Torque Converter ?

[Shorthorse]

I race a car so I know I'm overly sensitive about torque converters but a street driven car still needs the "right" converter. Yes, there are factory specs and if you simply want to drive your car then factory specs are the best benchmark. Over the counter converters are fine for your application but if you want even just a little more performance, call the experts. In past years I have talked to Hughs, TCI and PTC and all were very helpful. You can still buy an over the counter unit but some helpful professional input never hurts.
I don't mean to nag.

 

[wyrmrider]

did you say you had the standard or magnum cam?
you can get your converter built "brazed and bearings (roller, torrington) for not much more than a cheap rebuild`
From the MOPAR CHASSIS BOOK
Since 1962 there have been two different torque converter spline for the 727
Small spline 62-65. When I have a small spline trans I replace the input shaft (pump) and use the late converter. This book was B 4 the lockup
The stock non hp converter is described as "large diameter, lower stall, high efficiency A731 converter"
Just what you need
I use low stall higher stall torque ratio with below 3:54, or heavy, towing, etc
You do not want the converter doing a Dynaflow act (never "locking up" ) sorry about the term for a non lock up converter. You can get away with a looser converter in a really light car. think about it
Chassis book says Street Hemi 10 3/4 1830 stall, 2.23 Stall torque ratio peak efficiency 89.3%
They say the usual "HP" aftermarket converters stall at 1900-2100 torque ratio 2.2 but efficiency drops to 85%
A personal observation
I had a factory Cordoba 440 Magnum
low compression with the Magnum cam
IT ran hot, put out a lot of exhaust heat and was a DOG off the line and sucked gas
it had the smaller converter to try and cover up the DOG low end torque- Bigger cam made it worse
Shorter Cam with more lift made it better
Brake stall went UP with the shorter cam
so we swapped in a handy Imperial converter
everything was better.
I was the factory rep
440 was discontinued B 4 we could fix it
a lot of very bad decisions in the early seventies
actually starting with the 68 head
we had a Stage VI head all figured out even back then

 

[BeeKool]

I ended up orxering a B&M 2000 stsll from summit. Wondering if I should have ordered a new flexplate.

 

[wyrmrider]

I used to buy from the same company that did b&M
the did have a real balancer
no idea who's doing b&M's converters now

 

[PP1RT]

I ended up orxering a B&M 2000 stsll from summit. Wondering if I should have ordered a new flexplate.

If you don't see any stress cracks starting you should be fine unless you have a crazy build.

 

[vintage chromoly]

You may need an aftermarket flex plate if the converter to flexplate bolts are larger than stock.
That was the case with my turbo action converter.
Also, check your thrust end play when you install it.