the under side is pretty solidTake a good look at your lower control arm pivot shaft bushing.. I suspect it's rotted and your pivot shaft is jammed off center.
Noneok thx i'll double check tomorrow
what difference would it make if the boots are rotten
It’s time for a LCA refresh sir ….. might as well look at those uppers tooto level my 66 cornet left driver torsion bar (777) screw is almost all the way in
passenger side (776) maybe half way ( both 7/8" bars)
can i reclock driver side
Actually, the engine/trans is offset to the right....passenger side.the motor being off set to the left, puts more weight on the left side to.
Even if you have the bump stops in as someone said above?The rubber LCA bushings rot with age. If yours are 55 years old I suspect they're done. As for clocking, if the bars are on the correct sides you cannot clock them wrong. No way you can be 60 degrees out..
As long as the adjuster lever was down about flush with the top of the LCA then you're in the correct place. You'd have to have the adjuster lever pointing up towards the top of the fender to be 60* out. Some cars you can get the bars in with the upper bump stop in place, especially if they are old tired ones. New stops you'd GENERALLY have to pull down pretty hard on the LCA to get the bar in.Even if you have the bump stops in as someone said above?
I'm asking because my bars went in easily with just the grease and tensioners backed out all the way. What would be the difference if I removed the bars and bump stops then reinstall the bars?
I did notice one side was easier.As long as the adjuster lever was down about flush with the top of the LCA then you're in the correct place. You'd have to have the adjuster lever pointing up towards the top of the fender to be 60* out. Some cars you can get the bars in with the upper bump stop in place, especially if they are old tired ones. New stops you'd GENERALLY have to pull down pretty hard on the LCA to get the bar in.