Tremec 5 speed conversion in a 1970 Charger

[Kern Dog]

I should have mentioned toward the start that there will be some stuff covered here that may be unique to this car and not necessarily something that you will encounter if you decide to install one of these kits.
Sorry if some of the posts seem boring or fundamental. I'm just trying to be as complete as I can in the hopes that it might save someone some frustration down the road. I am a big believer in wanting to know all the information up front so I can be ready or at least ask someone who might have a "workaround".
Yesterday was a lazy day but I was back out there today.
The hydraulic clutch master cylinder now has clear space to be bolted up. The wiring that was in the way has been relocated to go through the firewall in other places that turned out to be better anyway. The clutch and brake pedals are in so here we go. No more obstacles, right? Heh heh heh...
Old picture below but do you see that 3/16" thick flat lever on the column? For the 1970 model cars, It is part of the steering column lock. It ties in with the floor shift linkage so that the ignition key cannot be inserted or removed unless the automatic cars are in PARK or the manual trans cars are in REVERSE. This 5 speed swap uses a transmission with internal linkage so there is no way to integrate the system to the linkage.

I would just leave it if it weren't for the interference it poses for the clutch master cylinder:

Oh well....I didn't need it there anyway.....

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I love the B5 blue, and pair it with those Cragar SS rims...AWESOME!!! Next time I am in Atwater, we need to have lunch.

Atwater is Hikin Mike... Granite Bay is a good 2 hour drive... I'm somewhere in the middle of those two locations...

 

[Ironbuilt]

I should have mentioned toward the start that there will be some stuff covered here that may be unique to this car and not necessarily something that you will encounter if you decide to install one of these kits.
Sorry if some of the posts seem boring or fundamental. I'm just trying to be as complete as I can in the hopes that it might save someone some frustration down the road. I am a big believer in wanting to know all the information up front so I can be ready or at least ask someone who might have a "workaround".
Yesterday was a lazy day but I was back out there today.
The hydraulic clutch master cylinder now has clear space to be bolted up. The wiring that was in the way has been relocated to go through the firewall in other places that turned out to be better anyway. The clutch and brake pedals are in so here we go. No more obstacles, right? Heh heh heh...
Old picture below but do you see that 3/16" thick flat lever on the column? For the 1970 model cars, It is part of the steering column lock. It ties in with the floor shift linkage so that the ignition key cannot be inserted or removed unless the automatic cars are in PARK or the manual trans cars are in REVERSE. This 5 speed swap uses a transmission with internal linkage so there is no way to integrate the system to the linkage.

View attachment 1054606
I would just leave it if it weren't for the interference it poses for the clutch master cylinder:

View attachment 1054607

Oh well....I didn't need it there anyway.....

View attachment 1054609

That's why God made a cut-off wheel.

 

[Ironbuilt]

Atwater is Hikin Mike... Granite Bay is a good 2 hour drive... I'm somewhere in the middle of those two locations...

I didn't realize it was 2 hours. I know that I loaded in August in Atwater and it was hotter than the surface of the sun!!!
Where are you located?

 

[Ironbuilt]

Hey @Kern Dog Do you have a build thread for "Jigsaw"?

 

[Kern Dog]

The clutch master cylinder is a Wilwood unit with an adapter to fit the Mopar floor.

It would be great to just place it against the firewall and drill. This not possible with the engine in place and those two right side holes are right up against the wheelwell anyway.
Oh, the lower left bolt?

Trapped under the body of the master cylinder. You can't just set it against the firewall. You have to remove the adapter and separate the two, then get the bolt out.

I attached the clutch pushrod....

 

[Kern Dog]

Then I fed the pushrod through the firewall through the factory hole....

Attached the end to the clutch pedal, used the gold cadmium plate for a template...

The threaded pushrod was adjusted so that the clutch and brake pedals were close in height.....

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I didn't realize it was 2 hours. I know that I loaded in August in Atwater and it was hotter than the surface of the sun!!!
Where are you located?

Modesto, AKA Methdesto, AKA Molesto... 30-40 years ago it was a great little farming community & the home of Gallo Wines and American Graffiti.... These days it's better known for criminals like Scott Peterson, Cary Stayner Plus Gary Condit/Chandra Levy

 

[Kern Dog]

I'm waiting on the clutch pedal UP-Stop but there seems to be a lot of clearance from the pedal to the bracket...

