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Torsion bar adjusters...

If he takes his time he should not have an issue I work on finished cars all the time for routine suspension. Put a towel or rubber pad on the jack and use a plastic dead plow hammer if need be. A little touch up paint on the suspension is a ton cheaper than a new bar and in some cases retailers only sell them in pairs
I would first explore trying to get the bolt out first before moving to your process as a last resort and if not wanting to do that then cut the bar.....your option works and is very well known......
 
Thanks guys, lots of good advice and I appreciate all!!! Guess I've done same on coil spring cars/trucks many times but to moparnation74's point k-member and complete suspension were detailed during the swap. Cutoff wheel to the the bar (while not the cheapest) may be best to maintain fit & finish on everything else... I'll mull it over and decide which way to go...
Thanks again!!!
 
Cutting the bar would be my last option. Cutting it can be dangerous too, as its under tension. I can just see it breaking loose at the cut and one end busting your knuckles!

If you couldn't do the jack method without damaging the detailing then I think you're in the wrong hobby. A rubber pad, a block of soft wood, a stack of rags or a combination of any of these under the LCA will eliminate any chance of damage.
 
Cutting the bar would be my last option. Cutting it can be dangerous too, as its under tension. I can just see it breaking loose at the cut and one end busting your knuckles!

If you couldn't do the jack method without damaging the detailing then I think you're in the wrong hobby. A rubber pad, a block of soft wood, a stack of rags or a combination of any of these under the LCA will eliminate any chance of damage.
Wrong hobby, lol....or take a less risky alternative....

I have cut many torsion bars from stripping cars and never had anything like you stated.....have you ever cut one?
 
I have cut many torsion bars from stripping cars and never had anything like you stated.....have you ever cut one?

I'm just not in a big hurry to spend someone else's hard-earned money !! The bar can be cut as a last resort but why not try saving it first. I'm glad you're not a doctor who deals with broken limbs or there'd be a lot of one-legged people walking around your town !!
 
I'm just not in a big hurry to spend someone else's hard-earned money !! The bar can be cut as a last resort but why not try saving it first. I'm glad you're not a doctor who deals with broken limbs or there'd be a lot of one-legged people walking around your town !!
Did you not read post #21....that was my last resort.....

There are three ways to remove the bolt and all three are relayed here....

Why relate to a human....kinda ridiculous anaolgy.....not even close...

Btw can we see a picture of your detailed suspension? I believe we are comparing apples to oranges here...also the OP agreed to take a lesser risk first before moving to another...
 
Cutting a bar is a last resort. But if you decide to. I would still undo the lower control arm from the spindle to have the least amount of the tension on the bar to be as safe as possible. Even with a detailed suspension it should be very easy to disassemble since the work was done recently with little to no damage to the finish.

Plus if I was you I would call the company that you got the bars from as they may only sell pairs not a single bar before doing anything.

Thanks
James
 
Unbolt upper shock mount
Remove UCA bumper
Loosen UCA bushing bolts
Loosen LCA pivot bolt
Raise front end, suspension should be at max slack
Then work on the broke adjuster bolt. It may be possible to get a large screwdriver in to lever the torsion bar adjuster off the adjuster bolt.
 
Cutting a bar is a last resort. But if you decide to. I would still undo the lower control arm from the spindle to have the least amount of the tension on the bar to be as safe as possible. Even with a detailed suspension it should be very easy to disassemble since the work was done recently with little to no damage to the finish.

Plus if I was you I would call the company that you got the bars from as they may only sell pairs not a single bar before doing anything.

Thanks
James
Solely agree to the last resort.....

Depends on the finish.... Powdercoat, phosphate, how do you touch up those? Not dabbing paint but touching up with like material?

Paint that's a no brainier......

Thanks

Justin
 
Well if the items are powdered coated properly it is very difficult to chip. Ive seen people break drill bits and taps cleaning and chasing hole on powder coated frame. So the likely hood of damaging powder coat is minimal especially if you take your time and use a rubber pad or thick cloth material between the jack and LCA. I have worked on numerous show cars and its all in the care, prep and thinking when working on them. The key is to work methodically and take your time.

Better yet we would be better off asking the OP what he used in the restoration of is vehicle rather than playing the what if game.
 
Well if the items are powdered coated properly it is very difficult to chip. Ive seen people break drill bits and taps cleaning and chasing hole on powder coated frame. So the likely hood of damaging powder coat is minimal especially if you take your time and use a rubber pad or thick cloth material between the jack and LCA. I have worked on numerous show cars and its all in the care, prep and thinking when working on them. The key is to work methodically and take your time.

Better yet we would be better off asking the OP what he used in the restoration of is vehicle rather than playing the what if game.
Very true and not making it seem as a simple touch up in general.....:thumbsup:
 
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Unbolt upper shock mount
Remove UCA bumper
Loosen UCA bushing bolts
Loosen LCA pivot bolt
Raise front end, suspension should be at max slack
Then work on the broke adjuster bolt. It may be possible to get a large screwdriver in to lever the torsion bar adjuster off the adjuster bolt.

I'd undo the lower shock bolt only because it will have to come out eventually to remove the LCA. Let the shock hang from the top bolt.
 
Thanks Yahtzee!!! Most reasonable explanation I've heard... must be a quality issue; no way I should have been able to break a hardened bolt that size with the ratchet I was using...
You're just a animal! :poke:
 
One thing on the adjuster bolt that might be of interest to all concerned. The way the threads are rolled in the bolt makes them self locking. They are not rolled as deep as a regular bolt if you look at a side by side comparison. One of the reasons they don't back out, besides the force against them from the arm, and a good reason to antisieze them when doing your install. GM and others did similar types of self locking fasteners like on the exhaust manifold outlet studs.
 
Just get the torch out and melt it down and cut it off. 15 minute job and you want to spend hours disconnecting inmaterial items. Why?
 
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