- Local time
- 7:31 AM
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2021
- Messages
- 8,146
- Reaction score
- 47,899
- Location
- Miserable Smells TX
It’s all part of the fun. You get good answers that help, and then you get smart asses posting funny stuff that helps too.Y'all 're nuts....

It’s all part of the fun. You get good answers that help, and then you get smart asses posting funny stuff that helps too.Y'all 're nuts....
Just my opinion......that is quite a sandwich of spacers and gaskets under the carb...do you really think all that stuff is necesssry? The additional height changes the cable pull angle which usually reduces the travel and short throttle opening. Several years ago, I thought that I had a fuel percolation problem with a Holley R-3310-1 Model 4150 on a Edelbrock Torker II and 440 with a open heat riser valve, using a similar sandwich and GM gasket with a aluminum heat shield (from an 425 HP L-88 engine and Holley carb).......the result was a broken throttle body casting, even though, I had uniformly tightened the mounting hardware using an inch-pound torque wrench......just a word of caution....be careful with the mounting hardware torque.Hopefully this is the right place for this. I have a 68 GTX 440. With an AFB, or an AVS my throttle cable works fine. But I have purchased an Edelbrock AVS2, and now my cable is just a tad too short. Does anyone have an idea of what’s going on? Any help would be greatly appreciate!
If I didn’t think it’s necessary, would I put it on there?Just my opinion......that is quite a sandwich of spacers and gaskets under the carb...do you really think all that stuff is necesssry? The additional height changes the cable pull angle which usually reduces the travel and short throttle opening. Several years ago, I thought that I had a fuel percolation problem with a Holley R-3310-1 Model 4150 on a Edelbrock Torker II and 440 with a open heat riser valve, using a similar sandwich and GM gasket with a aluminum heat shield (from an 425 HP L-88 engine and Holley carb).......the result was a broken throttle body casting, even though, I had uniformly tightened the mounting hardware using an inch-pound torque wrench......just a word of caution....be careful with the mounting hardware torque.
BOB RENTON
I feel like only the geezers here will even know who Magoo even is??Y'all 're nuts....
I know Mr Magoo, funny showI feel like only the geezers here will even know who Magoo even is??
"Oh Magoo! You've done it again!"I know Mr Magoo, funny show
NO.....probably because a "buddy" said that's what you need.....perhaps, if you used real AVS carb it would not be required or necessary as the OEM carb was not susceptible to percolation.....even on an iron manifold.If I didn’t think it’s necessary, would I put it on there?
You do this crap on everything I post. You come in with your I’m better then everyone bs, and act like I’m a complete idiot.NO.....probably because a "buddy" said that's what you need.....perhaps, if you used real AVS carb it would not be required or necessary as the OEM carb was not susceptible to percolation.....even on an iron manifold.
BOB RENTON
could someone clear up 2-points. one is what is the difference between a oem carb and a edelbrock carb that would make the fuel hotter. and 2 i always thought that iron intake can tolerate the heat better than an aluminium manifold.NO.....probably because a "buddy" said that's what you need.....perhaps, if you used real AVS carb it would not be required or necessary as the OEM carb was not susceptible to percolation.....even on an iron manifold.
BOB RENTON
Y'all 're nuts....
Aluminum dissipates heat faster but both will eventually heat up to operating temps and won't vary much if at all from each other. And yeah, I would like to know why an OEM carb could handle the heat better than the Eddy carb too and with that said, I've never experienced percolation with any carb. Now I have had fuel vaporize once the engine was shut off because of under hood heat.....is that what Bob is talking about?could someone clear up 2-points. one is what is the difference between a oem carb and a edelbrock carb that would make the fuel hotter. and 2 i always thought that iron intake can tolerate the heat better than an aluminium manifold.
Idk what he’s talking about, he’s just doing what he does on everything I post. It’s getting pretty ridiculous.Aluminum dissipates heat faster but both will eventually heat up to operating temps and won't vary much if at all from each other. And yeah, I would like to know why an OEM carb could handle the heat better than the Eddy carb too and with that said, I've never experienced percolation with any carb. Now I have had fuel vaporize once the engine was shut off because of under hood heat.....is that what Bob is talking about?
Well I can’t answer the first question, I believe it’s just him being him.could someone clear up 2-points. one is what is the difference between a oem carb and a edelbrock carb that would make the fuel hotter. and 2 i always thought that iron intake can tolerate the heat better than an aluminium manifold.
Well, I don't want to stir up the bowl on a crap show, but I will ask the question. Why did you think it was necessary to put the spacer on your manifold? Seriously, not being a wise ***, but asking the question.Well I can’t answer the first question, I believe it’s just him being him.
Keep the fuel from boiling and I’ve heard it helps fuel distribution, so I’m trying it out. If it it doesn’t, not to sound like too much of a smart ***, but guess what? It can be removed!Well, I don't want to stir up the bowl on a crap show, but I will ask the question. Why did you think it was necessary to put the spacer on your manifold? Seriously, not being a wise ***, but asking the question.
Depends on the alloy of the aluminum. It took awhile but the OEM's got a handle on building blocks and heads and just about everything else out of aluminum for engines some time back. Cast iron is similar as far as alloy content....like nickel. If you've never machined either one, then you don't know the sounds a high nickel cast iron makes. The more nickel, the louder it gets. I've machined a LOT of cast iron over the years. Aluminum is fairly quiet in the lathe but you can tell the the softer grades vs the harder grades by the way it cuts. Cast iron fractures when cutting it so you have to know what you're doing in order to get a smooth finish or spend a lot of time with hones. It's easy to get a nice finish with aluminum in the lathe. That's kind of a nutshell explanation but should give some insight. You can overheat just about anything and make it distort though but I'm thinking aluminum engine parts are doing pretty good. I've never had an old aluminum intake warp though....could someone clear up 2-points. one is what is the difference between a oem carb and a edelbrock carb that would make the fuel hotter. and 2 i always thought that iron intake can tolerate the heat better than an aluminium manifold.
what i aways do maybe you already have is make some block off plates or valley pan with block offs, then drill a 1/4 inch hole. cuts a lot of the heat out and the holes help exhaust reversion what you get when completely blocked off.Keep the fuel from boiling and I’ve heard it helps fuel distribution, so I’m trying it out. If it it doesn’t, not to sound like too much of a smart ***, but guess what? It can be removed!
I’m running aluminum heads, so I really don’t think I’ll have an issue because they don’t have the heat crossover. But better safe than sorry imhowhat i aways do maybe you already have is make some block off plates or valley pan with block offs, then drill a 1/4 inch hole. cuts a lot of the heat out and the holes help exhaust reversion what you get when completely blocked off.