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Who’s doing what in the off-season.

I pulled an axle out of the Dana to see if the 23 spline Moser units were doing the twist. No twisting issues so I pulled the second one. No twist on it either. While the axles were out, I pulled the sure grip as I know those clutches were getting weak. Sure enough, it was needing a clutch kit so I threw one in and smacked it back together with some fresh gear lube. The factory 3.73 gears and bearings were in great shape even after the two decades of trans brake beatings we’ve given it.

I also ordered two new driveshaft sensors as mine appears to have died. Kinda need that these days. The list of yet to do includes getting the lower control arms switched from bushings to heims, fixing the heater core, getting the AC charged up and now buying a new set of drag radials.
 
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I pulled an axle out of the Dana to see if the 23 spline Moser units were doing the twist. No twisting issues so I pulled the second one. No twist on it either. While the axles were out, I pulled the sure grip as I know those clutches were getting weak. Sure enough, it was needing a clutch kit so I threw one in and smacked it back together with some fresh gear lube. The factory 3.73 gears and bearings were in great shape even after the two decades of trans brake beatings we’ve given it.

I also ordered two new driveshaft sensors as mine appears to have died. Kinda need that these days. The list of yet to do includes getting the lower control arms switched from bushings to heims, fixing the heater core, getting the AC charged up and now buying a new set of drag radials.
Man those gears have stood up well. Sure hope my factory 3.54’s in the Dart last like your 3.73’s have. Had my Plymouth axles out when I changed up to 5/8” studs and no twist neither, all was good.
 
Man those gears have stood up well. Sure hope my factory 3.54’s in the Dart last like your 3.73’s have. Had my Plymouth axles out when I changed up to 5/8” studs and no twist neither, all was good.
Should last like mine have. I’m still on 1/2”-20 studs with a stock diff going 1.32 60’ and 5.45 1/8 mile at 3950#. Hoping to get it to 1.2x 60’ this year with a low 8 quarter mile. We’re gonna pile the dome pressure on the wastegates until it happens. Should be interesting for sure.
 
Pulled the MW Super Victor intake off the 505 a couple of days ago and spent some time doing a little blending on the plenum base. A couple pics of what I was up to.

Time spent rounding the short side under the plenum base at each runner. Pretty hard to tell on this picture, the clover leaf was left untouched, just rounded entering into each runner.

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This picture shows a little better how the radius blends now. I would have loved to get into the clover leaf area but lots of guys who have, say “don’t do it”.
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Right now I run a 1/2” 4-hole wood spacer. I’m limited to a 1/2” spacer due to height. Haven’t tried anything else. Perhaps some of you guys have had success with spacers under super victors so chime in.

I’ve read that some fellows who have opened things right up, clover leaf gone and all, ended up with no gain and even loosing power. I can’t put it back if I grind it out, so. Figured I would keep it simple and be happy with maybe a couple HP gain. So that is the deal over here at my camp.
 
I found the best way to do the leading edge of the intake runner is to use a long piece of Crocus cloth. Run it up the port around the edge and back down the port. It'll round the divider wall to a perfect radius.
Doug
 
I found the best way to do the leading edge of the intake runner is to use a long piece of Crocus cloth. Run it up the port around the edge and back down the port. It'll round the divider wall to a perfect radius.
Doug
Well damn. Have 2 rolls sitting in the drawer, never dawned on me to try it. Those dividers are tough to do from the top. You can bet on the next time off it will get the crocus cloth. Great tip, thanks!
 
Pic #1 is a stock Mod Man. Pic #2 is the modified version. The center of the floor has even raised and radiused. The runners have been lengthened. The runner length and design was discussed with Larry Meaux. Pics #3/4 are the plenum spacer. It also has a different lid with the carbs spaced further apart. We'll see this Spring. 485", Crower light weight crank, GRP aluminum rods, 12.3-1, [email protected]", vacuum pump, ported Indy SRs, T&D rocker, 2 Carter Comp 750s.
Doug

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Thanks a lot Doug!
I know I'm going to start out with the stock ModMan intake CNC'd for Max Wedge port size and a 6bbl top, and see how that fits with the N96 setup.
It's really inspiring to see the mods you made out of "the aluminum shoebox"...
You've made it look like an actual intake that does something other than give the carbs a place to bolt to!
 
Some stuff going on over here again.

Transmission install time. On the trany jack and ready to go up and in. All freshened up, converter had some bent vanes, have to wonder if that was effecting ET at all. And that is why we do routine maintenance.
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Trany is back up, bolted in and wrapped with a new blanket. New transmission lines and this time they come in from behind, which opens up the shifter cable area. Shifter cable wraps around from the right side, no possibility of a burnt cable going this route. Engine limiters used to be at the front of the engine, now they are relocated to the rear, barely visible. A couple more lbs relocated from over the front wheels to the rear of the trans.
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Back up in place and wrapped up with a new trans blanket.


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A set of race bullets and H pipe is new for the 23’ season.


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Also new for the 23’ season is a Star vacuum pump with a home made mandrel. Will be interesting to see if there’s any improvement to ET. Previously the 505 had valve cover breathers only. Oh yes and the crank trigger is also new for 23.

That’s about it for off-season upgrades on the old B-body for now.

vacuum pump should be worth a little over simple breathers. Crank trigger looks killer. Hard to say what that’s worth I suppose, all depends on how good the system before was. I guess you’ll find out. I like the little exhaust sy too. You’ll have to let us know how much sound those little race bullets knock down.
great stuff as always from you, Malex.
 
