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What did you do to your Mopar today?

Decided to install the set of tailights i restored a couple months ago.
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There is a dent on the tail light panel, that is hidden behind the finish panel. I think i can hammer and dolley it. But will need paint work after. Trying to keep this small project from snowballing!
 
Last night we pulled the matching numbers 383 engine out of his 69 Dart GTS. First we put it on the lift,removed the driveshaft,, shifter,4 speed transmission, bellhousing,pressure plate,clutch and flywheel. Then we lowered the lift and plucked out the engine. He is having an oil pressure cold start issue with the engine. The engine is going to the machine shop and the car is getting put away until spring, when we will perform the same procedure in reverse order and put the engine and transmission back in the car.

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Last night we pulled the matching numbers 383 engine out of his 69 Dart GTS. First we put it on the lift,removed the driveshaft,, shifter,4 speed transmission, bellhousing,pressure plate,clutch and flywheel. Then we lowered the lift and plucked out the engine. He is having an oil pressure cold start issue with the engine. The engine is going to the machine shop and the car is getting put away until spring, when we will perform the same procedure in reverse order and put the engine and transmission back in the car.

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Where'd you find the room to put that car in your garage?
 
I got my 71 Challenger convertible up on the lift,and pulled out the driveshaft. I have been experiencing a driveline vibration that has been get worse lately. The U joints seem good, the rear end has very little play,no leaks around the pinion seal,it was low on gear oil,but not empty by any means. The rear axle is a 489 case 8 3/4 sure grip with 3.23 gears. The driveshaft is the one that was in the car when I bought it. The yoke going into the transmission is not pretty and could be the cause of the problem. I also have a transmission fluid leak when the car is parked. It leaks a considerable amount of fluid, maybe half a quart or so everytime I park the car. I am not seeing any obvious spot where the leak is coming from. The pan bolts snuggled up with just a quarter turn each. I checked the lines,dipstick tube and speedometer gear housing, all were dry. I pulled the front dust shield and it was dry where the front seal is. I think that I am going to have to top the transmission fluid level off,run the car up to temperature, run it through the gears and park it with cardboard under it to pinpoint the area of the leak. I would love to get it sorted out and drive it for the fall. The turning foliage is amazing to view in a Mopar convertible!

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I got my 71 Challenger convertible up on the lift,and pulled out the driveshaft. I have been experiencing a driveline vibration that has been get worse lately. The U joints seem good, the rear end has very little play,no leaks around the pinion seal,it was low on gear oil,but not empty by any means. The rear axle is a 489 case 8 3/4 sure grip with 3.23 gears. The driveshaft is the one that was in the car when I bought it. The yoke going into the transmission is not pretty and could be the cause of the problem. I also have a transmission fluid leak when the car is parked. It leaks a considerable amount of fluid, maybe half a quart or so everytime I park the car. I am not seeing any obvious spot where the leak is coming from. The pan bolts snuggled up with just a quarter turn each. I checked the lines,dipstick tube and speedometer gear housing, all were dry. I pulled the front dust shield and it was dry where the front seal is. I think that I am going to have to top the transmission fluid level off,run the car up to temperature, run it through the gears and park it with cardboard under it to pinpoint the area of the leak. I would love to get it sorted out and drive it for the fall. The turning foliage is amazing to view in a Mopar convertible!

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Worn tailshaft bushing?
 
How far from case to center of front u-joint. if you need to replace rear bushing.
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Made a quick disconnect for my diaper. Now have a quick disconnect on 3 of the 4 points. At some point need to do the last one...........
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Positive battery cable was starting to fail inside the crimp, so new repro battery cables installed on the 69 Charger. Adjusted the clutch linkage on the 60 Plymo as it sounded like it did not have enough free play (and in fact, did not). Drove each around a bit, and satisfied, I found a good spot on the lawn, laid back and watched the clouds for an hour.
 
Not so much for my mopars, but more for me. Got a set of light weight race ramps for my lift. No more moving around those heavy steel ramps.
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Not exciting, but replaced the parking brake shoes and all hardware on my 2013 Jeep Wrangler.
I would love to meet the engineer who designed this, so I can give him 2 swift kicks in the nuts.
What a stupid setup.
 
Got the exhaust mocked up and welded on the 62” this weekend, little more to do with the rear exhaust hangers.

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Spending too much on the daily drivers just to maintain them.
Ok, really it's the 3 cars for the daughters and granddaughter, plus my daily.
Engine oil, oil filters, air filters, and cabin filters really add up.
Not to mention new hubs/bearings and all new brake rotors and pads for my daily.
Might replace the brake hoses and calipers too?
On the Mopar side, Bought a 4.25" stroker crank and rods for a "B" block.
 
Been using Castrol Edge full synthetic in the daily driver cars. Around $30 per 5-quart jug, and Wix filters around $10 each except for the newest car about $20 each.
I didn't even mention the 2005 Cummins 3500 which was my daily before the wife passed away, so mostly been driving her 2012 Kia Optima SX. At 160,000 miles the Kia is needing wheel bearings/hubs, already changes the struts/shocks, sway bar links, lower control arms with ball joints, and tie rods. When I do the hubs, putting new brake pads and disks on the car (Power Stop Z23 kit a bit under $400 from Summit Racing) and inspecting the calipers and lines too.
 
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