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Trashed rocker assembly?

Not uncommon for the ends of the shafts to be slightly egg shaped. A little quick work with a fine file will remedy the problem. I've banana cut stock shafts with a thin cut-off wheel. Then polished them. It's always worked well. If the bores of the rockers aren't to beat up? A wheel cylinder hone will clean them up. A few grooves won't matter as long as there aren't any high spots.
Doug
 
Didn't the OP state he couldn't get the rockers off of
the shafts due to collapsed shaft ends?
Smashed tubes will affect required push rod length.

I cut the shafts into pieces and removed the rockers.
Everything else looked great, so reinstalled with new lifters and shafts with original rockers.
Set lash.
After break in, car idles and runs great but has hellacious (I think) valvetrain noise with any load applied. No way it's detonation. Means that the detonation I've been chasing for the past 2 years was probably valtrain noise the whole time. Idle and cruise is fine. Revving is fine. Leaving from a stoplight, though, and it sounds like marbles.
Valve covers are leaking so pulling them off tomorrow. Will double check lash all the way around. Will then change the oil from the break in mixture to normal. Filter too.
If the car still sounds like a bag of bolts under acceleration, I will assume I have an oil supply or pressure issue.
At that point I may give up and try to find somebody within towing distance from my hometown to figure all out.
It's either that or sell the car. In the two years I've owned it I really haven't been able to drive it that much. Not a quality that I look for in a car.
 
I cut the shafts into pieces and removed the rockers.
Everything else looked great, so reinstalled with new lifters and shafts with original rockers.
Set lash.
After break in, car idles and runs great but has hellacious (I think) valvetrain noise with any load applied. No way it's detonation. Means that the detonation I've been chasing for the past 2 years was probably valtrain noise the whole time. Idle and cruise is fine. Revving is fine. Leaving from a stoplight, though, and it sounds like marbles.
Valve covers are leaking so pulling them off tomorrow. Will double check lash all the way around. Will then change the oil from the break in mixture to normal. Filter too.
If the car still sounds like a bag of bolts under acceleration, I will assume I have an oil supply or pressure issue.
At that point I may give up and try to find somebody within towing distance from my hometown to figure all out.
It's either that or sell the car. In the two years I've owned it I really haven't been able to drive it that much. Not a quality that I look for in a car.
That sounds like detonation to me.
Maybe post up what you've done about that.
 
Will double check lash all the way around. Will then change the oil from the break in mixture to normal. Filter too.
If the car still sounds like a bag of bolts under acceleration, I will assume I have an oil supply or pressure issue.

"Preload" is set using this chart to make sure you're on the backside of the lobe.
BBM-Mopar-Valve-Lash-Adjustment-Chart.jpg


1/2 to 3/4 turn on the adjuster after pushrod play has been eliminated.

What is your timing set at? Has TDC been verified?

While you have your valve covers off check your oil supply to the rockers with the engine running.
 
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I cut the shafts into pieces and removed the rockers.
Everything else looked great, so reinstalled with new lifters and shafts with original rockers.
Set lash.
After break in, car idles and runs great but has hellacious (I think) valvetrain noise with any load applied. No way it's detonation. Means that the detonation I've been chasing for the past 2 years was probably valtrain noise the whole time. Idle and cruise is fine. Revving is fine. Leaving from a stoplight, though, and it sounds like marbles.
Valve covers are leaking so pulling them off tomorrow. Will double check lash all the way around. Will then change the oil from the break in mixture to normal. Filter too.
If the car still sounds like a bag of bolts under acceleration, I will assume I have an oil supply or pressure issue.
At that point I may give up and try to find somebody within towing distance from my hometown to figure all out.
It's either that or sell the car. In the two years I've owned it I really haven't been able to drive it that much. Not a quality that I look for in a car.
Valvetrain noise won't change with load. Are you sure don't have an exhaust leak at the head? Generally a exhaust leak makes way more noise under load. Easy to check. Get a piece of small hose. Have someone brake torque the car slightly. Listen by placing the hose around the exhaust/head juction with the other end near you ear. If it's leaking the noise will be quite loud and easy to pin point. If it doesn't have a leak it might be a good idea to have someone that is well versed with engines to have a listen.
Doug
 
That sounds like detonation to me.
Maybe post up what you've done about that.

