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What is it worth - 1969 Super Bee

Thanks the replies guys! And sorry about minimal info, the car is about 1000 miles away from me and my plan is to fly there and check it out and if everything checks out and we reach an agreement, drive it home (I'm sure that will not be a popular idea but I don't mind an adventure that will possibly turn into a headache). Seller is at 35k, I came in at 25k which he declined, I don't like negotiating over the phone/online when I am selling something so I figured I would just go see it and talk with him in person. The car having been in his family since new makes me feel pretty good and based on my conversations with him so far he seems like a standup guy. I probably should have called it out originally but I was looking for the value assuming there is no rust as I have been told and all sheet metal is original.

I do not have any truck pics but here is a shot of the driver floor and a small glimpse of the rear floor. Also a pic of fender tag, one of the B7's on the tag means B7 blue right? And can anyone confirm it is not B7 currently?

I dont mind that its a little hot rodded out, I would be looking to do that to whatever car I end up with anyways. The interior is probably my biggest issue, seems like it could be 3-5k to fix that and get it semi nice (I'm not looking for perfect, planning to drive the car quite a bit living in southern california) and then the paint will eventually need to be addressed, dont mind that is not the right blue but obviously it will affect resale down the road.

Thank you again, I have spent many hours so far reading the forums here and have learned a ton, excited for the day I finally get my hands on a car!

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You should also take a good look at the conditions of the wiring harnesses under dash and hood to see if they have been hacked up.......
 
Looks to me like a weld bead around the torque box around the torsion bar not a good sign I would have to check the entire bottom for any repairs before even thinking about it just a small misalignment of any of the suspension parts can be a real headache
 
My first question is why does the fender tag say B7 and the body is painted B7 but the door jambs are B5? If you want a 1969 Super Bee first learn everything you can about a 69 Super Bee. Take this particular car as an example. Say you just bought it and now you have it home in your garage. What do you know right now you are going to have to do to so it will be the car you really want? Estimate all those costs, real costs for parts and labor, add it all up and then double that amount. You will now be closer to what the final cost actually comes in at regardless of what you are telling yourself right now. Be realistic, how much of this can you do yourself and do you have all the proper tools to do the work correctly like the professionals all have who aren't afraid to charge for their work?

And I agree on the paint. Go with a single stage urethane and stay away from the 2 stage show car jobs.
 
You're new to Mopars and this car has many unknowns.

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I am restoring a 69 Super Bee, going back with original B7 shown here after paint but before sanding and buffing. It is also a 4 speed, 383 but has factory air. I am restoring it close to original, including the factory air, only exceptions will be it has an N96 hood without the parts underneath (won't fit with ac compressor), and I doubt I will reinstall a black vinyl top.
I paid $22,500 for it about 18 months ago (internet), and the good news is that the engine and transmission had just been rebuilt and detailed in the engine compartment. It is all numbers matching except for the rear quarter which had been replaced (poorly). This is the good news, the bad is that I have had to have replaced a lot of metal, both quarters, trunk, rear floor plans, and several other pieces. The frame rails are in very good condition. Much of the interior was missing and what is there needs restoration. I am being very particular, having had all the dash gauges restored and working to like new, most interior pieces, extremely expensive heater ac box restoration (not done yet). I have come a long way but still have a long way to go. I am constantly sourcing parts that I didn't even know were missing (this forum has been a tremendous help).

While there was more body work needing done that I thought I did get lucky on the drive train, but that is it. Practically every inch of this car will be redone, rebuilt, or restored. I knew this would be a journey.

Now value? Don't know what it will be worth when it is done. Not real concerned, pretty sure I will have more in it than I could sell it for. My interest is 1) my love of mopars from my youth (had an 69 A12 bee in the early 70's) and 2) saving another mopar that deserves to live on. If you're perspective is ultimate value and sale, you tend to think one way, if it is the love of the hobby and satisfaction of ownership it is entirely another. My perspective is the latter.

You will get all kinds of opinions, and I certainly would not excessively overpay for a project car, but you really have to look at it as what its worth to you to own, restore, and enjoy. It is very hard to quantify that. Take the time to take a good hard look at it in person, do some mental math on what you think you need to spend on it to get it to a level you desire, then make an offer. Do realize that parts, whether repops, NOS, or used, are more expensive that most other classic cars.

Having said all of that (and without seeing it in person), I think you are going to have to pay close to what you have been thinking to get the car, or any like it.

