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Which converter would you use, low bid project

fesser

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A friend convinced me to at least partially assemble my rough 67 GTX while still working on trying to do a decent job on my 68 Coronet. The thinking is if I can get the GTX to at least run and move under its own power it will be easier to sell if/when the time comes. The plus side is we can likely bolt it together and play with it for relatively little money, like we used to do when we were broke high school kids (as opposed to a slightly less broke old guy).
The Plymouth came with a long block, .60 over, cast crank 440 with an unknown cam, and 440 source stealth heads. Also came with a "rebuilt" (no details) 727. I have the parts on hand to make the engine complete.
My question here though is which converter would you use. All are presumed good as far as they were in running vehicles that were disassembled for non-converter related problems.
I have:
1. stock converter from a 69 440HP/727 C body
2. supposed to be stock converter from a big block 68 440HP Charger R/T. Not sure if this is true though. The converter has two starter ring gears, one mounted over/on top of the other. Haven't seen that before.
3. Converter out of a 75-77 440 motorhome. I saw this one move under it's own power.

I am leaning toward the motorhome converter mainly because I have the flexplate for it and it was matched to a cast crank engine. With the others I have to deal with the balance issue. However, I don't have a deep understanding of converters and am not sure if the motorhome converter would be a waste of time.

Again, this is meant to be sort of a fun, side project throwing spares together on the cheap. Not a serious, value driven, meant to last thing. I already have the Coronet project to suck up extra money.
 
Understood. I think I read that b&m makes a weighted flex plate if I wanted to run the “un-weighted” converters with the cast crank. Looks like the motorhome converter is the simplest solution though. Thanks
 
The large 11 3/4” converters are very low stall speed. The 10 3/4” especially if it was a performance Univision a better choice. Welding the weights to the converter is cheaper than the B&M flex plate.
Doug
 
The large 11 3/4” converters are very low stall speed. The 10 3/4” especially if it was a performance Univision a better choice. Welding the weights to the converter is cheaper than the B&M flex plate.
Doug
I haven't measured any of them. The one out of the C Body transmission might be a 10 3/4". Thanks for the advice about the weights vs. buying a flex plate.
 
The best street converter I had behind my 440 was a stock early 70s 340/727 piece. I took it from my friends car, swapped him my stock big block. He was looking for tighter, I wanted a bit more stall. We were both happy.
Maybe find a cheap small block 727 from a generic rebuilder?
 
10 3/4” if you have one.

I get what you are doing, but for as easy as it is, you should take a few hours and ID the cam.
 
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