuse blocks and 300A (starter) and 100A (alternator) ANL fuses to be added in the trunk for circuit protection that was lacking before. I'll be installing these next week.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Nxcoupe]

Updates:
- Fabbed and ran new rear brake lines - the old ones were shot and well, it was worse than I thought - I corrected a multitude of sins I did 20 years ago. It was functional but UGLY but OK for a race car. Par for the course. The cupronickel bendable 3/16" line is the tits. I got the fine lines kit and it was simple especially using the Eastwood flaring system I got a few years ago - way paid for itself with no aggravation.
- Ran the 1/0 flex battery cable & 6AWG 100A alternator cable from the trunk forward. Added Raychem heat shrink at pinch points.
- Bought some Blue Sea ANL fuse blocks and 300A (starter) and 100A (alternator) ANL fuses to be added in the trunk for circuit protection that was lacking before. I'll be installing these next week.

Chuck (snook)

What is this magic flare tool you speak of? Any pics or description of it and how it works?

 

[Snook]

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- Looks like I'll be replacing front & rear brake lines as the 45* single flared lines have been in place since the 60's 70's. It's going back on the street with limited strip duty, so I'll be replacing with 45* double flared lines.
- Figured out a plan of attack for installing the fuse blocks without a major loss of already completed work.
- Will be scraping the undercarriage of rust scale and coating. Using Rustoleum rust reformer as a spay on barrier and converter. The car sat for years in a non-climate controlled garage and it suffered some scale but remains solid throughout.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- Wire brushed the undercarriage and applied Rustoleum Rust Restorer - this stuff works great. The car had a lot of surface rust from sitting a non-climate controlled pole barn for many years. Brushed and knocked off the flakes and applied the coating. Looks great and will undoubtedly outlast me.
- Ended up replacing the rear disc rotors, pads, calipers and hoses as the originals were badly pitted and cracked. All the stuff is from a 1996-2001 Ford Explorer, so it was readily available.
- Prepped the car for new brake lines after removing the old single flared lines.
- Took some pics of the Doug's fenderwell headers that I ceramic re-coated. See pics. These are old school and not available any longer and the fit is excellent.
- Last note. DO NOT use an impact on your lugs nuts other than just running them in and snugging up. See attached pics to see what happened to the Strange Engineering 3" screw in studs. I really don't know what happened but I was lucky just to get the nuts off - I almost had a real problem. I ordered new screw in studs for the rear and press in studs for the front along with new Weld Wheel lug nuts.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- I suck at brake lines - I admit it. I broke down and ordered a 3/16" 180* bend tool from Fragola through Summit. I also ordered a 3/16" line straightener from Summit. I won't show pics of my crappy bends using cupro bendable lines, that's how bad they are in my view. Sure, they may be serviceable but I don't want to be remembered for this work; my pride talking I guess. I'm my own worst enemy.
- here are some pics of what happens when you use an impact on wheel lug nuts/studs. Keep in mind that these are Strange Engineering top of the line screw in studs - these are high quality and I ordered new units from Strange, so you know that I have high confidence for these at $9 a pop (10 x 9 = $90). This is all on me, no fault on Strange's part.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Nxcoupe]

Updates:
- I suck at brake lines - I admit it. I broke down and ordered a 3/16" 180* bend tool from Fragola through Summit. I also ordered a 3/16" line straightener from Summit. I won't show pics of my crappy bends using cupro bendable lines, that's how bad they are in my view. Sure, they may be serviceable but I don't want to be remembered for this work; my pride talking I guess. I'm my own worst enemy.
- here are some pics of what happens when you use an impact on wheel lug nuts/studs. Keep in mind that these are Strange Engineering top of the line screw in studs - these are high quality and I ordered new units from Strange, so you know that I have high confidence for these at $9 a pop (10 x 9 = $90). This is all on me, no fault on Strange's part.

Chuck (snook)

View attachment 1308830

View attachment 1308831

Did you use any sort of lubricant on the threads?

 

[Snook]

Did you use any sort of lubricant on the threads?

Nope, never have before but will do it going forward.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- New front studs will be here tomorrow. Old studs pressed out and 6 of the 10 studs had damaged threads and were bent. These were Milodon 86155 and the failure was my fault, not Milodon's. I wont be pressing these in but will use a Summit tool PN# 910109 (wheel stud installer) this time around. I salvaged a set of five usable Milodon 86155 studs and installed them with this tool and it installed straight and true so this should do the trick.
- Finished the brake lines but will likely have to replace a few of the lines due to possible bad double flares (my fault) but may be OK, we'll see if the system holds pressure with no leaks. I discovered that even with the Eastwood flare tool, the dies need to be cleaned and grease free to make a flawless double flare.
- Going with green bearings over tapered bearings (that's what is in there now) for the Dana 60 rebuild. Kit on order from Dr. Diff

