It was attached before I started disassembling the brake pedal. Now it's hanging from the top of the cage, just having trouble getting it into the groove on the dog bone. It'll try your method. Thanks.
Tremec TKX 5-Speed Conversion
- Thread starter CoronetDarter
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Dwayne's Plymouth didn't have one. mine didn't either.
Neither car was originally built with power brakes, both cars had manual drums originally. In his case, he had an aftermarket booster in the car when it arrived here. I didn't know such a spring existed so I didn't know I was missing anything.
With how much noise these cars make, I don't know that an anti-rattle spring would make much of a difference.
Neither car was originally built with power brakes, both cars had manual drums originally. In his case, he had an aftermarket booster in the car when it arrived here. I didn't know such a spring existed so I didn't know I was missing anything.
With how much noise these cars make, I don't know that an anti-rattle spring would make much of a difference.
Greg, same attachment set as mine. SST went with nuts and bolts instead of the OEM style stud plate. Probably to shave the $20 off the kit price.
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Maybe because the hydraulic clutch places less stress on the firewall and more on the slave cylinder, they "assumed" there would be less risk of stretching the firewall?
Diaphragm style clutches help a lot too...
Started on removing the auto. Got to Greg's house around 10:30 this morning and of course the first order of business is taking out the cars. I wanted to Greg to drive the Coronet with the auto to get his thoughts. Judging by the tire patches he threw down, I think he enjoyed the drive.
Greg's Charger is a beast. Over 3000 rpm and the engine pulls like a raped ape. He laid into it a few times and next thing I know, I'm watching oncoming traffic from my side window.
But eventually we had to get down to work. We're three bell housing bolts from dropping the tranny.
Not in any particular order, we dropped the driveshaft, dropped the front of the exhaust because the H pipe is in the way of the tail housing. Drained the pan, disconnected the A/T temp gauge, cooler lines, kickdown linkage. I have a trans cooler in front of the radiator so that was a couple more hoses. Removed the two starter bolts and disconnected the batt cable and brown solenoid wire. The battery is in the trunk and I repurposed the manual trans grommet for the 1/0 cable; I'll have to reroute it much like Greg did.
The flex plate was attached to the converter with 12 pt ARP bolts. A 12 pt box wrench and rubber mallet while Greg held the crank bolt broke them free.
Car has a Tanks Inc. baffled tank with electric fuel pump. Here's a shot of the fuel filter, and the pinion snubber.
Tranny pan is a B&M; deep walled with fins, sending unit and drain plug.
Two guys working hard.
Greg's Charger is a beast. Over 3000 rpm and the engine pulls like a raped ape. He laid into it a few times and next thing I know, I'm watching oncoming traffic from my side window.
But eventually we had to get down to work. We're three bell housing bolts from dropping the tranny.
Not in any particular order, we dropped the driveshaft, dropped the front of the exhaust because the H pipe is in the way of the tail housing. Drained the pan, disconnected the A/T temp gauge, cooler lines, kickdown linkage. I have a trans cooler in front of the radiator so that was a couple more hoses. Removed the two starter bolts and disconnected the batt cable and brown solenoid wire. The battery is in the trunk and I repurposed the manual trans grommet for the 1/0 cable; I'll have to reroute it much like Greg did.
The flex plate was attached to the converter with 12 pt ARP bolts. A 12 pt box wrench and rubber mallet while Greg held the crank bolt broke them free.
Car has a Tanks Inc. baffled tank with electric fuel pump. Here's a shot of the fuel filter, and the pinion snubber.
Tranny pan is a B&M; deep walled with fins, sending unit and drain plug.
Two guys working hard.
Last edited:
Now that's a Mopar garage. Greg's Charger in the foreground, my car on the lift, and @68 Sport Satellite in the middle.
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Dwayne missed out on a good time today. I had a great time wrenching with a fellow Mopar guy. I suspect that Rich wished that I wouldn't talk so damn much but I was really enjoying the day.
It has been at least a year since I worked on another Mopar with buddies and it was a lowly 65 Valiant convertible. No offense to the A body guys but the early A body cars just aren't interesting to me like these B bodies are.
For the first time ever, I had a '68, '69 and a '70 B body in the shop. It also occurred to me that from 1968-70, Dodge had two specific and different 2 door B body models...The Coronet and the Charger. The fenders, doors, quarters and roof panels were unique to each.
Plymouth had the same body shell for the Belvedere, Satellite, Sport Satellite and GTX.
This Coronet was the 6th B body that I have driven and each one was different. The first was my red car, second was a '68 Satellite station wagon, 3rd was @DennisH 69 Coronet R/T, 4th was Jigsaw. 5th was Dwayne's '68 Sport Satellite and this '69 Coronet is the 6th. Rich has massive rear tires but they spin and smoke quite well. I didn't mean to peel out the first time....it downshifted and broke loose, I swear.
