Upgrading to powermaster 100amp alt

[RobsRR]

Ok great thank you

 

[Nacho-RT74]

No matter what but including when recharging batt you can't push in either the amperes into the batt. Battery becomes on a single device more requesting load. It will suck just what chemically is able to handle and can't be speeded up no matter if gets a 1000 amps alt recharging it. I never have found a batt sucking more than 20 or 30 amperes getting recharged on a regular charge cycle, even from fully death. Just when battery is damaged you can get higher readings. And while is getting charged the amperes request is getting lower with the time. So initially you can get a charging peak, higher while more discharged, then going lower minute after minute.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Wow thank you so much for your time to post all of this. My ac controller is out of a 73. Glad to know I am not the only one with hot fan blower wires. I will have to read your post several times and definitely would like to implement it.

I haven't explained with detail the diagram, but you must consider which signal must be the one arriving to 85 ( or 86 ) leg on the relay, and which one must be the 87 Because it can be confusing. On the pic 87 is the one linking the relay with the resistor block and is the wire section I replaced using same color wire "jumper" or link to make the clean job once relays are hidden. This signal is the one coming already relay powered ( from 30 leg, "batt" source... actually alt side of ammeter if ammeter is still being used ) and must still go throught the resistor to set correctly the speed. The wire originally arriving to the resistor block is the one running to the 85 ( or 86 ) relay leg to trigger it from blower speed selector.

About the heat on switch. I have found the plug melted not just on my car but several 73 and lates B bodies around.

 

[Triple Black 73]

No matter what but including when recharging batt you can't push in either the amperes into the batt. Battery becomes on a single device more requesting load. It will suck just what chemically is able to handle and can't be speeded up no matter if gets a 1000 amps alt recharging it. I never have found a batt sucking more than 20 or 30 amperes getting recharged on a regular charge cycle, even from fully death. Just when battery is damaged you can get higher readings. And while is getting charged the amperes request is getting lower with the time. So initially you can get a charging peak, higher while more discharged, then going lower minute after minute.

I wasn't implying that the battery will get charged faster if the alternator is wired directly to the battery. Just pointing out that anything connected directly to the battery (like fuse boxes, fan relays, lights, audio systems, ECU, etc) will get more amps and cleaner power than the backward way Chrysler wired it almost 50 years ago.

The most important take away is that when the alternator is wired before the battery, the battery acts like a buffer to any voltage fluctuations after the battery. It's like adding an capacitor to the system. It smooths out the current from the alternator. This results in cleaner DC power and less AC noise on the line (which our cars are famous for). This becomes very important if you have an ECU or car audio system. Personally, I fought with alternator noise over the speakers the entire 25 years I had my car. It was all cured when I ran a 4 awg from the alternator to the battery.

TL;DR: If you're going to do an one wire alternator, it's best to wire the alternator directly to the battery, instead of the starter relay.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

yes is true about the buffering on batt like a Capacitor. So far so good I haven't experienced any problem yet with the stock setup.

 

[Triple Black 73]

yes is true about the buffering on batt like a Capacitor. So far so good I haven't experienced any problem yet with the stock setup.

Well, you won't have any issue until you need clean power.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I meant not even with the Radio.

I do have the problem with my parents 1975 Mercedes thought and it doesn’t have ammeter LOL. ( just with AM )

 

[Dajkzo]

So i did the mad electric mod on my 71 RR a few years ago. I now want more output at idle (added ac and elect. fan for condenser .) So now Upgrading alternator to powermaster 100 amp.
I used a 10 gauge wire as recommended in the mod. Powermaster calls for an 8 gauge up to 6 feet. Would you guys recommended redoing and replacing. I dont know if i will ever draw that much output?

This site is helpful and they will sell lengths of any size and color cable and wire. Quality multi-strand primary wire is important. The rule of thumb for a DC circuit is to add up the max amperage for each device, and then compare that amperage draw to the chart. #8 is rated for 80 amps.

http://www.bestboatwire.com/voltage-drop-calculator