The ignition system is electronic and adjusted via Sniper 2. It didn't make this noise before the R&R. I used to have a slight bit of detonation under certain circumstances. The tuner got as much out as he could. It would still, occasionally, rear it's ugly head, but NOTHING like this. Funny:. Looking through all of the paperwork from the previous owner and it looks like he had the car in a shop for detonation issues.
Nothing with the ignition system has been changed during all of this.
I am wondering if all of the zinc additive I added for break-in may have affected my O2 sensor. I could believe it's contaminated and falsely reading rich so the car could be pulling fuel. I have read a ton of zinc can mess up an O2 sensor.
I haven't had a chance to run a data log to see what the injectors are doing.
I will try to do that tomorrow, also.
"Preload" is set using this chart to make sure you're on the backside of the lobe.
View attachment 1816508

1/2 to 3/4 turn on the adjuster after pushrod play has been eliminated.

What is your timing set at? Has TDC been verified?

While you have your valve covers off check your oil supply to the rockers with the engine running.

I assumed preload would be adjusted with each cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke, when the valves were fully closed (as with all the OHC valves I've adjusted). It's the only way I was able to get the push rods in with the adjusters two to three threads out.
When I started, I used the chart you posted. I was not able to get the push rod under the rocker for cylinder eight exhaust. User error. I will try again tomorrow.
Valvetrain noise won't change with load. Are you sure don't have an exhaust leak at the head? Generally a exhaust leak makes way more noise under load. Easy to check. Get a piece of small hose. Have someone brake torque the car slightly. Listen by placing the hose around the exhaust/head juction with the other end near you ear. If it's leaking the noise will be quite loud and easy to pin point. If it doesn't have a leak it might be a good idea to have someone that is well versed with engines to have a listen.
Doug
100% not an exhaust leak. This is metallic.


My poor guy has been sitting in the driveway, under a car cover, in the rain. One of my other cas is taking up the entire garage for the next few weeks, during a repair. I feel bad enough about that. Now the damned thing won't drive right lol
I had somebody stop by and offer to buy it. I wasn't interested in even hearing the offer. If he comes by before I get this thing running again, I might have to give it some consideration.

20240709_131120.jpg
 
The ignition system is electronic and adjusted via Sniper 2. It didn't make this noise before the R&R. I used to have a slight bit of detonation under certain circumstances. The tuner got as much out as he could. It would still, occasionally, rear it's ugly head, but NOTHING like this. Funny:. Looking through all of the paperwork from the previous owner and it looks like he had the car in a shop for detonation issues.
Nothing with the ignition system has been changed during all of this.
I am wondering if all of the zinc additive I added for break-in may have affected my O2 sensor. I could believe it's contaminated and falsely reading rich so the car could be pulling fuel. I have read a ton of zinc can mess up an O2 sensor.
I haven't had a chance to run a data log to see what the injectors are doing.
I will try to do that tomorrow, also.


I assumed preload would be adjusted with each cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke, when the valves were fully closed (as with all the OHC valves I've adjusted). It's the only way I was able to get the push rods in with the adjusters two to three threads out.
When I started, I used the chart you posted. I was not able to get the push rod under the rocker for cylinder eight exhaust. User error. I will try again tomorrow.

100% not an exhaust leak. This is metallic.


My poor guy has been sitting in the driveway, under a car cover, in the rain. One of my other cas is taking up the entire garage for the next few weeks, during a repair. I feel bad enough about that. Now the damned thing won't drive right lol
I had somebody stop by and offer to buy it. I wasn't interested in even hearing the offer. If he comes by before I get this thing running again, I might have to give it some consideration.

View attachment 1816595
Drain the tank and refill with 110 octane and see if it helps
 
Drain the tank and refill with 110 octane and see if it helps

I hope not. Looking at the information I can find for the engine build, the compression shouldn't be that high. When I did a compression check, I was only seeing about 155 on each cylinder.
 
Update: pulled 2° of timing out and the noise seems to have went away. Finally a win for the home team lol
 
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