Transmission and converter install - 2 questions

[inri]

Hello all,

I am installing a 10" torque converter into a 727 small block. I believe I have fully seated the converter because it sits inside the bellhousing 1.25" (measured this). My first question is, if I pull on the converter it will slide out all the way, is this suppose to happen? For some reason I'm thinking it should not...

My 2nd questions is regarding connecting the transmission to the engine. I have been trying to get the converter knub to slide into the crank (used grease on both) but I'm having a really hard time to get them to line up 100%.
Would it be better to line up the engine dowel pins and then align the bellhousing flush to the engine via the dowel pins and then install the bellhousing bolts? By doing this, the converter knub would then be basically pressed into the crank.
Thanks for your answers!

 

[oldbee]

Bolt up bellhsg first, then t/c should be close enuf to start bolts thru flexplate to it; Unless ur crank is for a 4-spd. ( I cud be wrong)

 

[khryslerkid]

When installing the torque converter into the trans, you want to make sure it's engaged into the pump. There are two dogs / slots on the torque converter that drop into the front pump. If they are not engaged the converter will stick out too far. Turning it and applying pressure will normally let it drop into the slots. Yes it can pull out if you let the trans tip down in the front.

Once you have the converter in place, then you can line up and attach the bell housing to the back of the engine. Line up the dowels, start a bolt on both sides and watch it come together until flush. Don't force anything. When the bell housing is tight against the engine, make sure there is a small gap in between the converter and flywheel. If not, you'll have to loosen everything and get the converter to engage the front pump. If there is a gap, you're good. You will have to pull the converter up to the flywheel and line up the bolt holes and install the bolts.

There is only one way the four bolt holes line up to the flywheel. Unless you marked which way they line up, you'll have to spin it until you find the combination that works.

Make sure you have installed a new torque converter seal. Don't trust a used one.

Good luck.

 

[oldbee]

Oh yeah, a little grease on the hub never hurts.

 

[khryslerkid]

Oh yeah, a little grease on the hub never hurts.

The flex plate does just that, flexes in and out. That's why it's not a bad idea to lube the hub just a little.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

After you have the converter in and bolt up the bell,you should have 1/4 to 1/2 inch to pull the converter forward to touch the flexplate.

 

[moper]

You install the transmission with the convertor in place, and pushed all the way "in" to the trans. Bolt up the bellhousing completely and the hub of the convertor will be mostly aligned in the crank. So you grab the convertor and pull it forward until the flexplate is flush with the convertor.
You do not align the convertor first, then the bell.

 

[dvw]

Test the converter into the crank by itself before install. It should slide in easily. Lately I've seen a few that didn't. If it doesn't slide in fix it now. Flap disc on the crank, polish the paint off the hub. Also mark each bolt location on both the converter and the flex plate with a number, 1,2,3,4. That way you can easily line up the bolts.
Doug

 

[747mopar]

When installing the torque converter into the trans, you want to make sure it's engaged into the pump. There are two dogs / slots on the torque converter that drop into the front pump. If they are not engaged the converter will stick out too far. Turning it and applying pressure will normally let it drop into the slots. Yes it can pull out if you let the trans tip down in the front.

Once you have the converter in place, then you can line up and attach the bell housing to the back of the engine. Line up the dowels, start a bolt on both sides and watch it come together until flush. Don't force anything. When the bell housing is tight against the engine, make sure there is a small gap in between the converter and flywheel. If not, you'll have to loosen everything and get the converter to engage the front pump. If there is a gap, you're good. You will have to pull the converter up to the flywheel and line up the bolt holes and install the bolts.

There is only one way the four bolt holes line up to the flywheel. Unless you marked which way they line up, you'll have to spin it until you find the combination that works.

Make sure you have installed a new torque converter seal. Don't trust a used one.

Good luck.

Follow ^^^^^ and you'll be fine. To this day I'm still dumbfounded at the amount of people that trash transmissions by not getting the converter in all the way so make sure you do.

 

[khryslerkid]

Test the converter into the crank by itself before install. It should slide in easily. Lately I've seen a few that didn't. If it doesn't slide in fix it now. Flap disc on the crank, polish the paint off the hub. Also mark each bolt location on both the converter and the flex plate with a number, 1,2,3,4. That way you can easily line up the bolts.
Doug

^^^^^ Definitely do this too ^^^^

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I had had a few converter installs that were tight to get on now that I use a max lug pump.The pump is tighter tolerance where it engages the pump. Also as I spin the converter into the pump of the trans it like 2 or three "clunks" when the converter drops into the pump before it's completely seated in the pump.Hope that makes sense.

 

[inri]

Hi guys and thank you all for your posts. Sorry its been a few days for me to reply, but I've listened to what you all have said.
I figured out the root problem. The engine came back from the builder with a pilot bushing in the crank and therefore when I mounted the trans onto the engine dowel pins, the converter wouldn't go on any further. I didn't try to force it in either. It puzzled me at first because the engine came from an automatic transmission (2013 392 with Nag1), so I'm not sure why this would be in there?
Anyways, I went to O'Reilly's and rented the pilot bushing puller and slide hammer. However after an hour I can not get it to come out. It's as though the two puller teeth aren't angled enough to get under the rear lip of the bushing and pull it out. It keeps slipping off the bushing after the 3rd tug.
It's really hard to do this on my side and back under the car (I don't have a lift). Are there any suggestions on how to remove the bushing?....I'm 100% confident once the bushing is out the trans to engine assembly will go smooth.
Thanks!

 

[inri]

pic of the pilot bushing in rear of the crank

 

[khryslerkid]

If the bushing is as thin as it looks in your pic, I'd say use a sharp chisel and slice it. Then you can peel it out. See what others might suggest.

Does the nose on the converter even go that far into the second step in there?

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

From what I see,it doesn't look like that bushing should interfere.....

 

[inri]

The Converter knub is larger than the crank opening with bushing inside so it hit it. I measured the crank opening with digital calipers and the converter knub and if the bushing is removed it should fit snug.
Any suggestions on its removal? I've read online bread can work but that does seem a bit silly to be honest...

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Chisel and split as previously stated.

 

[miller]

The Converter knub is larger than the crank opening with bushing inside so it hit it. I measured the crank opening with digital calipers and the converter knub and if the bushing is removed it should fit snug.

Wait a minute. Are you calling the converter pilot the knub? Or, is there something new going on, that I've never heard about?
The converter has just the pilot, that slides into the larger recess, rear of crank. That smaller bore, with the bushing in it, is just for the pilot shaft in a standard trans! Bushing has nothing to do with an automatic converter.

Converter pilot shouldn't hit bottom on the cranks larger bore, and exactly as Doug said, it MUST slip easily into place.
Re-read what Doug (dvw) is telling you.

 

[747mopar]

Wait a minute. Are you calling the converter pilot the knub? Or, is there something new going on, that I've never heard about?
The converter has just the pilot, that slides into the larger recess, rear of crank. That smaller bore, with the bushing in it, is just for the pilot shaft in a standard trans! Bushing has nothing to do with an automatic converter.

Converter pilot shouldn't hit bottom on the cranks larger bore, and exactly as Doug said, it MUST slip easily into place.
Re-read what Doug (dvw) is telling you.

Agreed, what I'm seeing is a brass, bronze?? bushing in the smaller bore which like said is a pilot for a standard trans. The converter hub should only engage the large bore.

 

[miller]

Large bore diameter in the crank itself, is probably right.
Simply means the converter pilot is not. Never have bothered measuring them, but believe it should be, at least .002-.004 loose. Maybe a little more, just not too loose. I'd sand down the converter pilot, until it fits.