Who’s doing what in the off-season.

[malex]

tuning on my max wedge today running modified holley race hemi 4235-36 carbs.
these things really woke this motor up ! no hesitation anywhere. it wants to wind!
found that adjusting both the primary and secondary idle screws u can move the AFR around, adjusting only the primarys the afr was 12ish, by tuning with both i raised it up to 17-18 and then brought it down to 13.5-14.8 by tuning with the secondary screws. no puddling on idle now and the idle air screws became sensitive..it also doesnt like higher float levels, drop them below the hole and cleaned it up. some more to go but its real close.

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That is very interesting info. Are those the Quick Fuel mertering blocks? Are you running the brass floats?

 

[stage3]

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That is very interesting info. Are those the Quick Fuel mertering blocks? Are you running the brass floats?

yes QFT blocks and plastic type rear floats thar r notched to clear the added jets, i did ad a allen head screw for access to the secondary idle screws so that they can be adjusted without taking the carbs off,,wrapped them with teflon tape to titen them up in the hole..it was fighting me on the tune until i started playing with both front and rear idle/throttle plate positions. but then it hit the sweet spot and suddenly they became very tuneable, idle air bleeds, no more loading at idle which is at around 14-1500 rpm, .675 roller. drop it in gear (which drops the rpm to around 900-1000) and no loading up and dying..i thought u mite find all this interesting because of your dart hemi..

 

[malex]

yes QFT blocks and plastic type rear floats thar r notched to clear the added jets, i did ad a allen head screw for access to the secondary idle screws so that they can be adjusted without taking the carbs off,,wrapped them with teflon tape to titen them up in the hole..it was fighting me on the tune until i started playing with both front and rear idle/throttle plate positions. but then it hit the sweet spot and suddenly they became very tuneable, idle air bleeds, no more loading at idle which is at around 14-1500 rpm, .675 roller. drop it in gear (which drops the rpm to around 900-1000) and no loading up and dying..i thought u mite find all this interesting because of your dart hemi..

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I certainly am. Yes and I recall our conversation last fall, I was wondering who was telling me about the metering blocks. So I’ve got to follow your steps on this.

I’m very surprized about the float levels too. When I had the Nitrophyl floats in and set so the fuel was at the bottom of the plug hole, well I took the float bowl off and had a look, that float was basically laying on the floor of the bowl, it had next to nowhere left to drop. Would you mind giving me the part number of the metering blocks again if you still have it.

Great idea on the idle screws to Allen head. I’ll be all over that too.

On your carb pictures a guy sure can see where the fuel level plug on the secondary bowls is lower than on the primary bowl. About .100 lower I believe.

EDIT - found the metering block number that you already gave me, scratch that. Thanks.

 

[stage3]

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I certainly am. Yes and I recall our conversation last fall, I was wondering who was telling me about the metering blocks. So I’ve got to follow your steps on this.

I’m very surprized about the float levels too. When I had the Nitrophyl floats in and set so the fuel was at the bottom of the plug hole, well I took the float bowl off and had a look, that float was basically laying on the floor of the bowl, it had next to nowhere left to drop. Would you mind giving me the part number of the metering blocks again if you still have it.

Great idea on the idle screws to Allen head. I’ll be all over that too.

On your carb pictures a guy sure can see where the fuel level plug on the secondary bowls is lower than on the primary bowl. About .100 lower I believe.

EDIT - found the metering block number that you already gave me, scratch that. Thanks.

wasn't exactly thrilled on the notched float bowls of the secondary floats, they used epoxy smeared on them, may have to look into center hung brass float bowls. but am pre registered for a couple of car shows in the upcoming weeks so that could be for a later mod. will finish tuning later this week. which will be equalizing the afr between the carbs, only 1 point off with a simple twist of the secondary idle screws, be sure to look at the emulsion bleed sizes that i posted , they greatly reduced the fuel at idle..

 

[malex]

wasn't exactly thrilled on the notched float bowls of the secondary floats, they used epoxy smeared on them, may have to look into center hung brass float bowls. but am pre registered for a couple of car shows in the upcoming weeks so that could be for a later mod. will finish tuning later this week. which will be equalizing the afr between the carbs, only 1 point off with a simple twist of the secondary idle screws, be sure to look at the emulsion bleed sizes that i posted , they greatly reduced the fuel at idle..

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Got some stuff coming up too but I will get into it in the weeks ahead. Will get me some metering blocks coming first. Thanks again.

 

[padam]

Getting a late start cause I’ve been screwing around with a Challenger I bought last summer.

