Tremec TKX 5-Speed Conversion
- Thread starter CoronetDarter
- Start date
Yes, it was in the kit. Looks like an OEM cable with a different terminal at the transmission.
That's the bracket; those are better pics than I took. The tricky one is the bottom left corner of the bottom pic. Two tubular brackets attach to the bolt at a right angle, leading up to two other attachment points that have to be loosened so they can be swung out of the way. 60's safety origami.
Back in 2013, the Coronet's under dash looked like these pics. While the car was stripped down I sanded, cleaned, and painted every component. The brake assembly, brake cage, E-brake pedal assy, wiper motor arms, air vent box all got treated. Ten years later its still like I'm working on a new car.
Final notes on the bracket assembly; the bolt heads/nuts are different sizes. Yep, some engineer designed it so that you need a 1/2" and 7/16" socket; its tight in there so use a 1/4" drive ratchet. And a 6" extension; but only on some of them. Good times, good times...
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The same thing on the Dart; the brake fluid was black from the aluminum shavings. One of the times I called SST for parts. It lasted over 20,000 miles. I looked at the Dart, and it's hard to see clearly because it's a tight fit, but I think the replacement is an OBP unit.
The thing is, when the m/c goes, the trans won't shift. It failed while I was about 20 miles from home; took the freeway most of the way which was okay, but on the surface streets I had to leave it in 3rd and coast through red lights, stop signs, etc. because it wouldn't have upshifted from 1st. That was an anxious drive home.
A big yes on this. The early TKO's,even granny shifting at 6,000 it would grind.Power shifts,no way would it go in gear.
I understand they are much better now.
Thank you for this. I have a friend thinking of swapping his 727 for the SST kit.
I think I'll tell him to join B Bodies Only and read your posts. Thanks again.
That's what this site is all about. Have him find and bookmark @Kern Dog 's TKO thread too, its the definitive How To on the subject.
Do you remember the Wilwood item number for that cylinder and what master cylinder stroke did you go with?
BMosely
Well-Known Member
I need to correct the above post and will. The .750” slave gives the harder pedal and shorter stroke. The .625” is what SST provides and is a longer stroke and softer pedal. The larger diameter shaft moves the same fluid volume over a shorter stroke.
Here is the .625” model. Should be similar for the other.
I have the .750” in the car now.
Here is the .625” model. Should be similar for the other.
I have the .750” in the car now.
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I just thought of this and wanted to mention it....
The drive shaft takes a little time to order and receive. I did a trial fitment of the transmission (without the clutch and pressure plate) so I could measure for the driveshaft awhile before I'd need it. I suggest the same for this project. I also found that the difference between the length with the tires hanging down versus the axle at standard ride height was zero. They tell you to measure with the car resting on it's tires but for me, it made no difference.
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I just looked back....It took 3 1/2 weeks to get my drive shaft. I called on January 22 and received it February 17th. It makes sense to get out ahead on this. Mine was 58 9/16". A Coronet should be the same but it will be smart to measure and be sure.
The drive shaft takes a little time to order and receive. I did a trial fitment of the transmission (without the clutch and pressure plate) so I could measure for the driveshaft awhile before I'd need it. I suggest the same for this project. I also found that the difference between the length with the tires hanging down versus the axle at standard ride height was zero. They tell you to measure with the car resting on it's tires but for me, it made no difference.
EDIT*****************
I just looked back....It took 3 1/2 weeks to get my drive shaft. I called on January 22 and received it February 17th. It makes sense to get out ahead on this. Mine was 58 9/16". A Coronet should be the same but it will be smart to measure and be sure.
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This is good to know Greg, thanks for the information. Specially when you can take advantage of a 10% off at summit racing before the end of the year to purchase parts like driveshafts.
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That's a great idea; I'll keep this handy in case I need to make one. I take it the nut and bolt threads on the back of the stop clear the firewall. In the pictures the depth of the bolt looks longer than the depth of the mounting bracket.
So two members, @BMosely and @Mopar Hunter independently warned against the OBP m/c. And Wilwood is a respected brand. Good enough for me, I'm ordering the .750 Wilwood m/c. Given the choice, I'll go with the shorter, firmer pedal. Thank you both.
I was going to have Driveline Service in West Sac shorten and rebalance the existing driveshaft. I've used them for the Dart. They do good work and should only take a few days.
earlymopar
Well-Known Member
It's sure interesting to see where some of us are with gear ratios and how spread out we are across a large range. Of course there are several factors. I'm running a TKO600 and 30.75" tire diameter and 4.56 ratio. I started with 4.1 ratio that Liberty's suggested and didn't like the outcome then messed around with calculating speeds, engine RPM in each gear. The 4.56 was obvious when looking at the numbers and real-world driving has proven the decision to be correct.
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
I sure that's true... These days I tend to gear for cruising, lots of highway miles... With 4.56 your 1st gear is 13-1, the tall tire softens that some but I imagine that first shift still comes pretty quick...
My red Challenger has 4:30's so I get that the O/D makes stiff gearing completely acceptable for the highway, your first gear is considerably deeper than mine but my tire is 28" tall so it's probably a wash...
At some point I plan to ditch the 4.30's but since US Gear no longer makes a 3.73 for Mopar it looks like I'll probably be going to 3.55...
earlymopar
Well-Known Member
Surprisingly 1st to 2nd gear really doesn't come on too fast and you're right tire diameter is a big factor. I was amazed when I ran the numbers on each gear with the 4.56 ratio and still have a (calculated) 140 MPH top end in 5th.
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For my kit, the driveshaft was included. Did that change?
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