With his permission, I stabbed it from a stop sign and though the tail end drifted right, I kept the front pointed ahead. The car seems to have more torque out of the hole compared to mine. The smaller cam some people go with is a blessing in disguise. What feels like playing it safe is actually a smart choice because it makes the car better for the street. The Big Blocks don't need to rev to 7500 rpms to make power so it makes no sense to use a cam that comes alive at 3500 and peaks at 6500 or more.
Rich mentioned my red car...I have a cam that runs strong over 3000 rpms which is okay with a manual trans but still leaves a bit on the table for off idle performance and freeway cruising. After driving this Coronet and Dwayne's Plymouth, I'm getting closer to making a step down in camshaft to something with a power range in a more sensible zone. Both this Coronet and the Plymouth are better from idle to 3500 where the majority of our time is spent.
Driving another car is a great way to compare combinations that others have used. This car is 54 years old but drives like a fresh restoration. The sound deadening cuts down on the noise. The upgraded torsion bars and springs give a firm ride without rattling your teeth. His Firm Feel steering box has NONE of that dead zone in the 11:00 to 1:00 range like others have.
The 5 speed is going to be a great cherry on top of an already great car.
It has been at least a year since I worked on another Mopar with buddies and it was a lowly 65 Valiant convertible. No offense to the A body guys but the early A body cars just aren't interesting to me like these B bodies are.
For the first time ever, I had a '68, '69 and a '70 B body in the shop. It also occurred to me that from 1968-70, Dodge had two specific and different 2 door B body models...The Coronet and the Charger. The fenders, doors, quarters and roof panels were unique to each.
Plymouth had the same body shell for the Belvedere, Satellite, Sport Satellite and GTX.
This Coronet was the 6th B body that I have driven and each one was different. The first was my red car, second was a '68 Satellite station wagon, 3rd was @DennisH 69 Coronet R/T, 4th was Jigsaw. 5th was Dwayne's '68 Sport Satellite and this '69 Coronet is the 6th. Rich has massive rear tires but they spin and smoke quite well. I didn't mean to peel out the first time....it downshifted and broke loose, I swear.
With his permission, I stabbed it from a stop sign and though the tail end drifted right, I kept the front pointed ahead. The car seems to have more torque out of the hole compared to mine. The smaller cam some people go with is a blessing in disguise. What feels like playing it safe is actually a smart choice because it makes the car better for the street. The Big Blocks don't need to rev to 7500 rpms to make power so it makes no sense to use a cam that comes alive at 3500 and peaks at 6500 or more.
Rich mentioned my red car...I have a cam that runs strong over 3000 rpms which is okay with a manual trans but still leaves a bit on the table for off idle performance and freeway cruising. After driving this Coronet and Dwayne's Plymouth, I'm getting closer to making a step down in camshaft to something with a power range in a more sensible zone. Both this Coronet and the Plymouth are better from idle to 3500 where the majority of our time is spent.
Driving another car is a great way to compare combinations that others have used. This car is 54 years old but drives like a fresh restoration. The sound deadening cuts down on the noise. The upgraded torsion bars and springs give a firm ride without rattling your teeth. His Firm Feel steering box has NONE of that dead zone in the 11:00 to 1:00 range like others have.
The 5 speed is going to be a great cherry on top of an already great car.
Mopar Hunter
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Rich told me his cam specs, I don't recall specifics but it was something in the 230 degrees @ .050 range.
Mine is 261/271 Int/Exh @ .050. I didn't pick it, another guy suggested it back in 2014 when I was dealing with detonation. I bought into the trend of running a bigger cam to bleed off cylinder pressure.
It makes great top end power but is not as snappy from idle as the other cars are.
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I don't know the specifics of his cam. He surely went to bed by now but will probably chime in tomorrow.
Mopar Hunter
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You called him?
The man has to get up early for work....show some decency, man!
The man has to get up early for work....show some decency, man!
Mopar Hunter
Well-Known Member
No, I used the search function of this great forum. The search function is your friend.
Hughes (HUG 2045) Top End 440 Power Package
So, I was considering - down the road - of purchasing this package to upgrade my 440. In perusing YouTube, on an unrelated topic, I came across an individual who had posted a very critical video of Hughes products (heads, in particular), and it wasn't good, to say the least. Therefore, I'm...
www.forbbodiesonly.com
Besides, where would I get his phone number, is it next to yours in the men’s bathroom stall?
Sounds like a great time Rich and Greg! I wish I was there.
On my 68, I'm running the Lunati Voodoo 60302 with 112 LCA. After dyno tuning, at rear wheels (tires off and bolted onto dyno attachment) my motor made 391 hp / 523 ft-lb torque. With zero prior experience drag racing, out of 10 passes with Nitto 555R drag radials, my best was at Sac Raceway 90F temp, 12.80 sec at 108 mph. Car weighed 3700 lbs.
