White smoke? Need help.

[miller]

Exactly like khryslerkid, and others, said. For someone not experienced on these motors, and the valve train, it can be a little confusing. Just takes time. Don't try to read too much into it all, until you get used to what to look for. Just like me mentioning the push rods, that's just one possible source for 'engine noises'. Simple...look for the obvious, and go from there.
How many miles on the motor, will help. Your plugs...with the oiling on 'em, could be getting past the rings, or valve guide seals. Depends on how bad, decides what to do about it.
But, your asking about a 'tick', that's probably somewhere in the valve train. For any given valve, push rod, tappet, or cam lobe, each one can only be looked at right, when the tappet is down, on the heel of the cam lobe.
Look over the cam itself, each lobe, for any wear. As said, at the tappet, for correct pre-load. For a bent push rod, on and on...
Can also not be worth worrying about, unless it starts getting worst. Too many things can happen on these things, just like any other motor.

 

[Bruzilla]

A bit late with this, but when I restarted my 440 after it had sat for about seven months, after it only running a few times after sitting ten years, I heard some banging/rattling coming from the pass-side valve cover. Taking the advice of The Old Guy at O'Reilly's, I added a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. The noise stopped and I haven't heard it again in four months.

I don't know what's in it, but the stuff works.

 

[Paul Boucher]

Thanks guys! Yeah, from reading on other posts on here I can tell that these engines can do some funky things that baffle even the most experienced guys. I really appreciate all the help. To be honest I figure the best way to learn is to dig into this thing. Get some hands on experience. I figured I would start with the easy stuff and work my way up to the harder stuff, and go as far as I feel with.

Frankly my knowledge of engines is about 10%, but I am a fast learner. I taught myself to operate, repair, or program every piece of machinery I have at work. I know I can do the same here. Any good book suggestions?

Khryslerkid, thanks for the explanation! You must have known I was looking at those thinking, “what are those supposed to look like and what am I looking for?” I did look down at all of them, but didn’t really know what I was looking at. I will check those this weekend. I push down on each side of the rocker to see if it would budge at all and none were loose front to back. I also tried to shake the push rods and none felt loose, but I will check again. I plan to check the passenger side as well. I figure while I am checking things out I might as well check them all.

Miller, Here's what I know about the motor. The original owner either blew or pulled the original 440hp drag racing and put in this 66 383. Car has 166,*** miles on it. I have no idea about the miles on the motor.

I know that the second owner had it about a year, wife got pregnant and had to sell, and he put about 1000 miles on it. He installed a Lunati cam and lifters shortly after he got it, so there is about 500-800 miles on that. He also put on the high rise intake manifold, the Holly Carburetor, and new plugs, so the plugs only have about 1000 miles on it.

Bruzilla, thanks for the tip. I was reading about Marvel Mystery Oil online as well, and I am thinking that changing to the more viscous oil might have emphasized the ticking. I will pick some up and try that this weekend. I was thinking that with the wet on the one side of the spark plug it might be a valve issue. I also don’t know if #8 was firing because the plug was fusing together. I plan to pick up new plugs and swap them this weekend as well to see if that helps at all.

 

[khryslerkid]

Looks like there is oil in the plug hole from a leaking valve cover gasket, unless oil ran in there removing the valve cover before you removed the plug.

This one looks like you picked up a chunk of dirt as you removed the plug.

 

[Paul Boucher]

Looks like there is oil in the plug hole from a leaking valve cover gasket, unless oil ran in there removing the valve cover before you removed the plug.
View attachment 406936

This one looks like you picked up a chunk of dirt as you removed the plug.
View attachment 406937

Thanks for the input. The oil was there when I pulled the plug. I did check and it was only on one side of the plug. From what I read, if it is only on one side it's most likely due to a valve leaking? The valve seals are on top under the springs correct? I didn't think to look at them. Will I be able to see them without removing the springs?

Thanks for the tip on the other dirty one. That makes sense. I don't know if it was fused or is debris. I will pull it again and check it out. Can I just try to wipe it clean? What about the oiled plug, just wipe clean, or replace?

Also, stupid question, I put the valve cover back on and the plugs back in; I am assuming that this would be best and not leave the internal components exposed in order to help prevent any potential moisture exposure or rust. Is this correct?

 

[MarPar]

Also, stupid question, I put the valve cover back on and the plugs back in; I am assuming that this would be best and not leave the internal components exposed in order to help prevent any potential moisture exposure or rust. Is this correct?

indeed.

 

[khryslerkid]

You can clean your plugs off with parts cleaner or carb cleaner. Never use anything abrasive on the porcelain. Scratching it will cause the plug to short out.

