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Transmission and converter install - 2 questions

That bushing should be nowhere near the converter snont. The snount sits in the large diameter portion of the crank. It shouldn't be long enough to bottom out on the step that is flush with the pilot bushing. Does the converter slip into the crank at all?
Doug
 
Sorry guys my verbiage is probably confusing as I don't know the names of many of the parts components.

The converter has a circular bulge which I have been calling a knub that will not go into the crank due to its size being larger than the crank opening. If I remove the bushing/ bearing inside the rear crank that will open the crank hole large enough for the converter to slide in enough so I can then mount trans on the engine dowels and made together.
 
If the converter pilot / knub/ snout/ hub is to large in diameter, you need to remove the paint and any burrs. Flap disc the crank opening until it slides in easily. The pilot bushing area has nothing to do with it. I have seen where the converter snout doesn't have enough chamfer on the leading edge. This can cause bind at the bottom of the large crank recess. The small recess of the crank is out of the picture. The converter snout isnt long enough to get to that point.
Doug
 
Ok guys I will measure the torque converter pilot and the crank opening with my digital calipers and report back with their measurements later today. I'm at work now.
Thanks.
 
Did anyone else catch the fact that he has a 392 new Gen engine? Outa my league on the new ones.
 
Did anyone else catch the fact that he has a 392 new Gen engine? Outa my league on the new ones.
Well that might explain a few things! Good catch.

I'm out
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Sorry I may have forgot to mention :usflag:that I am installing a Gen 3 Hemi 392 6.4 with a 727 Smallblock.
 
Sorry I may have forgot to mention :usflag:that I am installing a Gen 3 Hemi 392 6.4 with a 727 Smallblock.
Well we’re still back with trying t/c by itself into the rear the crank I guess. NOT mounted in the trans!
 
Think you should talk to convertor manufacturer or who ever sold it to unless it's oem.
 
Did anyone else catch the fact that he has a 392 new Gen engine? Outa my league on the new ones.

Explains all the flexplate bolts in the picture. I almost lost count trying to add them all up. I don't think an old style Hemi has that many.
 
Sorry I may have forgot to mention :usflag:that I am installing a Gen 3 Hemi 392 6.4 with a 727 Smallblock.
No, you mentioned it early on. A lot of us just gloss over some of what we read/see. Then we say “ wait a minute”, I do it all the time myself.
 
Explains all the flexplate bolts in the picture. I almost lost count trying to add them all up. I don't think an old style Hemi has that many.
I never got to counting flexplate bolts,lol.
 
Sorry I may have forgot to mention :usflag:that I am installing a Gen 3 Hemi 392 6.4 with a 727 Smallblock.
Think you need to have the convertor nub machined to fit the crank. The nub is maybe to big in diameter and sticks into crank to deep.
 
Pull the flex plate off. Measure the torque converter snub(button) whatever you want to call it. Measure the crank hole. You should have a few thousandths difference (.00?). If you see a collar in the crank, that will need to come out. You can tack weld a 1 inch nut and use a corresponding bolt and tighten it, it will take the factory bushing out.
http://www.lxforums.com/board/archive/index.php/t-117914.html
 
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