This is a 68 Charger resto thread, there are many like it, but this one is mine...

[morrow_jacob]

Got it ready for bracing, looks like my inner rockers are solid enough...


My plan is to basically put angle iron around the frame rails and freeze them in place while I swap out the torsion Xmember. then the full pan. Then sub-frame connectors. I'm hoping the subframe connectors help keep things in place when I'm working out back.

The floor pan I bought is goodmark. Seems like a heck of a piece. The measurement are on (at least while its off the car). The pieces I've cut out lay perfect across the pan... ( I did bend a few pieces)

 

[Rodney]

looks good so far
what kind of weld through primer are you planning on using?
this is a handy tool for punching the spot weld holes
and a step bit for the places the punch won't reach does a nice job.

 

[poopdeckpappy]

Love that barstool hotrod!!

 

[daytona kid]

You've got a very nice car there mj. I have a 68 also, that was worse than yours. I rented a professional sand blast rig and did my whole car for about $300., You have to be careful to not warp the exterior panels. You may find some other helpful tips on my thread. I'm kind of a newb at this body work stuff to, but learning from this forum and all the guys doing the same things we are. You'll probably find everything you need to know about anything you want to do to that car right here, just ask!

 

[morrow_jacob]

Still working on her, just got preoccupied with the wife wanting the bedroom set refinished, thank goodness thats almost done.


A little more disassembled. The front tires will not come off the rotors, and I mean WILL NOT! I tried everything, pb blaster, torch, BFH, prybar...finally I just got fed up and took off the spindle with it all attached. I'm going to most likely replace everything attached to the rim anyway, so I will just keep the assemblies up in the attic to keep with the car.


I think Ive decided to go with a QAI K member to replace this beat up and horribly welded one. I like the fact its tubular and not TOO bad on the wallet. I was considering shipping mine off and having it gone through but that cost is almost as much as a QAI replacement.

Also you can see the lower radiator support is hacked almost beyond recognition. I seriously have no idea what the man who did this was thinking/doing. This is indicative of other repairs on the car, such as this...



Where the person welded on the bracket for a auto to manual swap. It looks like they took the torch and held it to the parts until it all just melded together. I'd love to hear some possible fixes for this. Possible options: replace the entire panel (I dont want to have to do this), buy a panel and patch it in (maybe), do my best with some sheet metal and get it looking as close as possible to original (maybe), make my own access panel (I like this the best)...

I also decided to take off the upper cowl and replace it with an AMD piece. I can patch the lower cowl if there is through rust, but the fresh air plenums have seen better days (from feel through from looking up from this inside), is there anyone who makes these aftermarket? I was considering patching what I could and taking down to bare metal and painting them to stop any further rust, since they will not be seen and its not a concourse car I can llive with them A LITTLE eaten up? Thoughts?

Thanks for checking this out and any advice in advance!

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I do have a sandblaster set up I bought from Amazon, and I have a 12 cfm @ 90 and 60 gal air comp., I also just ordered a breathcool 2 so I plan on doing the blasting jobs myself in sections, with the breathcool I can also spray 2 pack primer and eventually paint.

Speaking of paint, Ive been thinking of going with matte black. The bodywork on this car will not be perfect, and I plan on driving the heck out of it, so I dont plan on sinking my savings and years into making it perfect, so I wanted a simple, one application paint. I then wont have to worry about clear, sanding, buffing ect... and I like the flat look too. And I like the fact that I wont have paid someone to do it....Thoughts?

 

[Rodney]

I'd check the frame rails over real close to see if there is any damage from any kind of collision and measure the rails and upper body for square. My 1970 service manual has several pages of body frame dimensions Don't know if you have an OEM service manual for your 68 but you need one IMO.
you don't want to start cutting apart anything until you know it is straight. If is is bent fix it first or at least be aware of damage before you start cutting and welding.
Work from the 1/4 panel and door gaps forward starting with making sure the door openings are not bent.
You also need to have the body clamped on some sort of dedicated stand or best a frame jig supported on all of the control points.
I use a Kansas Jack frame rack when doing this kind of structural work and measure and test fit panels as you go.
I checked this Cuda before replacing the frame rails and aprons.



