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underhood heat

Threw it back in and started fine. The timing light works better now.

For fun, I decided to try the chinesium dist I had. Basically, it connects directly to the coil with the BR bypassed and the ECU disconnected. Started up easily and ran well, setting the timing at different spots between 12-18*. Seemed to like it around 15*, but still stumbles once it is warmed up. Needs a better coil I think. Going to pick up one next week, open the gap a bit and try it.

IMG_4899.JPG IMG_4900.JPG IMG_4946.JPG IMG_4948.JPG
 
On the first distributor, what's the 13R, on the slot plate mean? (Showing my ignorance)
That distributor looks like a stock Mopar unit. Later manuals should tell you what the gap should be at.
I'd have to do a bunch of reading, to figure how it comes together. Me too, on the glasses!

Wiring took some good heat. Wow!
 
Glenwood said:
I decided to pull the dist and check the mech advance. It is 13 (×2) so 26*. For now would it make sense to set initial lower at say 10-12 and manifold vac at around 6-8* if possible?
Click to expand...
Got it, now. :BangHead:

10 initial would get 36 total, mechanical. Be a starting point, anyway, if everything is working right.
 
Good article thanks Miller! Looks like my pick up is below the suggested spec, so maybe that needs to be replaced. I have a couple of spares that are within that spec so I may try one.
 
Just curious, while you had the Mopar distributor apart, did you note how much shaft sideplay there was? On those electronic units, sideplay is fairly critical...not too much. Think that write-up I posted mentions it.
The pivot points for the advance weights should have a little hi temp grease on them. I've seen those dry enough, to drag, or even lock up. Of course, that center felt needs oil.
Not that it'll cure your ignition probs, but helps keep new ones from coming up.

Gap is .008.
 
miller said:
Just curious, while you had the Mopar distributor apart, did you note how much shaft sideplay there was? On those electronic units, sideplay is fairly critical...not too much. Think that write-up I posted mentions it.
The pivot points for the advance weights should have a little hi temp grease on them. I've seen those dry enough, to drag, or even lock up. Of course, that center felt needs oil.
Not that it'll cure your ignition probs, but helps keep new ones from coming up.

Gap is .008.
Click to expand...


I didn't notice any side play Miller. Is this measurable at someplace along the shaft and what are the tolerances? The pivots are clean and slippery unlike some spare distributors I have.
 
Don Gould said:
You don't you use one of these, quick, easy and deadly accurateView attachment 525218
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Don. I've been reading the tech info on your website, really informative!
The limiter plate would make life easier and I'll want one of those when I decide to upgrade the system. For experimental and learning purposes, I took a spare 15* (30*) pivot guide and welded up the gap, filing down to .390 to get it to 9* (18*). Once I get a new coil, I'll try it out and see how it performs once warmed up. There's a noticeable stumble after the engine is at op temp upon unloaded acceleration. Doesn't seem to matter where the ims's are set or where the timing is set at. It'l like the coils start to fail at this point, or perhaps the orange box is failing. Tough to determine.
Going to pull the plugs to get a read on them.
 
Glenwood said:
Thanks for the info Don. I've been reading the tech info on your website, really informative!
The limiter plate would make life easier and I'll want one of those when I decide to upgrade the system. For experimental and learning purposes, I took a spare 15* (30*) pivot guide and welded up the gap, filing down to .390 to get it to 9* (18*). Once I get a new coil, I'll try it out and see how it performs once warmed up. There's a noticeable stumble after the engine is at op temp upon unloaded acceleration. Doesn't seem to matter where the ims's are set or where the timing is set at. It'l like the coils start to fail at this point, or perhaps the orange box is failing. Tough to determine.
Going to pull the plugs to get a read on them.
Click to expand...
 
What you're describing is a tip in stumble which is generally a lean condition which most commonly is caused from either too much timing too quick or a carb issue. Eddy 750's are not designed to work with your cam duration and are well know for this issue, it's a chronic problem and I refuse to get into tuning issues with Eddy Carbs.

Try adjusting the Primary and Secondary idle speed screws to balance the carb and get more fuel through the transfer slot earlier... wait.... I forgot they don't have that ability Try enriching the primary with the 4 corner AF ratio screws... sorry again they don't have that ability..... make the primary air bleed a little tighter.... whoops they don't have any adjustable air bleeds.... you get the picture?

7 Pages of flogging this issue and your not addressing the problem, you need to have a good ignition system and a proper carb nobody can fix this until you have the correct parts that can be tuned to your engine specs.

You know where my website is, go to the contacts Tab and email me "Book Request from B-Body's" and I'll send you a complimentary copy of my tuning guide, hopefully it will give you a better understanding of how to get your tune-up closer.
 
Thank you Don for taking the time to provide so much detailed info on this subject. It has been very informative to help me understand the cause and effect ignition and fuel can have on the engine.

My methods of addressing an issue is to try to find the root cause of a problem rather than just replace all components in which i do not really learn anything. The car has been running decent, although not optimal, for two months without issue and something changed. I just want to know what changed.
Over the winter i may upgrade the ignition system, rebuild a holley i have and try it out. I'm also thinking about replacing the intake with an eddy rpm if it will fit inder the hood.
I look at this as a learning opportunity much like my welding adventure a couple of years ago. All this input helps a great deal.
 
Glenwood said:
Thank you Don for taking the time to provide so much detailed info on this subject. It has been very informative to help me understand the cause and effect ignition and fuel can have on the engine.

My methods of addressing an issue is to try to find the root cause of a problem rather than just replace all components in which i do not really learn anything. The car has been running decent, although not optimal, for two months without issue and something changed. I just want to know what changed.
Over the winter i may upgrade the ignition system, rebuild a holley i have and try it out. I'm also thinking about replacing the intake with an eddy rpm if it will fit inder the hood.
I look at this as a learning opportunity much like my welding adventure a couple of years ago. All this input helps a great deal.
Click to expand...
Get the book I'm offering it for free maybe it will help you find the issue or at least eliminate a few possibilities
 
Glenwood said:
The car has been running decent, although not optimal, for two months without issue and something changed. I just want to know what changed.
Click to expand...
Troublemaker here...:poke:

That says for the main part, even with a lowly AFB, that don't need all the mentioned adjustments, can run. How well is up to the tuner.
Aww...just kidding. Same difference, distributors and carbs. Should use what's best for you. I'm not that 'up' on cams, so Don might be onto something. All has to work together.

You would use a dial indicator, to check shaft endplay.
 
Curious about your hot wire issue. Went back through your posts, so just asking, did you ever put a ground strap on, from motor to firewall?
 
miller said:
Curious about your hot wire issue. Went back through your posts, so just asking, did you ever put a ground strap on, from motor to firewall?
Click to expand...

Oh yeah, i made up a 1awg heavy duty cable from the motor to the firewall and added ground wires from it to every device on the firewall, headlights, tail lights, etc.
 
Problem #1 is you need a shroud! Without the shroud all your fan is doing is blowing air here and there and not pulling air through the radiator to cool the engine and not putting air directly on the engine.
 
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