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What did you do to your Mopar today?

Assembled the 440 short block for the 71 today.

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There was a local charity event today to raise money for toys for local disadvantaged kids for Christmas that consisted of a bike ride and car show, so we took Fred over there to support them in whatever small way.
It was a small show with live music and plenty of bbq and fellowship.
It was good to get Fred out - it's been a quiet year for such things, of course.
The '67 Plymouth next to him is his old show buddy of a good friend of mines' that his parents bought new:
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It was a pretty, very mild day in city park and we enjoyed ourselves. :thumbsup:
 
start it up for the first time in six days short of a year. SST TKO500 install done for the most part; rest of things just nik naks now.





watermelon
 
I got sick of not driving it!!! I boogered up the rear quarter and bumper early this Spring, with my dad's truck in the shop for a resto I've neglected the Charger, today I got it in primer and got back on the road. Man did I miss driving it!
 
More holes added to hood to match the trunk fabrication . . . getting the tools into this concealed area is not very easy and it's very interesting - need to get creative to get this work done.

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Finally figured out that it wasn't going to fix itself and replaced the bent steering knuckle in the Grand Cherokee. Had to replace the axle too even though it was brand new in July. When my daughter slammed into the curb, it compressed the CV joint violently enough to blow out the outer boot.
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Cranks but no start this weekend. Doing a few tests. Needed a break so I did rear brakes on my pick up.

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themechanic said:
I need to install mine. Any tips?
Click to expand...
Plymouth or Dodge? They are different, but my recommendations will still probably apply. I am assuming you are putting it on your 69 RT? Put on both side pieces first, but only attach them with the eight bolts that go on the outside. The middle piece can then be put into place. I would rivet that front (in relation to the car), driver side bracket on the middle piece first. If the driver outer piece is riveted in place first, it partially blocks that rivet hole on the center piece. With the bolts in but loose, you should be able to rivet that post first, moving the side piece out of the way. I would then rivet the sides pieces, then the other 3 on the middle part. When riveting the side pieces have the bolts in but loose. That way you can move them to line the holes in the ducts with the holes in the hood. I wanted to have all 3 pieces in place before doing any riveting, to make sure everything fit together correctly.
 
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Looked at the layer of dirt and water spots on it...said fck it and closed the door. Needs washed, buffed, waxed and the inside vacuumed. Bout ready to just make it a driver and be done with it. Black is a bitch.
 
Another thing. What rivets and rivet tool are you going to use? I bought repop rivets that are supposed to be the same as OEM. The"washer" is large as is the diameter of the stalk that is pulled by the tool (compared to the rivets usually used with this type of tool). My rivet tool has 3 different size tips. Each tip has a different size hole that the rivet stalk goes through. The stalk of the rivet is larger than the hole in all 3 tips. I ended up using the tool with no tip at all. Because the stalk is bigger in diameter than the tool is designed for I had to hammer the rivet into the tool, and after setting the rivet I had to pound out the broken stalk. The tool could not release the stalk as it normally would because of the size of the diameter of the stalk.
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Mike Szadaj said:
Plymouth or Dodge? They are different, but my recommendations will still probably apply. I am assuming you are putting it on your 69 RT? Put on both side pieces first, but only attach them with the eight bolts that go on the outside. The middle piece can then be put into place. I would rivet that front (in relation to the car), driver side bracket on the middle piece first. If the driver outer piece is riveted in place first, it partially blocks that rivet hole on the center piece. With the bolts in but loose, you should be able to rivet that post first, moving the side piece out of the way. I would then rivet the sides pieces, then the other 3 on the middle part. When riveting the side pieces have the bolts in but loose. That way you can move them to line the holes in the ducts with the holes in the hood. I wanted to have all 3 pieces in place before doing any riveting, to make sure everything fit together correctly.
Click to expand...
Yes, for my Coronet.
 
Why did they use rivets in some places and not screws all around? The guy I purchased my ramcharger airbox said he just uses screws instead of rivets.
 
themechanic said:
Why did they use rivets in some places and not screws all around? The guy I purchased my ramcharger airbox said he just uses screws instead of rivets.
Click to expand...
The rivets are used in the places where it is impossible to use a nut and bolt. If you use a sheet metal screw into the hood brace, there is nothing to keep it from loosening and falling out. You also have to be sure the screw is not too long, or else it will ding the hood skin. On the 2 outside areas speedy nuts are used. They can only be used there because the area is open, and not enclosed like the brace. One of the biggest advantages to using rivets for any purpose is that you only need to have access on one side to have a permanent attachment.
 
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