Tranny pan, someone explain this

[dvw]

This is a good question. The biggest reason to use a deep pan is fluid capacity vs temp. High stall converters run hotter. They also hold less fluid being smaller in diameter. If you have aerated fluid, it will be everywhere in the pan, not just the top. Now if the filter becomes uncovered during hard accell and sucks air you would have an issue. Does the filter stay covered using the stock pan? If so when using a deep pan it probably doesn't need to be lowered. The windage shouldn't change using one or the other. The 518 truck pan is deeper then the standard deep pan. I ran it (and still do) with the stock length filter extension with the 518. Never had an issue with the filter 1" off the floor. Car pulls the wheels a foot or more for about 1.2 seconds (60 feet). Later I did build a deeper extension. Probably just added weight. I've talked a few times about creating acceleration baffle in the rear of the pan. Some very smart guys in the business told me not to waste my time. So in conclusion. If you have enough capacity it probably doesn't matter if you have a filter extension. Does a cast aluminum pan offer any strength over a stamped steel? Can't answer that either. Never broke a case.
Doug

 

[DeltaV]

As a side note, it's nice to have a drain plug.

 

[bearman]

The only dumb question is the one not asked. This forum has been great for the ones who know and the ones that don't. A simple question as this makes for good sense as the op has ask. I'll ask this what's your weak point. We all have one that's why we are here to get the training needed to move forward. My next thought is how many members don't ask for fear of getting nailed by a remark when they are only asking. Yes it's ok to razz each other and argue over the point at hand. But it's not okay to nail on someone for asking any type of question. How many of the pros on he learn something from a newbie I can say for myself alot. They get themselves into trouble and try to figure it out but loose it so they call on their bothers and sisters for help. But yet as they deal with the issue at hand they feel safe and confident that they can complete the task at hand with your help and knowledge. As we all should feel when any type of question is asked.

 

[wyrmrider]

the more fluid theory only works for drag racing
for track the heat transfer capacity of small vs big pan is minuscule
get a bigger cooler AND bigger lines
and if you are road racing or mountains do lower the pickup

 

[AJ/FormS]

I run a deep engine pan, not for cooling, and not for G-force compensation. I run the same 5 qts in the 7 qt pan, to put the oil level lower and further from the spinning crank; cuz I read what Smokey Yunich had to say about that in his book. Which boils down to free horsepower.
It seems to have worked cuz my car trapped at 93 mph in the Eighth, at 3467 pounds with a 367 and a 230* cam; which calculates to 433 horsepower. To me, that seems like a lotta power for what the combo is. I was expecting maybe 350 hp to 380.
Same thinking goes into the trans; keep the oil off the spinning parts, and free up some power,
Extend the pick-up, and run the same hot-running oil-level , off the bottom of the pan, which is now 1" lower liquid level, in a 1" lower pan.
This is not making power; rather freeing up power that was formerly wasted on beating up, and heating up,the oil. And it didn't cost you a bigger cam, with it's subsequent loss of low-rpm power. I call it smart-power.
Think about it;
93 in the eighth, at 3467 pounds at 930 ft elevation, with a 367 and a 230* @.050 cam. Run it thru your favorite calculator; that is BB territory.
I won't even mention how long the blackies are that the 295s lay. It's just a 4.04x3.58
Special thanks does out to Smokey
I used other tricks Smokey talks about.

 

[mike isabella]

Larger capacity transmission pans being sold. They are sold with or people buy those aluminum block spacers to extend the reach of the filter. It makes zero sense to me. Regardless, if you have 3 quarts in a tranny pan or 3 gallons. The top surface doesn’t change heights from a stock pan or an aftermarket larger capacity one. It makes no sense that you would want to submerge the filter into the fluid. The top level of the fluid in the pan doesn’t change. Regardless of pan capacity. Can someone explain that one ?

Easy to buy the 727 extension kit to make sure you don't suck any air into the system, I use just a little deeper pan with fins for cooling and install the kit. no problems so far

 

[dvw]

I run a deep engine pan, not for cooling, and not for G-force compensation. I run the same 5 qts in the 7 qt pan, to put the oil level lower and further from the spinning crank; cuz I read what Smokey Yunich had to say about that in his book. Which boils down to free horsepower.

Same thinking goes into the trans; keep the oil off the spinning parts, and free up some power,
Extend the pick-up, and run the same hot-running oil-level , off the bottom of the pan, which is now 1" lower liquid level, in a 1" lower pan.

This was my thought as well. So I discussed this with some Chrysler trans engineers and some very knowledgeable race trans guys. All agreed there was little if any gain to be had. I do run mine low but haven't seen any measurable gain.
Doug

 

[kbfallon]

Larger capacity transmission pans being sold. They are sold with or people buy those aluminum block spacers to extend the reach of the filter. It makes zero sense to me. Regardless, if you have 3 quarts in a tranny pan or 3 gallons. The top surface doesn’t change heights from a stock pan or an aftermarket larger capacity one. It makes no sense that you would want to submerge the filter into the fluid. The top level of the fluid in the pan doesn’t change. Regardless of pan capacity. Can someone explain that one ?

Mostly these parts were made for Race Cars and at 150 mph plus you want to be sure the trans is getting fluid where it needs to be and consistently...

 

[kbfallon]

This is a good question. The biggest reason to use a deep pan is fluid capacity vs temp. High stall converters run hotter. They also hold less fluid being smaller in diameter. If you have aerated fluid, it will be everywhere in the pan, not just the top. Now if the filter becomes uncovered during hard accell and sucks air you would have an issue. Does the filter stay covered using the stock pan? If so when using a deep pan it probably doesn't need to be lowered. The windage shouldn't change using one or the other. The 518 truck pan is deeper then the standard deep pan. I ran it (and still do) with the stock length filter extension with the 518. Never had an issue with the filter 1" off the floor. Car pulls the wheels a foot or more for about 1.2 seconds (60 feet). Later I did build a deeper extension. Probably just added weight. I've talked a few times about creating acceleration baffle in the rear of the pan. Some very smart guys in the business told me not to waste my time. So in conclusion. If you have enough capacity it probably doesn't matter if you have a filter extension. Does a cast aluminum pan offer any strength over a stamped steel? Can't answer that either. Never broke a case.
Doug

I run the cast aluminum pans for the Cooling Fins that most brands have along with the added capacity....figured it's gotta help a little, a little here a little there.....it all adds up as you must know.

 

[wyrmrider]

aluminum pas paint with a non insulating flat black paint or black anodize
we learned that with tests back in the VW/ Corvair days
pans with tubes do not really work
some have built windage trays
nothing wrong with the tips above but slosh...

 

[Lefty71]

aluminum pas paint with a non insulating flat black paint or black anodize
we learned that with tests back in the VW/ Corvair days

Curious to understand. You're saying black or alumunum paint will aid in pulling heat away, or was tried and did nothing?? I'm sure some testing was done by a few on the air cooled cars. TIA, Lefty71

 

[wyrmrider]

that was supposed to be aluminum pans not pas
some bar b q blacks work
not enamels
lacquer if you can find it
thin
polished aluminum (what you pay extra for) is the worse
and sandblast first- the rougher the better
lack of airflow and close exhaust are also problems