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Who has NEVER had a cam or lifter go bad?

Why not NOS lifters? They're out there...
I am opening my mind to other options, THIS being one of them.
It is tempting to have any flat tappet lifter that I use to have that flat spot machined in them like these:

1738639194433.png


I might look to see if Howards has these for Mopars.
Crower does but they are out of stock:

1738639270207.png
 
I am opening my mind to other options, THIS being one of them.
It is tempting to have any flat tappet lifter that I use to have that flat spot machined in them like these:
Everything's a trade-off. Dumping extra oil out of the lifter galley onto the cam will increase windage on the rotating assembly.

Has anybody mentioned using lighter valve springs for break in? The "modern" grinds tend to have faster ramps and more aggressive profiles which are harder on everything. Reducing spring pressure (and RPM) during break in will help these parts "wear in" before they "wear out."
 
As far as I can remember, the "lighter springs for break-in" tactic has been suggested for some cams. That goes back a long time.
None of the camshafts that I have ever installed came with that suggestion. I have always used a spring that meets the guidelines in the 440/495 and the 383 in Jigsaw.
None of my other cars got fitted with camshafts that were all that radical. I have a 280/474 in the 360 in this one:

000 gh.JPG


This one has a basically stock 1979 360 from a van but it has a reproduction 340 cam:

0341.jpeg
 
WHO has never had a cam or lifters go bad?



Some members suggested to have flat tappet lifters REfaced. I've wondered if the metallurgy is different in new lifters, would it make sense to take OLD OEM lifters and have them resurfaced.



I do have enough used lifters here to do 3 engines. ALL came out of engines that had no cam or lifter problems.
There was a video awhile back where a cam grinder (Could have been Oregon cams?) not only resurfaced lifters but also machined a flat area down the outside of the lifter body to induce oil flow to the lobes. This flat area allows small amounts of the oil rushing through the oil galleries to turn DOWN toward the cam lobes.


I'm still interested in changing cams to get a combination that works better for me.
I keep struggling with the decision of flat tappet or roller.
The roller option just feels like it costs too dang much for my comfort level. Breaking it down, a cam swap adds up to well over $2000 when you include everything.
What leads me back to a flat tappet is that I don't personally know many people that have had cam failures with their flat tappet hydraulics. For all the horror stories that I have heard, I can only recount ONE engine that all of my friends have had that lost a cam.
I personally know of at least four FBBO members that have great performing cars and they have flat tappet hydraulics and use proper oil.
I have a FT hydraulic in Jigsaw:

View attachment 1800205

View attachment 1800206

View attachment 1800207

...I have one in a 360 Dart, a 440 Power Wagon, a 72 Duster with a 360 that has a repro 340 cam....
All of them run strong but most are stock compression, iron head, soft valve spring medium performance engines.
The engine in the red car....

View attachment 1800208

...is a bit more fancy. 9.8 compression, 495 cubes, aluminum heads and 2" headers. I'd never run a stock cam in this engine but this wild Lunati peaks at a point where the heads don't flow and the Tremec won't shift. I'm looking to step it down to move the power range back down to where it will be useful.
Part of my ongoing struggle is with money.
No matter how much I have, I always wonder if spending more is a waste or if it is a wise move.
This Lunati cam was used in this build because I already had it and kept the lifters in the correct order from the last time I used it.
I had the MP '528 solid cam before this one and while it was a good performer, even it left me wanting more sometimes. The 528 was dropping off while this Lunati was still going strong.
This 5 speed will not shift if I'm revving much over 6000 rpms and the Lunati makes the most power from 3000 rpm to well above 6000.
I need something that makes power between 2000 and 6000 rpms.
Sooooooooo

I e ran quite a few cams over the years from
Direct Connection , Sig Erson , Isky , Crane ,
And Did Not Encounter Any Cam or Lifter
Failures . Even with Rhodes Lifters ….

I have always used STP in addition
To Quality Oils , Amalie , Royal Purple , Mobil 1 , Rotella , & lots of regular LUV …….
I used to buzz my Hilborn Injected 426 Hemi to 9grand , it had A DC590Cam & Lifter Setup , worked fine . Amalie 20-50 & STP….
I also have 325000 on a 05 Ram 1500 with a 5.7 Hemi & No Ticky - Ricky….. Synthetic Oils & Moly supplements, STP …..
& Lotsa LUV ….. Open the Hood Daily & LOOK!…..
Mopar2ya!
John
 
I have always used STP in addition
To Quality Oils....... Amalie 20-50 & STP….
I also have 325000 on a 05 Ram 1500 with a 5.7 Hemi ….. Synthetic Oils & Moly supplements, STP …..
Do you mean this stuff?

1738647341524.png


There is a forum member that uses this stuff:

1738647412514.png
 
Do you mean this stuff?

View attachment 1800297

There is a forum member that uses this stuff:

View attachment 1800298

Do you mean this stuff?

View attachment 1800297

There is a forum member that uses this stuff:

View attachment 1800298
Yes ! STP , In All Its Blends ..
Back in the 70’s I was working in a gas station / repair shop & an the shop mechanic
Was teaching us kids about engines & friction…..AND How Oil works….. yes , I was curious! He opened a can of motor oil & a can of STP . Grabbed a flat tip screwdriver from his toolbox & dipped the tip in oil and asked us to hold the tip of the screwdriver between our fingers .. we all could without it slipping from our fingers …..
THEN
He Did the same thing with STP & no one could hold the screwdriver between their fingers like they did with the oil . It always slipped out of our grip ….
Well well well , lesson #1 in the coefficient of friction …..Now Extrapolate That With Metals & motion …..
Do the math Einstein!
Mopar2ya!
John
 
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