Tremec 5 speed conversion in a 1970 Charger

[Kern Dog]

The clutch disc and pressure plate were installed. The bolts were torqued in a criss cross pattern and to spec. The disc only fits one way. With it the wrong way, the hub hits the flywheel bolts and the disc won't sit flat against the flywheel face. There were no stickers on the disc like I've seen before, maybe because in this case, proper fitment was obvious.

 

[Kern Dog]

The hose for the clutch master cylinder reservoir was cut to length and slipped into place.

I decided to use studs for the backwards bolts.

 

[Kern Dog]

Bellhousing in place. I thought it was the last time....

The instructions then require a measurement of the depth from the face of the bellhousing to the fingers on the pressure plate.

Using a straight-edge, take the measurement and record it. Mine was 3 7/16" .

 

[CoronetDarter]

Don't tell me - instructions say depth not to exceed 3 1/4"

 

[Kern Dog]

I don't recall a warning other than the importance of the distance between the bell depth and the throwout bearing height.

Next was to measure the hydraulic throwout bearing depth.
The green in the left side of the picture is the boot. The bearing gets compressed, then the distance is measured from the trans face to the compressed throwout bearing face.

The number I got on the throwout bearing was 3 5/16". The difference between the two was the minimum of 1/8".

 

[CoronetDarter]

Whew! Close enough for government work.

 

[Kern Dog]

As I stated, I thought the bellhousing was on for good BUT the instructions show to remove it to install the hydraulic line and side cover.

The side cover has a foam gasket to seal out grime, dirt, etc.

Those small grommets.....I wondered for a moment how I was supposed to get the hydraulic fitting through. I pulled the top grommet from the cover and slipped it over the fitting , fished the line through the cover and pressed the grommet into place. The bolt to retain the cover was about 1/4" too short so I grabbed a longer one from the stash.

Look closely, you can see the bleeder valve pointing down on the line.

 

[Kern Dog]

The bottom grommet and hole have no purpose as far as I can tell.

 

[Kern Dog]

Now the bell comes off and the throwout bearing stays with it.

The 90 degree end of the line will attach to the clutch master cylinder where the yellow plug is visible.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I believe the second hole is from a previous design T/O bearing that used a second hose as the bleeder line..

 

[Kern Dog]

Before I install the transmission, I will need to solder some wires. The speed sensor....

Those two wires will get extended and attached to these wires:

Remember, I have an aftermarket instrument panel made by Dakota Digital. The speedometer wires they provide are red, black and white. A call to the man determined that the red wire can be omitted. This leaves the white and black with the polarity being unimportant.

 

[Kern Dog]

The reverse light sender is on the left side of the transmission case. It is also a 2 wire. The factory wiring is a 3 wire. I recall that the middle terminal is ground and the outer terminals are power with polarity again unimportant. This should mean that I'll connect to the middle and one side terminal.

The clutch master cylinder will be bled in place.
The wires will be left a little long to allow for some ease of installation or possible future removal.
I called to order the drive shaft today. I should have called 2 weeks ago. I don't know why I waited. I had the transmission in place to determine the floor and tunnel modifications. No biggie though. I am enjoying the journey here.

 

[chargervert]

It's coming together now KD!

 

[dadsbee]

NO.... 3 wire from automatic. Outside two wires are reverse lights.. center is ground for neutral safety solenoid, so ground your solenoid so it works and reverse switch uses the outer two wires on that 3 wire plug.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Apparently DadsBee kicked my ***.... LOL

The reverse light sender is on the left side of the transmission case. It is also a 2 wire. The factory wiring is a 3 wire. I recall that the middle terminal is ground and the outer terminals are power with polarity again unimportant. This should mean that I'll connect to the middle and one side terminal.

Negative.... The two outside wires are what you want.. The center wire normally is grounded in the transmission when the shifter is in Park or neutral.... It should be attached to a clutch pedal switch...

 

[5.7 hemi]

Neutral safety switches didn’t come along till 70’ for 4 speeds?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Neutral safety switches didn’t come along till 70’ for 4 speeds?

70 M/T has a clutch safety switch... 69 & earlier starts in gear... I've seen to many cars damaged to not suggest using a clutch safety switch...

 

[Kern Dog]

Safety is for idiots.

 

[Kern Dog]

Thanks for the heads up on the wiring.

 

[Kern Dog]

70 M/T has a clutch safety switch... 69 & earlier starts in gear... I've seen to many cars damaged to not suggest using a clutch safety switch...

I could rig up a momentary switch that temporarily grounds the yellow terminal on the starter relay for starting the car but that would confuse anyone that ever drove the car but me. I do hope to teach the Wife to drive a stick in THIS car!