I may have to make an extension once I get the Up-Stop.
I hope that the clutch has enough travel as it is. If I need more and it raises the pedal, I'll do something to raise the brake pedal too. I don't like seeing uneven pedals!

Lookie how much more room there is for the master cylinder with that steering column lever gone!

 

[Kern Dog]

Hey @Kern Dog Do you have a build thread for "Jigsaw"?

Oh yeah.....

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/lookie-what-5000-buys-you.178346/

I live next to Folsom Lake and Folsom Prison!

 

[watermelon]

hey Kern...your kit did come with the paper template to make the floor pan cuts correct?

it takes the guesswork out of the game

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...-coronet-sst-kit.180010/page-4#post-911452566


b5 blue is sweet



watermelon

 

[Kern Dog]

The clutch master cylinder uses this remote reservoir:

It has a bracket that allows it to be mounted in a convenient place:

I disconnected the trans cooler lines and shift linkage, then the Bouchillon Kickdown cable. That has worked flawlessly for almost 20 years.
Now draining the ATF:

 

[Kern Dog]

hey Kern...your kit did come with the paper template to make the floor pan cuts correct?

it takes the guesswork out of the game

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...-coronet-sst-kit.180010/page-4#post-911452566


b5 blue is sweet



watermelon

You mentioned using every tool in the box....NO kidding!
Yeah, I got a paper template with reference points for the floor cutting.

 

[Kern Dog]

With the clutch stuff figured out on the inside, I can now put the fresh air vent back in. The gasket was still soft and pliable so I cemented it in place with some weatherstrip adhesive and let it set up.

 

[69_Coronet]

Just wanted to say I am enjoying this thread. I plan to do a 5 speed swap on my Coronet, so this is all good info for me. Thanks.

 

[NJRR]

The clutch master cylinder uses this remote reservoir:

View attachment 1054643 View attachment 1054644
It has a bracket that allows it to be mounted in a convenient place:

Question? Does the clutch master cylinder remote reservoir interfere with the spring clip to remove the cover of the brake master cylinder?

 

[chargervert]

I should have mentioned toward the start that there will be some stuff covered here that may be unique to this car and not necessarily something that you will encounter if you decide to install one of these kits.
Sorry if some of the posts seem boring or fundamental. I'm just trying to be as complete as I can in the hopes that it might save someone some frustration down the road. I am a big believer in wanting to know all the information up front so I can be ready or at least ask someone who might have a "workaround".
Yesterday was a lazy day but I was back out there today.
The hydraulic clutch master cylinder now has clear space to be bolted up. The wiring that was in the way has been relocated to go through the firewall in other places that turned out to be better anyway. The clutch and brake pedals are in so here we go. No more obstacles, right? Heh heh heh...
Old picture below but do you see that 3/16" thick flat lever on the column? For the 1970 model cars, It is part of the steering column lock. It ties in with the floor shift linkage so that the ignition key cannot be inserted or removed unless the automatic cars are in PARK or the manual trans cars are in REVERSE. This 5 speed swap uses a transmission with internal linkage so there is no way to integrate the system to the linkage.

View attachment 1054606
I would just leave it if it weren't for the interference it poses for the clutch master cylinder:

View attachment 1054607

Oh well....I didn't need it there anyway.....

View attachment 1054609

For many years I used a carburator return spring to keep that lever in the proper spot so the key switch would turn without having to turn the lower collet ,because I discarded all that anti theft linkage.

 

[Kern Dog]

Question? Does the clutch master cylinder remote reservoir interfere with the spring clip to remove the cover of the brake master cylinder?

I guess I will find out!

 

[747mopar]

I'm waiting on the clutch pedal UP-Stop but there seems to be a lot of clearance from the pedal to the bracket...

View attachment 1054620 View attachment 1054621

I may have to make an extension once I get the Up-Stop.
I hope that the clutch has enough travel as it is. If I need more and it raises the pedal, I'll do something to raise the brake pedal too. I don't like seeing uneven pedals!

Lookie how much more room there is for the master cylinder with that steering column lever gone!

View attachment 1054702

I remember welding a spacer to hold my pedals even as well, I believe it was welded to the clutch pedal where it hits the stop.

 

[ct71rr]

This is coming along nicely. Are you still planning on removing the hump in the rear outer wheelwells on this car?