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Who’s doing what in the off-season.

Finished my first set of carbs up last night. One more set to go, prime the pump and put some plugs in it and it’s ready to dyno.

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Designing some new 4-link brackets and a few other components for my rearend update. Didn't like any of the commercially available brackets, so I took what I liked from a several of them and incorporated it into the new design. Then I had a prototype printed on a Stratasys Polyjet machine. If the old saying, "A picture is worth a thousand words" is true then what is a working model you can touch, handle, and bolt other parts to worth? My chassis builder is in love with the design.

Tom

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Getting a late start cause I’ve been screwing around with a Challenger I bought last summer.

Going to send this mess to Liberty for faceplating.
Also on the list:
- install Crane adjustable rockers
-install new master cutoff switch and get it working properly
- fix my busted up fiberglass hood, maybe put it on hinges
- possibly rework clutch
- new front tires (already got a pair of vintage Ansen skinnys
- bunch of odds and ends

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hope to make atleast 500 hp, everything im reading points to more like 600...best sex i'll ever have..

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Some stuff going on over here again.

Transmission install time. On the trany jack and ready to go up and in. All freshened up, converter had some bent vanes, have to wonder if that was effecting ET at all. And that is why we do routine maintenance.
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Trany is back up, bolted in and wrapped with a new blanket. New transmission lines and this time they come in from behind, which opens up the shifter cable area. Shifter cable wraps around from the right side, no possibility of a burnt cable going this route. Engine limiters used to be at the front of the engine, now they are relocated to the rear, barely visible. A couple more lbs relocated from over the front wheels to the rear of the trans.
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Back up in place and wrapped up with a new trans blanket.


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A set of race bullets and H pipe is new for the 23’ season.


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Also new for the 23’ season is a Star vacuum pump with a home made mandrel. Will be interesting to see if there’s any improvement to ET. Previously the 505 had valve cover breathers only. Oh yes and the crank trigger is also new for 23.

That’s about it for off-season upgrades on the old B-body for now.
 
Some stuff going on over here again.

Transmission install time. On the trany jack and ready to go up and in. All freshened up, converter had some bent vanes, have to wonder if that was effecting ET at all. And that is why we do routine maintenance.
View attachment 1397331


Trany is back up, bolted in and wrapped with a new blanket. New transmission lines and this time they come in from behind, which opens up the shifter cable area. Shifter cable wraps around from the right side, no possibility of a burnt cable going this route. Engine limiters used to be at the front of the engine, now they are relocated to the rear, barely visible. A couple more lbs relocated from over the front wheels to the rear of the trans.
View attachment 1397332
Back up in place and wrapped up with a new trans blanket.


View attachment 1397334
A set of race bullets and H pipe is new for the 23’ season.


View attachment 1397333
Also new for the 23’ season is a Star vacuum pump with a home made mandrel. Will be interesting to see if there’s any improvement to ET. Previously the 505 had valve cover breathers only. Oh yes and the crank trigger is also new for 23.

That’s about it for off-season upgrades on the old B-body for now.
Very nice work!
 
What heads, compression, cam are you running ?
the 440 in the car is a stock motorhome short block,,trickflow 240 heads, crower hydraulic hauler,528 552, 300 310 108,, harland sharp roller rockers,,thinking about buying the TTI 2 1/8 step headers
 
the 440 in the car is a stock motorhome short block,,trickflow 240 heads, crower hydraulic hauler,528 552, 300 310 108,, harland sharp roller rockers,,thinking about buying the TTI 2 1/8 step headers
I put TTI step headers on a car for a fellow one time. Not sure if the 2-1/8 step header is the same design now or not but a normal mini starter would no way fit. Had to install a fully clockable starter. And at that time they were very expensive.
The 2” TTI header sure is a nice unit.
 
I put TTI step headers on a car for a fellow one time. Not sure if the 2-1/8 step header is the same design now or not but a normal mini starter would no way fit. Had to install a fully clockable starter. And at that time they were very expensive.
The 2” TTI header sure is a nice unit.
sounds like you are keeping me from losing my everlovin mind...much appreciated
 
I wouldn't trust water tight, water has surface tension. You need to test with something like gas or lacquer thinner for fast results. Those to things show porous spots right away. Hate to see you put the pan on and it weeping oil.
Well this is a tidbit of info I wish I had a couple of weeks ago....my pan was leaking from the external pick-up fitting. I pulled the pan, took everything apart, cleaned it up and reassembled. Prior to putting it back in the car, I filled the pan with water. Not a drop. Now that it is back in the car, the leak has returned.

:BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:

Pulling the pan to redo it should go quicker this time...now that I have had practice.
 
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sounds like you are keeping me from losing my everlovin mind...much appreciated.
If it were me, I would call TTI and confirm starter fitment for the step header on your application. Just saying that it was a problem in 2009. Good luck.
 
Well this is a tidbit of info I wish I had a couple of weeks ago....my pan was leaking from the external pick-up fitting. I pulled the pan, took everything apart, cleaned it up and reassembled. Prior to putting it back in the car, I filled the pan with water. Not a drop. Now that it is back in the car, the leak has returned.

:BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:

Pulling the pan to redo it should go quicker this time...not that I have had practice.
If you want to see surface tension. Fill a glass of water, when you get near the top add water slowly. You'll see it will be higher than than rim of glass. The rim of glass has to be completely dry.
 
Well this is a tidbit of info I wish I had a couple of weeks ago....my pan was leaking from the external pick-up fitting. I pulled the pan, took everything apart, cleaned it up and reassembled. Prior to putting it back in the car, I filled the pan with water. Not a drop. Now that it is back in the car, the leak has returned.

:BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:

Pulling the pan to redo it should go quicker this time...now that I have had practice.
iF it's a big block pan....
RTV a piece of plywood to the top of the pan, with a tire valve stem in it, and some soapy water inside, and pressurize it to a few lbs.
The leak will show up.
 
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