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- Correction on the front studs - they were ARP not Milodon. I corrected that in the previous thread. I replaced with Milodon PN# 86155.
- I installed the new Milodon front studs using the Summit tool PN# 910109 and the stud alignment is perfect this time around and the wheels mounted perfectly.
- Put the front disc brakes back together and finished the brake lines; now we'll see if they hold pressure with no leaks.
- Car is on the ground with all four wheels, so the focus will now shift to the electrical systems.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Not going to lie - I'm a whipped puppy installing those front studs with the Summit tool. It was a six stage process:
- Coat the knurled stud splines with grease
- Lightly press in the suds to get them seated barely
- Grease the stud threads
- Run the installation tool down to lightly seat flat against the rotor surface, making sure that the tool mating surface to the rotor was greased
- Start the installation by torqueing the tool down with a 1/2 ratchet
- Finish the stud installation with a long handled 1/2 breaker bar
- Repeat these steps 4 four times for the one rotor and the 5 more times for the other rotor.
- I verified alignment with a 1/2 wheel spacer to make sure the installation is good and then installed the tire and wheel.

It was a PITA but necessary to ensure a good install this time around. Here's some pics of the stud install tool, none the worse for wear after doing 10 studs. The trick is to use plenty of grease.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- Roughed in the main power today, see pics. I still need to fab up the cable from battery to the shutoff switch. I'll post a tutorial when I make the crimps and cuts. The main power cable is a flexible 1/0 cable (PN# XPFLEX0RD-50, XS Power Batteries XPFLEX0RD-50 XS Power XP Flex Power Cables | Summit Racing . This is some good stuff with a TOUGH jacket. The alternator cable is 6AWG for the 100A single wire alternator (Pico Wire PN# 8096S, PICO Wiring 8096S Pico Starter Cables | Summit Racing . I have a lot of extra length left over from these 50 foot rolls, so I'll be selling off the excess (more than enough to do another car).
- I used two Blue Seas (good marine stuff that I use on my boats) ANL fuse blocks. Main power is 300A fused, alternator is 100A fused. The part numbers for the fuse blocks is Blue Seas PN# 5005, BLUE SEA SYSTEMS ANL Fuse Block for 35 to 300A Loads | West Marine . The fuses are ANL300 & ANL100.
- Both hoods I have are messed up. One with rust pinholes on the leading edge with a dent in a critical area of the front hood bracing. The other is big time bent on the underside support structure for where the latch mechanism is at. Taking the pieces into a body shop next week to see what can be done. Also taking two good deck lids to the body shop and have them make the call on which one to use. Once the work is done, they will be painted WW1 (Ermine); I'm taking a painted piece in to have it color matched.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- knee is killing me so slow going. I tripped three times over hoses in the garage and landed on my left knee all three times. That's what I get for being in a hurry and not watching where I'm going.
- two hoods and two deck lids going to the body shop tomorrow to see which of either is the best candidate, all have some problems. The survivors will get body work and WW1 painted
- Swapping out the two post Moroso shut off switch (rated at 20A) for a new four post switch rated at 125A to make it legal when using a 1 wire alternator (100A rated). Will be here tomorrow.
- Swapping the Mallory dizzy for a billet MSD unit to work with the MSD 6AL. Got a good deal on a used one from a FBBO member, should be here tomorrow.
- Got a new set in of black MSD 8.5mm wires in yesterday. The old Moroso blue max wires aren't going to cut it.
- Stripping all of the old race car wiring out and will be rewiring using the original harnesses and new wiring and switches for the non OEM loads. This is going to be a PITA but needs to get done.
- Got in a set of main caps for the new 440 based stroker that's going in later. These are going to the machine shop for installation on the standard bore high nickel content block that I have there. I'll be doing a 500" stroker for this iteration but the 440 in the car now (0.060" over, 452 CID) will do for the meantime - I already know it's on borrowed time but should be good enough to work all the bugs out. I'll do an install early next year with the new 500.

Chuck (snook)

 

[bearman]

Thanks for all the details you have saved alot us time and trouble. I'll keep watching great stuff and it's coming along great.

 

[Snook]

Thanks for all the details you have saved alot us time and trouble. I'll keep watching great stuff and it's coming along great.

Thanks. I was hoping that this thread would help some folks keep from duplicating my errors and make life a little easier.

Chuck (snook)

 

[Snook]

Updates:
- Knee is better, slow going for an old F*ck like me
- Been dealing with a good way to deal with running a 1/0 flex cable through the firewall. Finally settled on doing a hole saw (2.25" through the firewall and using a 62-65 upper radiator hose for through firewall insulation in tandem with a Raychem thick wall heat shrink - no way this combo will ever wear though and short. See pics attached. The radiator hose bends are perfect for what I need, works out well.
- Hood and deck lid are at the body shop for work and painting, should be back next week. I may have an extra 63 hood if anyone needs it. I have a nice 63 deck lid (fury) if anyone needs it.

Chuck (snook)

 

[bearman]

Give this a thought on protection of wires next time. Go to hose house ask for fire hose the size you need. Then use heat shrink on both side to make it neat. Just a thought

 

[Snook]

That's a good idea, thanks.

Chuck (snook)

 

[bearman]

I use around battery cable at starter protects from heat also.