Voltage regulator

[Turbobus]

I am upgrading my 73 Charger to the 65 amp and up wiring diagram per the Dodge service manual page 8-148 fig 16-65. I noticed that the drawing for the regulator is different than the lower amp regulator on page 8-128 fig 6. Did they possibly use a mechanical regulator for higher amp applications or maybe the police cars or is it just a fluke and no body changed the drawing.

 

[RJRENTON]

I am upgrading my 73 Charger to the 65 amp and up wiring diagram per the Dodge service manual page 8-148 fig 16-65. I noticed that the drawing for the regulator is different than the lower amp regulator on page 8-128 fig 6. Did they possibly use a mechanical regulator for higher amp applications or maybe the police cars or is it just a fluke and no body changed the drawing.

I believe that for original high amperage alternator systems (police or taxi or vehicles with high amperage loads) that Chrysler used Leece-Neville or Motorola designs. Both used their own voltage regulator design, completely different than MOPAR......just my opinion of course....
BOB RENTON

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

That is correct, the non-Chrysler alternators used on those applications ran their own external regulators. They were not mechanical.

 

[Turbobus]

That is correct, the non-Chrysler alternators used on those applications ran their own external regulators. They were not mechanical.
View attachment 1689473

That is correct, the non-Chrysler alternators used on those applications ran their own external regulators. They were not mechanical.
View attachment 1689473

Do I need one of those or will my existing electronic regulator work? Thanks for your input?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Exactly what alternator are you using?

 

[Turbobus]

Exactly what alternator are you using?

Well, excuse my ignorance but it is a square back, 2 field wires, supposedly 100 amp, got it from a company off the internet and they claimed it put out more amps at idle than a 60 amp alternator, can’t remember the name of the company because it was over 2 years ago, I work slow! Iam going to try and find the receipt/ info on my particular alternator .

 

[Turbobus]

Well, excuse my ignorance but it is a square back, 2 field wires, supposedly 100 amp, got it from a company off the internet and they claimed it put out more amps at idle than a 60 amp alternator, can’t remember the name of the company because it was over 2 years ago, I work slow! Iam going to try and find the receipt/ info on my particular alternator .

All I know is I want to be able to sit at a stop light with my lights, a/c and in drive and not see my lights dim,,,, it seems to be a difficult journey!

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

If it’s a Chrysler type dual isolated field alternator, you can run almost any of the stock type ’70 and up electronic regulator. The original Leece-Neville and Motorola alts ran higher field current loads requiring different regulators. Most all the current Chrysler high-output alternator offerings use the standard electronic regulator.

 

[Turbobus]

If it’s a Chrysler type dual isolated field alternator, you can run almost any of the stock type ’70 and up electronic regulator. The original Leece-Neville and Motorola alts ran higher field current loads requiring different regulators. Most all the current Chrysler high-output alternator offerings use the standard electronic regulator.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my question! If I truly have a 100 amp alternator and wire the charging system as outlined in the service manual and still have a discharge indication on my ammeter ie dim lights, reduced blower motor output etc. at idle, What would you do next? FYI I installed a new engine compartment harness and a complete dash harness as well.

 

[Turbobus]

Thanks for taking the time to answer my question! If I truly have a 100 amp alternator and wire the charging system as outlined in the service manual and still have a discharge indication on my ammeter ie dim lights, reduced blower motor output etc. at idle, What would you do next? FYI I installed a new engine compartment harness and a complete dash harness as well.

BTW, I checked all grounds associated with the charging system and found no problems.

 

[451Mopar]

I have been using the Transpo C8313 HD adjustable voltage regulator. It is the same style as the '71 and new regulator with the triangle connector and is rated for up to 7 amps field current.
In the '71 Charger I am using it with a 132 Amp Denso alternator from a newer Dodge truck, and haven't had any problems.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Thanks for taking the time to answer my question! If I truly have a 100 amp alternator and wire the charging system as outlined in the service manual and still have a discharge indication on my ammeter ie dim lights, reduced blower motor output etc. at idle, What would you do next? FYI I installed a new engine compartment harness and a complete dash harness as well.

