What do you use on fresh bearings?

[71airgrabberRR]

Look at World War 2 radial aircraft engines. They always had to pull the props through each time before starting them. By "pulling the prop through" I mean they actually had to grab the airplane's propeller and use it to turn the engine over. They did this until the engine completed a number of revolutions.

The reason behind this was as the engine sat, oil collected in the bottom cylinders due to gravity. There was a chance of hydraulically locking the engine causing internal damage, bending a rod etc. if the engine was started and not pulled through first. By turning the engine over before starting it they pushed the excess oil out and most of it ended up on the ground below the plane. This is why they always smoked so much on first start up, clearing out after 15 seconds or so.

These engines were low compression by our standards. 6 to 1 or 7 to 1 compression ratios were average.

Pratt and Whitney made the most reliable engine in the world at that time and it was a radial that used the same starting procedure that I mentioned above as far as pulling the props through.

To each his own about wanting to or not about dunking the pistons in oil. I've done it on literally over a thousand engines that I have assembled over the years, and have never had a problem with rings not seating.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kw6UWPaTUt0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUHUAF-SADg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZrc2vt68xA

Check out these videos and you will see what I'm talking about.

I never galled a cylinder wall either.

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Sorry, but on the bottom two videos you will have to click on the center where it says "Watch this video on YouTube" to watch them.

 

[snakeoil24]

Lubriplate cream for main and rod bearings, stp on pistons, Cam break in lube recommended by cam maker only. then rub graphite on cylinder walls for good ring break in.

 

[miller]

These engines were low compression by our standards. 6 to 1 or 7 to 1 compression ratios were average.
Pratt and Whitney made the most reliable engine in the world at that time and it was a radial that used the same starting procedure that I mentioned above as far as pulling the props through.

I never galled a cylinder wall either.

Don't need all that compression, with all that horsepower!

Pratt Whitney most reliable??? Kinda like Plymouths...everybody forgot they were ever made. I'll take a Curtiss Wright any day of the week! No wonder they called me Prattman, because I hated working on 'em so much. Like comparing a Harley to a Honda (Honda being the Pratt).

Ditto on the cylinder walls.

Dangit! No wonder my ears still ring. Where the hell's the mufflers??
Thanks for the post, 71airgrabberRR!!

 

[IQ52]

The cam grinders assembly lube on the lifter face, cam lobes and intermediate shaft. Break in oil on the bearings, piston pins and a dab of oil on the piston skirt that I smear around with my finger. When I called Total Seal, because I use their rings, they said to use their assembly lube or WD40 on the rings and cylinder walls. I soak the timing chain in break in oil over night, hang and drain it for an hour or so before it is installed.

 

[69Bee]

I use SL3333 (CRC product) Moly Assembly lube on bearings, cam, lifter bottoms, and most other metal/metal surfaces. I use oil on pistons, rings, valves, and the sides of the lifters. I usually coat the cylinders by hand with an oiler can. I also do the pistons and rings this way.