What to check for???

[Dpbeats11]

What would be the first wire to check for the highlighted section in picture. Had car running jiggled group of wires that are highlighted and it shut off. Can’t get it to start now. Cranks but won’t fire up. Finally got a multimeter so hoping for a quick fix.
Thanks

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

Ballast resistor itself. Although I don’t think a bad ballast resistor would make it shut off but would show up as bad when you try to start it but could be wrong on that.
The wires don’t like jiggling

 

[451Mopar]

check for power at coil in run. disable starter netrul safety open, and re-check power at coil when key is in the start/crank position.

 

[Dpbeats11]

check for power at coil in run. disable starter netrul safety open, and re-check power at coil when key is in the start/crank position.

what am I looking for as far as good power?

 

[BeatersRus]

12 volts would be a good start....

 

[Don Frelier]

You should unplug at the bulkhead and clean the connections in there.
That's likely the problem.

 

[Ron H]

You should unplug at the bulkhead and clean the connections in there.
That's likely the problem.

Agree - I had a loose harness connection at the BH (new engine harness), the BH was in poor condition so I replaced it and still had problems with one connection. This was due to overheating at the connection as it had been loose - loose connections can overhead causing a loose contact. They need to withstand engine and road vibrations.

 

[Don Frelier]

You can remove the male flat terminal from the engine side with a very small flat screwdriver.
With the wire loose from the connector test fit it into the bulkhead on the firewall at all the openings.
(Disconnect the batttery first)
If any are loose you can simply squeeze them gently tightening the opening.
Clean everything and put it back together.
Sometimes the bulkhead melts at the firewall and then the female side pushes back inside the car.
Then you need to find an alternative repair (new bulkhead or find an unused cavity).

 

[Dpbeats11]

Tested ignition coil and got 1.5 ohms and 8K ohms. Pulled spark plug wire from plug and got not spark. But it’s cranking. Checked main spark plug from distributor with screw driver method. Still no spark. Bad coil?
Check BH and cleaned terminals. Fully reseated and solid connection. Anything left to test?

 

[451Mopar]

what am I looking for as far as good power?

power. basic check that power from both start and crank positions of ignition switch are working. if no power at all, need to check battery to switch. run position engine not running should be > 6 volts. in cranking position, not engaging starter > 11 volts.
sorry for the short reply and grammer. keyboard died, so using on-screen keyboard. lots of mouse clicks...

 

[Don Frelier]

See post #3

 

[451Mopar]

Points or electronic ignition? Did you check if there is power at the ignition coil?

 

[Dpbeats11]

Points or electronic ignition? Did you check if there is power at the ignition coil?

this is points. I am getting 4.4v at coil in run position. Assuming I need a second person to crank in start position while I check meter.

 

[Dpbeats11]

Found the problem. My kill switch went bad. Connected to positive side on coil. Had a feeling but never thought jiggling a wire not close to that coil would be the problem. Maybe a coincidence that it happened to fail at that time. All seems well now. Thanks all!

 

[WileE]

What would be the first wire to check for the highlighted section in picture. Had car running jiggled group of wires that are highlighted and it shut off. Can’t get it to start now. Cranks but won’t fire up. Finally got a multimeter so hoping for a quick fix.
Thanks

View attachment 1191799

What are you getting at the coil ? The primary side ends there before it goes to the secondary.

 

[WileE]

forget it, didn't read the thread