What would I do?
Factory original Chrysler ammeter-based Charging System and additional loading. Load placement matters!

 

[Turbobus]

What would I do?
Factory original Chrysler ammeter-based Charging System and additional loading. Load placement matters!

Sometime before I bought the car in 79 someone lovingly used a punch and hammer and ceremoniously put a hole in the firewall and used Romex to connect start relay and spliced into the wire that occupied #16 spot, ya, it wasn’t pretty but it worked, at any rate thanks for your time and patience in this post!

 

[threewood]

Have you considered going with an internally regulated, late model alternator?
I used a Denso alternator from a 1991 Toyota 4Runner. 70 amp. Mounted in the factory brackets with two 3/4" spacers. Eliminated the firewall vr. I ran one additional wire from Alt straight to battery. No more dimming at idle. 14.1v at idle with everything on.

 

[Turbobus]

Have you considered going with an internally regulated, late model alternator?
I used a Denso alternator from a 1991 Toyota 4Runner. 70 amp. Mounted in the factory brackets with two 3/4" spacers. Eliminated the firewall vr. I ran one additional wire from Alt straight to battery. No more dimming at idle. 14.1v at idle with everything on.
View attachment 1689703View attachment 1689704

I’ve heard of it but never really gave it much thought but I am now!
I’d have to have a double pulley, because a/c. Thanks

 

[Sinitro]

Have you considered going with an internally regulated, late model alternator?
I used a Denso alternator from a 1991 Toyota 4Runner. 70 amp. Mounted in the factory brackets with two 3/4" spacers. Eliminated the firewall vr. I ran one additional wire from Alt straight to battery. No more dimming at idle. 14.1v at idle with everything on.
View attachment 1689703View attachment 1689704

The Nippon-Denso single wire system does clean up the under-hood wiring but...
Now if the regulator fails the entire alternator must be replaced..

Just my $0.02...

 

[hunt2elk]

Have you considered going with an internally regulated, late model alternator?
I used a Denso alternator from a 1991 Toyota 4Runner. 70 amp. Mounted in the factory brackets with two 3/4" spacers. Eliminated the firewall vr. I ran one additional wire from Alt straight to battery. No more dimming at idle. 14.1v at idle with everything on.
View attachment 1689703View attachment 1689704

Converted both my B bodies over to this as well, and have been happy with how it charges.

 

[threewood]

I’ve heard of it but never really gave it much thought but I am now!
I’d have to have a double pulley, because a/c. Thanks

I hope someone can help with the double pulls because all the ones I've looked at for the 4Runner are single. I don't know how hard a pulley swap would be.

The Nippon-Denso single wire system does clean up the under-hood wiring but...
Now if the regulator fails the entire alternator must be replaced..

Just my $0.02...

Still makes life easier and Toyota Denso factory alternators are very well made and durable.

 

[RJRENTON]

All I know is I want to be able to sit at a stop light with my lights, a/c and in drive and not see my lights dim,,,, it seems to be a difficult journey!

Dimming of the lights during high electrical loads is a NORMAL occurance at idle or low speed operation ....he battery is supplying the energy required. Upon resumption of engine RPMs the alternator will again to supply the amperage the load required AND simultaneously recharge the battery as required. There is ABSOLUTELY NO NEED TO REDESIGN the system for such an occurance.....in spite of what you've heard by others or a buddy......this subject has been covered in several other threads......
BOB RENTON

 

[Charrlie_S]

I use the denso alternators from the late '80's early 90's mopars, and the transpo adjustable regulator (although the stock regulator can be used) on all my early Mopars. As far as the pulleys, as far as I know all the pulleys are interchangeable on those denso alternators that look like that. I got several different pulleys (single and double, and different diameters) from my local alternator/generator/ starter rebuilder. Just loosen the nut, take the pulley off, put on the new pulley, and replace the nut.