In retrospect, if I would have chosen my cam first and tailored the cylinders around that instead of the other way around, I probably would have gone 1 cam size up and have a motor that can take more than my current 32 degrees of timing.
Greg, besides the manual vs auto trans, did Dennis' 69 Coronet RT and Rich's 69 Coronet feel that much different? Dennis also has FF stage 2 steering. I've driven Dennis' car, but I'm surprised Rich's has no center slop. I hope it stays that way.
Brand:
Lunati
Manufacturer's Part Number:
60302
Part Type:
Camshafts
Product Line:
Lunati Voodoo Camshafts
Summit Racing Part Number:
LUN-60302
UPC:
090127606674
Cam Style:
Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:
1,400-5,700
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:
220
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:
226
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
220 int./226 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:
262
Advertised Exhaust Duration:
268
Advertised Duration:
262 int./268 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.475 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.494 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.475 int./0.494 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
112
Camshaft Gear Attachment:
3-bolt
Computer-Controlled Compatible:
No
Valve Springs Required:
Yes
Quantity:
Sold individually.
Notes:
3-bolt camshaft.
On my 68, I'm running the Lunati Voodoo 60302 with 112 LCA. After dyno tuning, at rear wheels (tires off and bolted onto dyno attachment) my motor made 391 hp / 523 ft-lb torque. With zero prior experience drag racing, out of 10 passes with Nitto 555R drag radials, my best was at Sac Raceway 90F temp, 12.80 sec at 108 mph. Car weighed 3700 lbs.
In retrospect, if I would have chosen my cam first and tailored the cylinders around that instead of the other way around, I probably would have gone 1 cam size up and have a motor that can take more than my current 32 degrees of timing.
Greg, besides the manual vs auto trans, did Dennis' 69 Coronet RT and Rich's 69 Coronet feel that much different? Dennis also has FF stage 2 steering. I've driven Dennis' car, but I'm surprised Rich's has no center slop. I hope it stays that way.
Brand:
Lunati
Manufacturer's Part Number:
60302
Part Type:
Camshafts
Product Line:
Lunati Voodoo Camshafts
Summit Racing Part Number:
LUN-60302
UPC:
090127606674
Cam Style:
Hydraulic flat tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:
1,400-5,700
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:
220
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:
226
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
220 int./226 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:
262
Advertised Exhaust Duration:
268
Advertised Duration:
262 int./268 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.475 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.494 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.475 int./0.494 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
112
Camshaft Gear Attachment:
3-bolt
Computer-Controlled Compatible:
No
Valve Springs Required:
Yes
Quantity:
Sold individually.
Notes:
3-bolt camshaft.
INTMD8
Well-Known Member
Is that still an original driveshaft? I'm pulling a 3.5" steel shaft out of my car this week that might work for you. TKO600 slip yoke so that's the same. 58" from back of trans to middle of rear u-joint. 54 1/2" j-joint center to center.
Rich,
Sorry I'm late to the party - I was on vacation in Italy and off the 'net for a few days.
I have a Passon A-855 overdrive, but the results should be the same - a car that is damn fun to drive and enjoy. I'm sure you will enjoy the swap!
Subscribed!
Sorry I'm late to the party - I was on vacation in Italy and off the 'net for a few days.
I have a Passon A-855 overdrive, but the results should be the same - a car that is damn fun to drive and enjoy. I'm sure you will enjoy the swap!
Subscribed!
Yesterday was very enjoyable, wouldn't change a thing. I'm usually working on the cars by myself so the conversation was a welcome respite.
The cam is a little small for the engine, but it was a compromise build. By comparison, the Dart is over-cammed. I suspect Dodge was just trying to gain max hp numbers for marketing purposes, at the expense of low-rpm drivability. I don't mind, but the lopey idle and below 2,000 rpm dead-zone made it a little intimidating for Maria to drive. The Coronet was built with horsepower and torque in mind, but with lower rpm drivability.
In the same vein, the suspension and chassis were updated to give performance handling. Maybe not on par with today's suspension technology, but ahead of what the factory offered in '69. While restoring the car, the K frame was out and I had the steering-gear mount boxed and the perimeter welds reinforced. The LCA's are boxed as well. The tie rods are C-body 9/16", with solid adjusters. The UCA is a PST tubular design. I stayed with rubber bushings instead of poly. Bilstein shocks on all four corners. I changed out the wimpy .88 T-bars to .96's. I think the Firm Feel Stage III rebuild was key to tying everything together. Stage III gives that "heavy" feel at low speeds similar to today's cars. And as Greg said, there's no slop at dead-center.
Italy huh! Did you drive there in the RR?Rich,
Sorry I'm late to the party - I was on vacation in Italy and off the 'net for a few days.
I have a Passon A-855 overdrive, but the results should be the same - a car that is damn fun to drive and enjoy. I'm sure you will enjoy the swap!
Subscribed!
That's the one.
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