Going to send this mess to Liberty for faceplating.
Also on the list:
- install Crane adjustable rockers
-install new master cutoff switch and get it working properly
- fix my busted up fiberglass hood, maybe put it on hinges
- possibly rework clutch
- new front tires (already got a pair of vintage Ansen skinnys
- bunch of odds and ends

View attachment 1395356

Anybody know someone at Liberty’s Gears that can get my parts moving?

 

[padam]

Something else I need to address;

 

[fourgearsavoy]

Anybody know someone at Liberty’s Gears that can get my parts moving?

They had my gears for 5 months getting them face-plated then I called Paul in the shop and told him I was coming up there to pick them up done or not.
I left Rittman at 6 am on a Saturday morning and the gears were still warm when I got to Liberty's

 

[Fran Blacker]

They had my gears for 5 months getting them face-plated then I called Paul in the shop and told him I was coming up there to pick them up done or not.
I left Rittman at 6 am on a Saturday morning and the gears were still warm when I got to Liberty's

That shouldn't be necessary but you gotta do it, good for you.

 

[padam]

They had my gears for 5 months getting them face-plated then I called Paul in the shop and told him I was coming up there to pick them up done or not.
I left Rittman at 6 am on a Saturday morning and the gears were still warm when I got to Liberty's

Yeah I keep getting the “ still at heat treat, next week” bit.

I’m going to have to do something soon.

 

[malex]

Some bent studs hey. Yep I’ve been through that too. I replaced mine with ARP studs and started torquing to 120’ lbs and no further issues.

Upgraded to 5/8” over the winter now, no longer an issue, ever

 

[fourgearsavoy]

Some bent studs hey. Yep I’ve been through that too. I replaced mine with ARP studs and started torquing to 120’ lbs and no further issues.
View attachment 1451152
Upgraded to 5/8” over the winter now, no longer an issue, ever
View attachment 1451154

Yeah I had the same deal with my Savoy. I think it's the generic bolts that come in axles from Moser,Strange,etc...
I talked to Doctordiff about studs after the ones in my axles bent. He tested some of the so called "grade 8" studs installed in some axles and found they were sub standard. I put the ARP studs in my axles and never bent another one.
Gus

 

[padam]

Some bent studs hey. Yep I’ve been through that too. I replaced mine with ARP studs and started torquing to 120’ lbs and no further issues.
View attachment 1451152
Upgraded to 5/8” over the winter now, no longer an issue, ever
View attachment 1451154

Yeah I’m thinking of going to 5/8. I had Weld wheels with the thick hubs. Towards the end of last season I switched to vintage slots with thinner hubs, but they do have unilug holes.

How does it work with studs? Are there sleeves that fits inside the wheel holes?

 

[padam]

I also had an issue with my brake drums dragging so I had .090” spacer between the drum and axle.

Should I put a shim between the retainer and backing plate instead?

 

[fourgearsavoy]

I also had an issue with my brake drums dragging so I had .090” spacer between the drum and axle.

Should I put a shim between the retainer and backing plate instead?

You can get steel shim gaskets for Mopar ends. There were some on the axles in the original rear of my Savoy.

 

[padam]

You can get steel shim gaskets for Mopar ends. There were some on the axles in the original rear of my Savoy.

Do you remember where you got them?

 

[dvw]

I have a .125" spacer between the rotor and axle on my racecar. Doesn't hurt anything. What wheel are you running. Bending studs comes from A; lack of torque. B; lack of surface contact between the wheel and drum/rotor. I ran 1/2" studs for years on my racecar. Eventually broke the wheels themselves. Never bent a stud. Always torqued to 100lb/ft. My sons car bent studs with drag radials, steel wheels, and a trans brake in about 100 passes.
Doug

 

[padam]

The whole rear was new last spring, s60 from strange.
I had Weld Rodlites for probably 100 passes, they have the thick centers.

Then switched to old aluminum slots. Around 30 passes. They have a 1” thick center, full contact on back face.

I don’t know at what point they got bent as I just noticed it the other day.

I’m running a 4 speed so I know that’s tough on things.
I’m going to an adjustable pressure plate this year, so hopefully I can soften the hit some.

 

[mmissile]

Like an idiot....building another car.

Krusty is making progress....

 

[Wookie316]

I guess I should think about putting my transmission back in. Ambition became lost over the winter. Now that it has finally started warming up, maybe I’ll find some focus.

Did get the Challenger out of the trailer after a long winter nap. Back at home where it belongs.