You could check your gap too before reinstalling .035

You might be able too see the valve seals looking through the springs when the valve is closed. If it has a dampner spring inside of them, it will make it more difficult.

The oiled plug looks like it became wet from the outside, like a leaking valve cover gasket allowed oil to run into that plug area. If there was oil only on the electrode part of the plug and it has become wet, then the valve seal might be bad on one of the two valves for that cylinder.

If that's the case, valve seals can be replaced without taking off the heads, but it requires a good air compressor and a couple of specialty tools. I wouldn't worry about it right now.

 

[Paul Boucher]

You can clean your plugs off with parts cleaner or carb cleaner. Never use anything abrasive on the porcelain. Scratching it will cause the plug to short out.

You could check your gap too before reinstalling .035

You might be able too see the valve seals looking through the springs when the valve is closed. If it has a dampner spring inside of them, it will make it more difficult.

The oiled plug looks like it became wet from the outside, like a leaking valve cover gasket allowed oil to run into that plug area. If there was oil only on the electrode part of the plug and it has become wet, then the valve seal might be bad on one of the two valves for that cylinder.

If that's the case, valve seals can be replaced without taking off the heads, but it requires a good air compressor and a couple of specialty tools. I wouldn't worry about right it now.

Good, I have some Carb Cleaner and I'll clean them this weekend. I will also pick up a feeler gauge and do a gap check. I will try to look at the valve seals. Also I plan to pull that plug after I run it with the Marvels Mystery Oil to see if there is any fresh oil on the plug. I will start with this and see what the results are. I'll post an update Saturday or Sunday. Thanks again everyone!

 

[Dennis H]

Valve guide seals need to be done by someone with experience. I will spare you my horror story. They were replaced due to a brief wiff of smoke between gears, noticed when shifting by a car guy behind me on the climb to Virginia City.

 

[miller]

Could be the motor simply has a lot of time on it. In that case, certain parts just get worn, and when bad enough, needs repair. Unless you know, even with the cam change, doesn't mean anything else was done. Just stating facts.

Maybe help a little, on the valve train. Ever set solid lifter gaps? Along the same lines, checking push rods, and the like. Can only be done one cylinder at a time, TDC compression stroke, to look for a loose push rod. The 'cup' inside the tappet should be depressed a little, past the retainer wire/clip. That's the amount of pre-load.
Just saying, for each pair of push rods, that piston needs to be at top center, so the tappets are on the bottom of the cam lobes. Check one pair, then (in firing order) go to the next pair, and so on.

 

[Paul Boucher]

Dennis, yeah I have enough of a horror story with my dad in the hospital already and don't need any more. That's why I am so bummed that my motors giving me issues. I appreciate the advice. That's why I am here. You guys have been great at giving pointers on what to do, and of course what not to do. I definitely don't want to screw anything up worse!

Miller, I plan to call the previous owner and see if I can get some more history on the motor, if he knows it. I think he said he still knows the original owner, so he might be able to talk to him and get more info.

I have never set lifter gaps. This is my first Mopar and I have never really worked on cars before, but I will learn. I will read up on setting the gaps to get a better idea of what to look for.

From what you are describing I do think I remember that on the cylinder with the oil on the plug the lifter piston was all the way to the top and touching the wire, but I'll add it to my list of things to check this weekend. To check the lifter a pair at a time I turn the engine by hand until pistons for cylinder 1 are on the up stroke, check for a gap, rotate to cylinder 2 up, check, repeat through cylinder 8? The pre-load gap should only be when that cylinder is up and the cam lobe is in contact with that lifter, correct?

http://www.gregsengine.com/lifter-installation-and-valve-adjustment.html

 

[miller]

The link on your post is fairly good info...good read.

Just so nobody gets confused, understand a few of the terms. No, you won't be setting gap, that is set between the rocker arm, and the valve 'tip', normally for solid type lifters. Yes, on a gap between the tappet, or lifter, 'cup' and the retainer, or clip. The gap there is called the pre-load. The gap there is needed, on hydraulic tappets, to keep positive contact between the tappet, push rod, and rocker arm. The hydraulic action of that type tappet is what takes up any slack.
Yes, starting with #1 cylinder, but then you need to follow the engine's firing order. That will be in the book, service manual.
To know which cylinder is #1, and on, look from the side of the motor, at the two front cylinders. One is slightly more forward, than the other. #1, on big block (BB) Mopar motors is on the driver's side. 1, 3, 5, 7 on driver's side (left), 2, 4, 6, 8 on the passenger side (right), both from front to rear.