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Tremec TKX 5-Speed Conversion

i have read this and kern dogs thread on the auto to manual conversion. i am putting a tkx into a 68 charger. i am in the process of putting in the patch panel. the car was console auto and i was planning on simply replacing auto top plate with manual. the question i have is how does the boot sst provided fit into the manual cut out on top plate. since there is no lower boot to seal the hole where the shifter comes thru the only thing to seal it is the boot they give you. it appears the boot would just stick thru the hole in manual plate. i believe the original boot attaches to top plate for a finished look. does anyone have some pictures of how this looks in their console. if it just sticks thru the top plate seems i need to make sure the patch to cover hole is tall enough to make it fit into top plate. it also seems like with the boot unattached to top plate it provides a good place for things to get dropped in there only to disappear lol. any insight appreciated.
 
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i ended up using some sound deadening around the tower area of the shifter underneath the console

did not use the supplied boot from the kit as that was for non-console cars

for the plate i did source a fresh boot from year one i think


watermelon
 
it’s interesting my shift connection is different than anyone’s even other tkx transmission. pic below. is the sound deadner what you used to seal water out of the hole cut for the shifter? the boot they provided barely fit over my shifter mechanism and required stretching to reach the tunnel patch. i guess it makes sense it’s for non console cars but they specifically ask all that info when i ordered so why send it? anyway not important i guess. so i wonder what they intended people with a console to seal the shift hole with?? i’m planning on calling them but there so much good experience with this on the site thought id also ask here.
i am thinking of using the console boot to seal water out and use factory boot on top attached to top plate for looks. not sure that will work but as low as the patch and shifter sits in console i think it might.

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google 1968 console shift some good example pics pop up

here’s one from our site

looks like you do not use the one you have but need only the plate boot. finish up the patch work and keep on moving. might be best to start up your own thread


watermelon
 
I was planning on buying a cheap boot off Amazon and let it live under my console. I'm curious if someone has a better idea.
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Question for the guys who have converted their cars to manual shift...or already have a 4 speed:

After much internal debate over the last few years I'm about to go ahead with a TKX conversion. One thought in my mind is hill starts or particularly reverse parking between parked cars on a grade.
How do you guys go about it? I use my car a lot and am often in the city and need to park. I've had at least 1 manual shift car for the last 30 odd years but all of them have had a conventional "hand brake".
emergency-brake.jpg


I rarely use the handbrake except when parked, as even on hills I just juggle the brake/clutch bite point to get away smoothly, but occasionally, especially on a very steep hill or if maneuvering when parking on a hill, I would use the hand brake in conjunction with the clutch. My current daily driver actually has "hill start assist" so holds the brakes for you until you get away. It feels like cheating to me, but does work well.

My question is how the heck do I use the footbrake/handle release as I would a hand brake on the odd occasion I would need it while driving?

I can't even reach the release handle when I'm buckled in (I've got fixed 3 point seatbelts, not inertia reel). I was thinking maybe I need to install a linelock or something? Any thoughts/experiences?
 
It is pretty flat where I live as well as where Rich (The OP of this thread) lives.
On hills though, I've always just released the clutch a bit quicker than usual and feathered the throttle and clutch pedal to keep from rolling back.
The new car Hill start assist probably helps those that are not skilled at driving a stick. I suppose the blind spot monitoring and automatic parking also helps those that can't drive worth a damn too.
Nanny state BS....Pfft!
 
You get use to it.. Now the big difference of driving say an 86 Toyota Turdcell with a stick is torque.. It takes a lot less throttle to get one of these cars going vs. the Turdcell.. But, after suspension and brakes, best upgrade ever on my Charger..
 
I have noticed people behind me stopping closer than I'd prefer whether it is flat ground or a hill. The small amount of manual transmission cars lead some people to not even consider leaving room for a slight roll-back.
 
I think I'm going to finally have to fix my parking brake though. It works great, but doesn't fully release. I have to quickly jump on the ground in a plank position and reach under the car and tweak the equalizer yoke (or whatever it's called - where the cables separate to each wheel).
I'll be using that brake a lot more as I won't be able to just pop it into park when I jump out with the engine running to close or open my shed door for instance (my driveway is sloping).
Really excited about the conversion, I've been looking at rear end ratios, mph and rpm relationships with the different options and will have to swap the 3.23 with 3.91 or 4.10 gears with the 2.87 - .68 gearbox.
 
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The modern Challengers had a 3.92 gear with the manual transmissions but they also had a .050 6th gear. The modern Hemi does need to rev a bit to make power so the 2.97 1st gear is a fair match in terms of gearing.
I have a 3.55, the OP has the same. It is actually a decent ratio for the TKO and TKX transmissions. The 2.87 1st gear will be pretty short with a 3.91 given the lower revving the big blocks need to make torque.

Here are the gear ratios of the Tremec 6 speed units in the Challengers. Note that the Hellcat versions have radically different ratios. The much more powerful Hellcat engine doesn't need as much mechanical leverage as the 5.7 and 6.4 engines.

