torque converter

[junkpile]

440 with 484/284 cam presently running a 2800 stall converter. I need to replace the converter would like something from 2500-2800 stall. Who make the best affordable converter? I do not remember who I purchased my current one from(cant find the paperwork) but I know it had a range of 2500-2800 stall. need a good strong converter that will last.

Any info is greatly appreciated.

 

[1967coronet]

To get good info you will need to add more about your car.
Weight , gears , aprox hp, ect.
The transmisson/ drive train section may get more replies.
My 2 cents would be Dayco or mabey Hughes.

 

[junkpile]

69 charger, 440 .303 over, 425hp 727 auto, 3:23 gears, I was thinking Huges. On their site the nearest thy have to what I was running is a 2500 stall. I have tried one in the past that was 3000-3200 stall and the car absolutely hated it.

Since october my car drops from a normal 900 rpm in gear ideling (been running like this for 20 years), to between 250-350 rpm in gear idling. after changing electronics, carb, intake, distributor, wires, plugs and fixing a vacuum leak the problem remains so the only thing left to fix is the converter. the car will move if you left foot brake right foot gas but its extremely rought at idle in gear and very low rpm. in park the idle is perfect and you can rev it up, no signs of a miss, only under load it has an issue, so i am leaning to change the torque converter thinking that something has got it partially binding up.

 

[oldkimmer]

I don’t think it’s the converter. Did u change 1 piece at a time or? What is your timing set at? What car, intake, distributor and wires do u have. Did u do a compression test or a leak down test? Your cam may be going away.

 

[Budnicks]

Mopar Performance (now Direct Connection again)
makes a few, the MP part # P4876878AB 166k rated non lockup one
would be in that range
they aren't expensive & lasted a long time in my last street car

BossHog (can get thru Summit Racing)
makes a few decent cheap converters in that range 2500-2800 range
for a budget convert

 

[junkpile]

I don’t think it’s the converter. Did u change 1 piece at a time or? What is your timing set at? What car, intake, distributor and wires do u have. Did u do a compression test or a leak down test? Your cam may be going away.

cam looked good when the intake was removed to replace the valley pan last week. no visible burn marks or wear, lifters and rods were tight, rebuilt the eddy 750, I went thru everything that may cause a drop in RPM wile under load in gear. timing is steady like it has been for 20 years set at 12 base 36 all in, using firecore distributor, new cap and rotor, everything is as it should be till its put in gear. then it drops to 300 rpm, will run rough. There are no vacuum leaks, i have no way to check compression but when running at idle it revs up smooth ut to 300rpm and you can hold it steady at 2500 and it will just run like it should. drop it in gear and its the end of the world

 

[oldkimmer]

To test your converter hold the brakes down hard. Put in gear and bring the revs up as high as they will go. If good converter the revs will stay up. If no good the revs will go down low enough to kill the engine. Check this and report back. Kim

 

[junkpile]

To test your converter hold the brakes down hard. Put in gear and bring the revs up as high as they will go. If good converter the revs will stay up. If no good the revs will go down low enough to kill the engine. Check this and report back. Kim

I performed a test on the car last night. got the car on jack stands and let it warm up. Idle in park was 1100 rpm (as it has always been) dropped it in gear with the brakes on an the idle dropped to 350. Released the brakes and as the wheels began to move the RPM went up to 900 (which is what the base idle has been in gear for 20 years) car held at 10mph at 900 RPM. Applied the brakes and the rpm dropped to 350 again. Repeated this a few time, always the same. As soon as the wheels get moving all is well. Would this be a torque converter problem with a bad stator? FYI I have eliminted vacuum leaks, carburator, distributor. plugs,wires, fuel pump, fuel lines, ignition box and coil.

 

[oldkimmer]

You know, I actually fail to see how a cammed up 440 could idle at 250-350 rpm in gear. Leave it in park and turn the idle down to 350 rpm. Will it stay running? Can u post a video of your problem. Try the converter test I mentioned in an earlier post. Maybe your tachometer is wonky. I see no one else has tried to help u with the idling advice so maybe they think we’re both crazy. Idk. Kim

 

[RemCharger]

^^^^ I was wondering about the tach too

 

[junkpile]

RPM has been checked with the tach and a timing light digital tach. both are in sync. I can hold the brakes and bring up the RPM with the accelerator. I can keep the car running by holding the brake and gas to keep the RPM up and drive away just fine. if i come to a stop and let it stay in gear without reving it up the RPM drops to 300. I do not know why and have been thru everything but the timing chain and converter. The timing is spot on to what it always has been set at, it will run and rev smoothly when in park, can be held at any rpm without an issue, until put in gear (drive or reverse). Since this is only when the engine is under load, and I have fixed and intake leak, and replaced distributor, borrowed a new working carb (temp but did the same thing) replaced ECM, coil, plugs and wires, what else could it be? I have beed at this since October in what little spare time I have. This started on the way home from the last cruise night of the year, I left one traffic light with what I would say is heavy acceleration (fast take off but not enought to make the tires slip) buy the next light when i stopped the rpm dropped and it has not been right since. I will see if i can attach a video but i can not gaurentee the quality.

 

[junkpile]

video will not download