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Well I talked to the owner on the phone Sunday, went great, said he didn't really have much going on the rest of the day and would get me some videos. Videos never came, I messaged him a couple other questions which he read but did not answer, messaged him again Monday confirming we were still good for Tuesday (my flight and car rental were all booked which he knew) no response, texted him, called him, nothing. Waited until Tuesday 2 hours before my flight was supposed to leave to cancel after still not hearing from him. Maybe something up but it seems like it would have to be pretty serious to not take 30 seconds to message a guy flying out to look at a car you are selling and explain. All this after he tells me on the phone he was holding out for me to come see if it before talking to another guy about it because "there aren' t a lot of people with integrity left in this world"


Back on the hunt!
Sounds like a guy that stole some pictures and was hoping to milk a deposit out of someone..
 
Sounds like a guy that stole some pictures and was hoping to milk a deposit out of someone..
He sent me specific pics I asked for so I do fully believe he is the owner.


Thanks for all of the new replies guys, I for sure have a lot to learn, my plan is to tackle as much as I can myself, I'm an OK welder (mig/tig) and ok machinist (manual and CNC), paint and body work not so much but always ready to mess things up to gain some knowledge.

I don't ever see myself doing a full restoration mainly because I plan on driving the car quite a bit. I'll get it looking decent and then make it stop fast and go fast, in the order.
 
I would like to add one or two more thoughts based upon my own personal experience and a few others who say the same thing. If you have questions about this car and having these back and forth thoughts going on in your mind I would say keep this car in mind but keep looking. My experience has been when you find the car you are looking for your heart will tell you this is the right one.
 
I would like to add one or two more thoughts based upon my own personal experience and a few others who say the same thing. If you have questions about this car and having these back and forth thoughts going on in your mind I would say keep this car in mind but keep looking. My experience has been when you find the car you are looking for your heart will tell you this is alithe right
Well I talked to the owner on the phone Sunday, went great, said he didn't really have much going on the rest of the day and would get me some videos. Videos never came, I messaged him a couple other questions which he read but did not answer, messaged him again Monday confirming we were still good for Tuesday (my flight and car rental were all booked which he knew) no response, texted him, called him, nothing. Waited until Tuesday 2 hours before my flight was supposed to leave to cancel after still not hearing from him. Maybe something up but it seems like it would have to be pretty serious to not take 30 seconds to message a guy flying out to look at a car you are selling and explain. All this after he tells me on the phone he was holding out for me to come see if it before talking to another guy about it because "there aren' t a lot of people with integrity left in this world"


Back on the hunt!
A number of years ago I was interested in a 69 Road Runner in Southern California, 1500 miles away and an international border. I looked up some local repair shops and contacted one that had a good on line rating. Asked the guy what he would charge me to do a full inspection of the car and advise me of its condition. The seller was willing to take it to the shop. Cost me $75.00 to find out the car was much rougher than advertised, keep looking. 75 bucks well spent
 
Wow! Great idea to get an expert 2nd opinion for a very reasonable cost. I will certainly remember this one.
 
The guy probably bought the car for 20-25 and wants to make 5k or more just selling it. I’m sure he’s getting a lot of activity on the car so my guess is it’s probably sold by now but again I’m just guessing.


We all have different opinions on pricing but let’s be honest here. We ALL over paid for our project at one time or another in some way.

I paid 3500 for my challenger in 2002-2003 and I mean it sound like a bargain but how much was that car new ? Probably under 3500 plus the hood I had to buy, carpet, motor, etc

The blue car looked pretty decent for the price it was in. There’s about 8 bees listed right now, the lowest one is 44k

It probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to maybe go up on the budget and get a better car or look for a different b body

Try looking for a car through maybe a friend of a friend or someone who knows someone because it’ll most likely be an owner not some who just wants to flip the car for profit. You’ll get more info, a better car and you’ll probably pay less.

Hang in there I know when you want something suddenly the price goes up or there isn’t any and when you aren’t looking there’s deals everywhere but you’ll find something.
 
