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Timing with .590 Solid..

I don't understand what all the 'fuss' was about with this cam being extremely radical.. Car is very easy to drive with a four speed. Just as easy as the 110 LSA grind I just pulled out.
 
I don't understand what all the 'fuss' was about with this cam being extremely radical.. Car is very easy to drive with a four speed. Just as easy as the 110 LSA grind I just pulled out.

I just took an "in car" video from a little cruise this morning,,,, the sounds of the fuel pump, water pump and little rattles here and there are louder than the engine!!!!! LOL!!!!!! I did an easy part throttle burn out today, and the slicks didn't stand a chance.... LOL! I didn't let it rev too high and just shifted into second right away and lifted the throttle.....
 
UPDATE:
Father got the car running the other day, put it on 38* (locked out distributor) and it couldn't fire off, even using the push button starter/fire off ignition method. Car starts and runs great on 34* he stated like normal after a light cruise. Still can use the above method from the switch panel if the car gets too warm and doesn't want to cooperate. Timing is finally straight forward with the new SFI damper, and easy to read.

Love the solid lifter camshaft so far, very happy I made the investment to switch the engine over (hydraulics just don't seem to even compare on power)! Wish I was home to drive the car! Military has me in a stranglehold though where I am currently stationed..

Any idea's on ET with a 4-speed car and a good driver? Car has a 8-10# Fiberglass 'six pack' hood, aluminum radiator, lightweight seats, manual steering and brakes, disc brakes all around, no frill's interior (no ac, etc. no options other than heater), relocated battery, fiberglass bumpers that weigh no more than 5-8#'s each, plastic 12G fuel cell, with draglites (3.5" front, 8" rear). Has a locker, Dr. Diff axles W/ 3" studs, 4.10 gears, 30" ET Streets, welded sub-frame connectors, SS Springs, and all the D.C. Suspension mods (90/10s on front, etc.). I'm guessing the car can't weigh more than 3200-3300#; came from the factory at 3,400#. Would be very nice to get into the 10 second bracket.. I believe it should be able to.. but I have been wrong before :eusa_think:
 
Glad yall are gettin it sorted out. Naw, it ain't all that bad at all. Long as you time it accordingly it'll run good. You're makin me anxious to get mine built. lol I didn't realize you were in the service? What branch? Thanks for that.

You're just in Jacksonville? We need to meet up somewhere one day. I'm just NE of Macon, Georgia. Not too far off.
 
Glad yall are gettin it sorted out. Naw, it ain't all that bad at all. Long as you time it accordingly it'll run good. You're makin me anxious to get mine built. lol I didn't realize you were in the service? What branch? Thanks for that.

You're just in Jacksonville? We need to meet up somewhere one day. I'm just NE of Macon, Georgia. Not too far off.

US ARMY. Currently in GA. So close to home, yet so far away when trying to fill out leave forms. Just here for another two weeks. Was on active duty at Fort Bragg, NC. Got off active, switched over to Guard to continue my civilian education, and have been here for the past five months doing various training and leadership courses. I will be in Daytona for the Turkey Rod Run in November.
 
Glad yall are gettin it sorted out. Naw, it ain't all that bad at all. Long as you time it accordingly it'll run good. You're makin me anxious to get mine built. lol I didn't realize you were in the service? What branch? Thanks for that.

You're just in Jacksonville? We need to meet up somewhere one day. I'm just NE of Macon, Georgia. Not too far off.

US ARMY. Currently in GA. So close to home, yet so far away when trying to fill out leave forms. Just here for another two weeks. Was on active duty at Fort Bragg, NC. Got off active, switched over to Guard, and have been here for the past five months doing various training and courses. I will be in Daytona for the Turkey Rod Run in November.
 
For the record, my camshaft is degreed for proper installation. I belive it needed 3 degrees advance. Also for the record, I have 72cc heart shaped combustion chamber heads, .140 domed pistons, file fit rings. I have plenty of compression and it still likes no less than 18deg advance initial timing.
Would like to know what your cranking PSI is....

UPDATE:
Father got the car running the other day, put it on 38* (locked out distributor) and it couldn't fire off, even using the push button starter/fire off ignition method. Car starts and runs great on 34* he stated like normal after a light cruise. Still can use the above method from the switch panel if the car gets too warm and doesn't want to cooperate. Timing is finally straight forward with the new SFI damper, and easy to read.

Love the solid lifter camshaft so far, very happy I made the investment to switch the engine over (hydraulics just don't seem to even compare on power)! Wish I was home to drive the car! Military has me in a stranglehold though where I am currently stationed..

Any idea's on ET with a 4-speed car and a good driver? Car has a 8-10# Fiberglass 'six pack' hood, aluminum radiator, lightweight seats, manual steering and brakes, disc brakes all around, no frill's interior (no ac, etc. no options other than heater), relocated battery, fiberglass bumpers that weigh no more than 5-8#'s each, plastic 12G fuel cell, with draglites (3.5" front, 8" rear). Has a locker, Dr. Diff axles W/ 3" studs, 4.10 gears, 30" ET Streets, welded sub-frame connectors, SS Springs, and all the D.C. Suspension mods (90/10s on front, etc.). I'm guessing the car can't weigh more than 3200-3300#; came from the factory at 3,400#. Would be very nice to get into the 10 second bracket.. I believe it should be able to.. but I have been wrong before :eusa_think:
A buddy and I ran mid/high 10's with a 4 speed road runner in the early 80's with the old .590 cam. Sounds like a similar build but had more gear and ladders/coil overs and lighter....around 3000 lbs. And would also like to know what your cranking PSI is....
 
glad to hear it runs great.mine will be running very soon with the same cam.thanx for all the info on this thread everybody,will save me some timming questions with this cam.:grin:
 
Car could be lighter, I am just 'guessing' at 3,300#. Cranking PSI is unknown at the moment. 10.5-10.75CR is my guess, since we didn't build the short block and cannot get data for the pistons used. Was around 10:1 with cast iron heads in the 92CC range when blueprinted. I can only guess around 10.5:1 at 84CC. Probably will make more performance on Pump gas with the lower CR than with a higher CR and decreased timing. Was told by many local race shops, to not go with high compression on a street engine. The gain in horsepower, is not worth the cost of the fuel and decreased performance other than on the track with 110+ octane. Easier to make up the lost power with more cam and cylinder head flow. Would like to install some 4.30 gears for the 30" tires, but don't see them as being cost effective at the moment. Car also has the longer C-Body shocks on rear.
 
glad to hear it runs great.mine will be running very soon with the same cam.thanx for all the info on this thread everybody,will save me some timming questions with this cam.:grin:

The reason I made this thread was because of the minuscule amount of information out their on the .590MP camshaft. Everyone has ran one, but not very many people give out tuning information. A lot of people say the .590 is a dinosaur of a camshaft, but from what I have read; it seems to perform right their with, if not better than most modern grinds. It is very easy to drive, I don't see why people even consider it 'that' aggressive. I honestly feel it is tamer on the street, than the .509 Hydraulic.
 
Sweet5ltr; thank you, for you military service in the U.S. Army.... Sounds like you have enough opinions already...LOL..., good luck & Happy Moparing
 
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