Pic #1 is a stock Mod Man. Pic #2 is the modified version. The center of the floor has even raised and radiused. The runners have been lengthened. The runner length and design was discussed with Larry Meaux. Pics #3/4 are the plenum spacer. It also has a different lid with the carbs spaced further apart. We'll see this Spring. 485", Crower light weight crank, GRP aluminum rods, 12.3-1, [email protected]", vacuum pump, ported Indy SRs, T&D rocker, 2 Carter Comp 750s.
Doug

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My goodness…… That intake looks like a ton of ingenuity and work. Please keep us updated on the results.
 
That pretty motor going into my sons not quite so pretty 62. It's getting 3 more bars to cert to 8.50. A a huge weight loss program. Lost close to 400 lbs from its turbo SB stock street days.
Doug

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Pic #1 is a stock Mod Man. Pic #2 is the modified version. The center of the floor has even raised and radiused. The runners have been lengthened. The runner length and design was discussed with Larry Meaux. Pics #3/4 are the plenum spacer. It also has a different lid with the carbs spaced further apart. We'll see this Spring. 485", Crower light weight crank, GRP aluminum rods, 12.3-1, [email protected]", vacuum pump, ported Indy SRs, T&D rocker, 2 Carter Comp 750s.
Doug

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I ported for a living, This is some next level stuff..
 
vacuum pump should be worth a little over simple breathers. Crank trigger looks killer. Hard to say what that’s worth I suppose, all depends on how good the system before was. I guess you’ll find out. I like the little exhaust sy too. You’ll have to let us know how much sound those little race bullets knock down.
great stuff as always from you, Malex.
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LW, regarding the vacuum pump, what pushed me towards adding one was seeing the difference what one made. A. buddy had one on his new 541 wedge. He was running in the 9.70’s. Well he found that he had a vacuum leak on the one side of the valley plate. Well he fixed that up and his times went to low low 9.60’s. Now with my 505 when I shift at 6200 I can head home after races and when home my trailer floor is clean. If I’m shifting higher like at 6500 I see it on the trailer floor once I get home. From the rear seal. That tells me I’m getting some pressure in my motor at higher RPM. I’m itching to see what and if there’s any difference. The general consensus that I’ve come across is that it can be up to 2/10ths. When I start the car now, after about 10 seconds I’m seeing about 4” of vacuum on my gauge at 1500. I also pressurized my motor and it held good pressure so it is sealed up good. We’ll know soon enough if there’s any difference.
 
Are there any differences in the way you would gap your rings if running a vacuum pump?
I added a Pan-E-Vac setup last year. I know that doesn’t come anywhere near to what a vacuum pump will do. I mostly added it because when I went from a PCV setup to just breathers, I noticed the engine compartment was getting dirty. The Pan-E-Vac system did help that, so it’s doing something.
 
Mine are gapped at the manufacturers spec using a GZ pump.
Doug
 
Are there any differences in the way you would gap your rings if running a vacuum pump?
I added a Pan-E-Vac setup last year. I know that doesn’t come anywhere near to what a vacuum pump will do. I mostly added it because when I went from a PCV setup to just breathers, I noticed the engine compartment was getting dirty. The Pan-E-Vac system did help that, so it’s doing something.
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I’ve never heard of any ring gap change when using a vacuum pump. I previously had breathers too, and heater hose to dump anything down near the LCAs.
 
Hey guys, you all have WAY more knowledge and experience than I do, but I want to say I am a fanatic regarding Positive Crankcase Ventilation, to the point of having bought TWO of the M/E Wagner PCV valves, the first for my 440, and then 1 for the 421 Tripower in the GTO, in order to get the best functional performance I can in that kind of PCV system.
BUT
What I haven't decided on, and I will have to put some effort into, is if I run a similar PCV system in my 572 as I have on my 440. Since the 440 is going to be oiled down and "retired" I'd basically move the M/E Wagner PCV valve to the 572 and tune the valve for the new engine, which I'll add is being gapped (per the appropriate manufacturer, piston or rings manufacturer I don't remember?) for a 350 N²O shot. If I need to or should run a vacuum pump instead the Wraptor serpentine belt, pulley, and accessories system will mean a little extra thought will be required to make a drive pulley for the vacuum pump, which will probably just mount to the front of another existing pulley, and I'll have to find a space for the vacuum pump, and the bracket to hold it.
My point is that I am ADAMANT that a good vacuum does more than add power, it keeps an engine clean, and reduces the chance of leaks.
I just don't know if a vacuum pump will be REQUIRED because I see them on almost every "built" motor, or if I can try my PCV valve setup and that may work??
 
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Off season my brother and I have been prepping our 69 superbee for race duty. Unfortunately, I managed break the camera on my phone...meaning photos are few.
Lots of work ahead...Minitubbing with split monoleafs and caltracs, 11" disc brakes, new front floorpan and quarters. Narrowing a dana 60 w 4.88s 35 spline. 440 short filled, eagle rods, ported stage VI heads, 13.8:1, weiand tunnel ram, 750 holley ultra's, 278/[email protected] roller .682/.700. 5500 stall and a brake. 2 1/8 hooker super comps. 16.5x31 et streets.
I cut a real nice Floorplan out of a wrecked 4 door...transplant is underway. It not likely to be pretty when it goes down the track this summer. Glad there is two of us and a friend helping on weekends!

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