Almost 20k deep in our '68 Coronet 440 project at this point when advertised as "almost everything is there to put back together" only to find out a lot of it was wrong, some broken pieces, and pretty much the rest needing completely restored.
Guy had even advertised a ram air system that was supposed to go with it and sold out from under us within the week we went to get the car - $800 we'll never see
It had been rotisseried back in '06-'07 already so most of the major body work is already done, still need fenders, trunk, roof, and doors worked a little then final paint - probably another $6k for all that
$3k just for engine parts for total rebuild + $1k for machining, sonic, dip + $1,500 to the builder
Parts have dramatically increased in the past 2-4 years, even on here. Something that was $250 2 years ago are now going for $400-$500.
Just the complete weatherstrip kit when I first looked it up about 5 months ago was only $550 and that same exact kit from the same people now was $799 and sold out.
Careful what you wish for and hindsight is 20/20 so make sure you have better foresight lol
Good luck on your quest.
 
Ok so a bit more info, for interior bits it will need carpet, headliner (owner has rails) seat covers front and rear, 1 a pillar cover and I think the sail panels, owner has all the trim, door panels etc.

The car was originally bought in the midwest by his dad and was undercoated from the factory, he said about 50% of the original undercoat is there and the areas it was coming off were covered by him using a gm underbody product, says no rust was present. There was a small patch on the driver side rocker when the car was repainted, 4" long, rock dent/surface rust but that is it.

One thing I was not aware of is it has a fuel cell, original tank was taken out and was lost over the years. It sounds like the car was taken apart for paint back in the 80s and never fully put back together, the plan was to switch to bucket seats but that never happened.

The car originally was bought by the current owners dad, it went to the current owners brother in the 80s and he was more concerned with the mechanical aspect of the car and didnt care much about the cosmetics, the current owner bought it off the brother about a year ago but has a pro touring trans am he is building and would rather put the money and time into that, had a long call with the guy and he seems very trustworthy. It seems like the number is $30k

Carb is edlebrock, has the original exhaust and intake manifolds, distributor, and some other bits, no original carb. Motor was rebuild roughly in 2012, springs and roller rockers done with the cam, 1500ish miles since rebuild, no leaks.

Here are some trunk photos.

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This trunk has obviously been patched. It’s a pack of lies. Run away!
 
Almost 20k deep in our '68 Coronet 440 project at this point when advertised as "almost everything is there to put back together" only to find out a lot of it was wrong, some broken pieces, and pretty much the rest needing completely restored.
Guy had even advertised a ram air system that was supposed to go with it and sold out from under us within the week we went to get the car - $800 we'll never see
It had been rotisseried back in '06-'07 already so most of the major body work is already done, still need fenders, trunk, roof, and doors worked a little then final paint - probably another $6k for all that
$3k just for engine parts for total rebuild + $1k for machining, sonic, dip + $1,500 to the builder
Parts have dramatically increased in the past 2-4 years, even on here. Something that was $250 2 years ago are now going for $400-$500.
Just the complete weatherstrip kit when I first looked it up about 5 months ago was only $550 and that same exact kit from the same people now was $799 and sold out.
Careful what you wish for and hindsight is 20/20 so make sure you have better foresight lol
Good luck on your quest.
Spot on on costs. I spent almost $1000 with Steele on rubber and weather-stripping, and that is only one item of a multitude that that I am having to source and purchase.
 
That’s not a low estimate for what is there.

no headliner, no door panels, seat is thrashed, paint is dead amd wrong color, tail stripe painted on, JC Whitney racing mirrors. Been a hot rod project with the tach, gauges, msd, headers, valv covers, aluminum intake, etc.
I'm with you. Unless someone can do ALL of the work themselves, what needs to be done is all expensive. And he "believes" certain things about the motor. Which really means he knows nothing, or he's not being totally honest. This should have a huge 'Buyer Beware' sign hanging on it. I do like the wheels...
 
Nice one at auction this weekend in Carlisle. Be interesting to see what it brings.

 
Cars go on a sliding scale. Anything under 30k will have lots of issues. Then suddenly around 40k they get much much better and by 50k the cars are nice. More guys walking around with 20k to plunk down and some cars under 20k have a lot of value in just the parts. Just some things to keep in perspective when comparing various cars.

Some other things to consider are trans and color. You cannot in any way compare earth tone cars with primary colors and HIP cars. A four speed can add tremendous value, like 50%. Just depends on the car as to how much it can add. Guide books try to pin a number like 15%, but I’ve seen this story too many times. Many guys will walk right past an automatic.

as for this car in question, it’s likely upper 20s to 30k. Good luck on guys finding a blue 4 speed 69 bee for teens. You might if the economy will crash on out, but for the last two plus years it’s been this way. I have seen some much better deals on various 68-71 mopars over the last few months, at least in “done” cars.
 
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