I test fit the doors, fenders header panel and hood before welding making adjustments if needed.

 

[morrow_jacob]

I'd check the frame rails over real close to see if there is any damage from any kind of collision and measure the rails and upper body for square. My 1970 service manual has several pages of body frame dimensions Don't know if you have an OEM service manual for your 68 but you need one IMO.
you don't want to start cutting apart anything until you know it is straight. If is is bent fix it first or at least be aware of damage before you start cutting and welding.
Work from the 1/4 panel and door gaps forward starting with making sure the door openings are not bent.
You also need to have the body clamped on some sort of dedicated stand or best a frame jig supported on all of the control points.
I use a Kansas Jack frame rack when doing this kind of structural work and measure and test fit panels as you go.
I checked this Cuda before replacing the frame rails and aprons.

I test fit the doors, fenders header panel and hood before welding making adjustments if needed. "

I did pick up a service manual. It's a great book, I'm certain it will be immensely helpful. I will be measuring the framerails like you recommended, I wasnt going to but I think you bring up a good point. I dont believe it has been in any major accident. I talked to the brother of the guy who owned it since the 70s and he doesnt remember any major wrecks other than scrapping something here or there. He was the last person to have it running, so the other couple short term owners didnt drive it.

Also the numbers on the radiator support and rear trunk channel match the car, so they have not been replaced. I also see nothing else that would indicate replacement or repair from a wreck, just lots of rust and shoddy backyard mechanic stuff. All this being said, I will still measure out the frame rails.

I bought a body dolly kit that should arrive today. The only "structural" that requires any major bracing will the the torsion bar crossmember. I dont foresee the need for a rack for the car (yet). I also dont have too much space in the garage, if need be I will make one. I have seen quite a few builds with what I need to also accomplish, and they dont have a ton of bracing. Such as Hawk-Rods, with the same dolly kit I bought...

Thanks for the help!

 

[Rodney]

That is great that you have some history of the car. That always helps.
Sounds like you are on the right track, a good dose of common sense when doing a major structural job.
looking at the entire job as you go measure twice fit more.. and weld once.

are you going to use all new parts or find a good donor car?

We were lucky with the Cuda and found a guy who was installing a tube chassis in his so all of the inner sheet metal was ours!
That really made that job go well and using OEM parts.
The reason the Cuda needed new rails / aprons was due to an old wreck and a shoddy repair on the frame rails.
None of The sheet fit right before I fixed it.

 

[morrow_jacob]

Some progress pics. With an infant and a toddler who both sleep at different times, its sometimes very hard to make noise :/ so its been slow going.

Got the XV lower Radiator support welded in. The original was absolutely mangled. I wanted to get it done to support the front frame rails properly.


Got the xmember supported and a large portion of the floor out for room



Getting the xmember out was a huge pain. the angles of the frame rails made getting my spot weld cutter in difficult. SO I did end up mangling some metal, but its fixable.

The new xmember is small. Through some guidance of another member I am going to weld in two 1/8'' plates on either side of the inner rockers to make up the distance.





Getting really close to having all the metal ready and mocked to allow for prep and paint and then weld in.

Hope everyone is well, take care!

 

[Rodney]

looks great.
I would suggest {I'm sure you plan on it} a little more paint and rust removal around the areas to be plug welded.
the cleaner the metal the nicer the weld.
now would sure be the time for sub frame connectors.
keep going.

 

[morrow_jacob]

Completely agree with the paint and rust removal. I am still in the stage of getting the metal repaired and looking good. Then I am going to sand everything that may be harder to reach once the member is welded. I'm going to paint with weldthru and once its in I am going to POR15 around the area as well.