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I have noticed people behind me stopping closer than I'd prefer whether it is flat ground or a hill. The small amount of manual transmission cars lead some people to not even consider leaving room for a slight roll-back.
I usually leave them in a cloud of Smoke..
 
I think I'm going to finally have to fix my parking brake though. It works great, but doesn't fully release. I have to quickly jump on the ground in a plank position and reach under the car and tweak the equalizer yoke (or whatever it's called - where the cables separate to each wheel).
I'll be using that brake a lot more as I won't be able to just pop it into park when I jump out with the engine running to close or open my shed door for instance (my driveway is sloping).
Really excited about the conversion, I've been looking at rear end ratios, mph and rpm relationships with the different options and will have to swap the 3.23 with 3.91 or 4.10 gears with the 2.87 - .68 gearbox.
I want to try a 3:55 or 3:73.. 5th gear is 75 mph plus with 3:23's
 
Tremec have got a handy calculator online for working out ratios and rear ends / tire sizes. This morning I created this rough comparison for my set up - I want to cruise at about 2,600rpm as that's where the cam will be working, and I usually shift at 5,000rpm at the track.
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Question for the guys who have converted their cars to manual shift...or already have a 4 speed:

After much internal debate over the last few years I'm about to go ahead with a TKX conversion. One thought in my mind is hill starts or particularly reverse parking between parked cars on a grade.
How do you guys go about it? I use my car a lot and am often in the city and need to park. I've had at least 1 manual shift car for the last 30 odd years but all of them have had a conventional "hand brake".
View attachment 1690480

I rarely use the handbrake except when parked, as even on hills I just juggle the brake/clutch bite point to get away smoothly, but occasionally, especially on a very steep hill or if maneuvering when parking on a hill, I would use the hand brake in conjunction with the clutch. My current daily driver actually has "hill start assist" so holds the brakes for you until you get away. It feels like cheating to me, but does work well.

My question is how the heck do I use the footbrake/handle release as I would a hand brake on the odd occasion I would need it while driving?

I can't even reach the release handle when I'm buckled in (I've got fixed 3 point seatbelts, not inertia reel). I was thinking maybe I need to install a linelock or something? Any thoughts/experiences?
I drove a 1967 Impala 4-speed clutch car with foot e-brake / hand release for 20 years and had no problem taking off on hills. If it was a small hill, no use of the e-brake, get the RPM's up and be quick on the brake to clutch pedal switch. On medium or steeper hills, keep e-brake on until car is pulling hard against the brake and pull the e-brake release lever. Now if you can't reach the release lever, that's a problem...I like the line lock idea.
 
I drove a 1967 Impala 4-speed clutch car with foot e-brake / hand release for 20 years and had no problem taking off on hills. If it was a small hill, no use of the e-brake, get the RPM's up and be quick on the brake to clutch pedal switch. On medium or steeper hills, keep e-brake on until car is pulling hard against the brake and pull the e-brake release lever. Now if you can't reach the release lever, that's a problem...I like the line lock idea.
If it's really an issue it wouldn't be to difficult to add a solenoid to release the parking brake.... just a little push button switch near the shifter....

Something like this mounted to the parking brake release lever..

Electric-Life 99040 Electric-Life 45 lb. Series Solenoids | Summit Racing
 
It is pretty flat where I live as well as where Rich (The OP of this thread) lives.
On hills though, I've always just released the clutch a bit quicker than usual and feathered the throttle and clutch pedal to keep from rolling back.
The new car Hill start assist probably helps those that are not skilled at driving a stick. I suppose the blind spot monitoring and automatic parking also helps those that can't drive worth a damn too.
Nanny state BS....Pfft!
Except for my RAM pickup, all my cars are manual trans. As Greg said, it's fairly flat where we live, although I've driven the cars up into the Sierra mountains and surrounding foothills. With the Coronet's 440, there's enough torque to get the car moving on a hill without much effort. And with the hydraulic clutch in play, the car takes off almost as soon as the clutch pedal is released. Honestly, I don't think you'll need the e-brake to prevent the car from rolling backwards.
 
Really excited about the conversion, I've been looking at rear end ratios, mph and rpm relationships with the different options and will have to swap the 3.23 with 3.91 or 4.10 gears with the 2.87 - .68 gearbox.
With the TKX, the Coronet just loafs on the freeway in 5th gear. It's such a game changer going from the 3 spd auto to the TKX. I'm seriously considering swapping out the 3.55
's for a set of 3.91's.
My Dart has a TKO 5 spd with 4.10's; although its a 360/380 hp crate Magnum and needs rpm's to get into it's wheelhouse. But even with the 4.10's, it cruises effortlessly on the freeway.
 
I think I have a set of 3.91 gears here, though I’m pretty sure it is a one legger.
I have a couple of Sure Grip differentials too. I could grab a pile of stuff and take it to my axle guy In Rancho Cordova. I’ve had him merge random parts from different third members and axles to make complete units.
I have a stroked 440 in mine so I dont know that I’d benefit much from more axle gearing than I have. A 383 or stock stroke 440 might though.
 
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