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Tremec 5 speed conversion in a 1970 Charger

Yeah, I'm not a quick as I use to be... But even on my best day I'm not sure I could have fired the engine up then unbolted the flywheel....... Actually I'm quite sure I couldn't...
:rofl:
:lol:
Grab that rascal by the fan belt and let 'er rip, tater chip! :)
 
Why the heck would a crank manufacturer make a crank out of spec for the specific application?
Did they think customers would always run an automatic behind their product?
 
Why the heck would a crank manufacturer make a crank out of spec for the specific application?
Did they think customers would always run an automatic behind their product?

Honestly I'm surprised the flex plate fit... They are normally a very close fit too....
 
Honestly I'm surprised the flex plate fit... They are normally a very close fit too....
I've had the 4.15 crank since 2004. I've only had this one flexplate on it and I'm sure I had to file it oversize. Maybe that is why THIS happened?
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Maybe my backyard clearance job had some radial runout?
 
I think it may have been a factor, the bellhousing misalignment likely also contributed...
 
My two local "Go-To" guys for machine work don't have the tools to machine this flywheel.
I will have to expand my search.

I talked to a tech guy at Silver Sport. Of COURSE they have never heard of such a thing as this.

Now what?

I talked with an employee from a respected machine shop here in the Sacramento area....He doesn't know how to do this. How do you index it to get it centered? If the hole is enlarged off center, would it affect the balance?
 
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Do you have another crank/engine to measure for comparison?
I measured 2 other cranks and came up with the same size as the flywheel holes. This 4.15 stroke Ching-Chong crank is the only one that measures larger.
I used the green Harbor Freight micrometer and came up with 2.1875.
 
To get the paint to stick, I need to rough up the surface. I could have taken the parts to a Bumper shop to have them DEchromed but who knows how long THAT would take? Plus...Who still does this in California? The only Chrome shop I know of is quite expensive.
I decided to sandblast the parts.

I have THIS pressure pot:

View attachment 1051000 View attachment 1051001 View attachment 1051002 View attachment 1051003
But the hose was blocked. Remember this topic?
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/sandblaster-replacement-hose.209528/
I've got the same sandblaster. I've had it for 13 years and now it needs a new hose. I think I've found it at the local hardware store.
 
I may have some luck. A shop that came recommended can do it on their lathe. The man says he can do it next week. I didn't even ask a price. If it is under $300, I will feel lucky.
 
Ok. SS is out of the woods on qc then. Cutting the wheel for sure will be easier than working the crank. Have to remember that if you swap it to something else down the road. You did your flex plate like I would have too when frustrated and not wanting to reinvent the wheel. Years ago on my dually I had the wheels powder coated. Put new tires on. Went to mount them up and they didn't want to go over the hub registers. I was in a pinch and needed to get home so I just pulled them down with the impact. 10k miles later I went to do a tire rotation. Could not get the wheels off even using a porta power pushing between them. Had to get the hot wrench out and melt the powder around the center holes so they would come off. Lesson learned!
 
Wow. What regular guy would expect that powder coating was thick enough to be a problem?

The machinist I spoke with wanted the crank measured as accurately as I can. I bought a stainless steel dial caliper to get there.
I don't want to be a hack or do sloppy work.
Why the heck would a crank manufacturer make a crank out of spec for the specific application?
Did they think customers would always run an automatic behind their product?

It is strange. I must have taken a file to the flexplate way back when it was new and just assumed that it was smaller than it was supposed to be.
This obstacle is partly why I started this thread topic. Sometimes we buy some kit to improve our cars and the instructions rarely mention the troubles that you might have. These things do happen and it is better to know beforehand than to find out while you are neck deep.
Now I am at a spot where I will be waiting for at least a week to get this flywheel machined to size. It isn't a complete snafu though. I can order the drive shaft....who knows how long that will take to build and ship. The clutch master cylinder needs to be bled. The tunnel patch needs seam sealer on the inside. The console top plates need to be painted. The carpet needs to go in.
I'm not totally at a standstill.
 
I may have some luck. A shop that came recommended can do it on their lathe. The man says he can do it next week. I didn't even ask a price. If it is under $300, I will feel lucky.
If he charges anywhere close to that he's ripping you off! I put a 440 crank in my lathe, indicated it and machined 4 throws to fit a 400 block in less then half an hour. Machining your flywheel will take more set up time then machining.
 
Here are the numbers of the crank hub :

SST 405.JPG


This looks like 2.178 to me. Am I right?

The A/T flexplate is a bit beat up.

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I measured it in several places.
SST 407.JPG


I am going to bring this in along with the manual flywheel.
Bonehead logic tells me that it makes sense to machine the flywheel to the smallest measurement on the flexplate.
 
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