Once the floor is in, the very next thing is going to be connectors, already on standby from UScartool. They should help keep the rear rails in place while I do some surgery in the back.

Thanks Rodney!

 

[jfreakofkorn]

looking good =0)

 

[Rodney]

I have the metal shop just cut me some rectangular tubing and make the sub frame connectors with a simple flange on either end.
I am going to make some for the Charger I am currently repairing.
when I welded the last floor and connectors in after fitting the floor and connectors I welded the connectors in place first, made easy welding the top.

 

[showard]

You are doing a great job. Looks good.

 

[morrow_jacob]

Update time:

I just got back from taking the Charger to North Texas Customs, where they blasted it and epoxied it, and they did a fantastic job for $1300. I didnt want to do this at first, but then later I was convinced this was the right way to go. So I finished a few things before I took it there.

I finished taking out the floor and the two center pieces behind it. Finished welding up the From K member nut inside the frame that I had to open up the frame to cut out. Scraped a bunch of undercoating off...well, my wife did . Finished welding in the torsion bar crossmember, needed a 1/4'' plate on each side to span the gap between the rockers. Did a bunch of random cutting of extra metal the last guy welded onto it along with a little metal repair and filled in some holes on the engine bay skirts.

She is a real beauty, Not as bad as I thought in some spots, worse in others.

Up next... I plan to use some cheap aluminum adjustable stands (attached to the dollies where the wheels are now) to get the car as close to level as humanly possible, and then run all the measurements for square and straight. And then I will stick in the floors and then a set of uscartool sub-frame connectors. I know some say to put them in with wieght, some say make sure its straight and you're good. I am in the camp that thinks that if its within factory specs with or without weight its good to go. I dont want to "lock in" any twist or sag when the engine and other weighty things are installed. But more comments regarding that are more than welcome.

I also purchased a 69.5-70 B body Dana 60 for $900. With powr-lok and 4.10s.

Thanks for any advice in advance.




New bench I made in the mean time


First attempt at my new stud welder


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The awesome job the last guy did patching the quarter

Thanks babe!



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Some holes I didnt know about

Passenger sail lookin pretty good

I think she'll hold, Its only to keep it aligned and to keep it from twisting when being tightened



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Sorry about the order of the pics.


The stands I plan on using to level the car

And a motivational pic of how I want my car to sit when I'm done (or somewhat in the ball park)


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[eldubb440]

very nice progress......... keep up the good work!

 

[mopar4don]

EPOXY BLACK! Love it!

 

[morrow_jacob]

Little bit of panel beating (firewall), filling in some holes (front frame rail topper), and some fab work (giant hole someone cut to bugger weld in the clutch pivot)

-Some dings in the firewall (If anyone has a good pic of this area I'd greatly appreciate it if youd post it)


-After some beating
-

-Hole in top of frame rail (before)


-Its thick metal, so I just welded the edge until it came together


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-Before


-I cut it out and sanded it a bit before it got blasted, here is the start of making that piece




-coming along


-you can see the other side in this pic, its what I'm going off of to make it look correct

-Its pretty close, its late and I cant use a hammer and dolly so this is as good as it gets for tonight until I can beat on the surrounding metal to get it flatter. the gaps are a little wide but with such a piece I dont think I can get it much closer. Any tips are appreciated

I plan on cutting the inner lip of the frame rail to go straight across but a little lower, it was boogered up pretty good when the guy welded on it. That lip goes up and down a bit, so I dont think it will be noticeable.

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Test fitting the ebay special floor, its wide and I need to trim the outsides a bit, but all in all not too bad. The bad part is it doesnt seem to mesh well with my AMD intermediate floor panels... But I will have to tackle that after a lot of other misc things before the floor gets welded in

 

[1970RT]

Great build.

I dropped my '70 at North Texas Customs right after you got yours done. They actually thought I was bringing your car back!

David

 

[moparstuart]

more pictures of the rat rod please