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Yankee Express RestoMod Project

Glad to see back at it, creativity and all.:thumbsup:


Nice artwork, idea sounds pretty slick too. I'm curious to see what you come up with if you decide to do it.
 
747mopar said:
Glad to see back at it, creativity and all.:thumbsup:


Nice artwork, idea sounds pretty slick too. I'm curious to see what you come up with if you decide to do it.
Click to expand...
Here's the low profile Crossfire mechanism. $ 198.00 used.

s-l1600.jpg
 
747mopar said:
Looks like it's go time lol. Any chance you could get the formed pocket that it sits in or are you modifying the size?
Click to expand...
It will go across the entire back end and up halfway on the slopes of the quarters. The tray it will sit in should end up about an inch deep or so. I really don't need the wing plate, just the mechanism. I'll investigate pushing those scissor mounts outboard another foot and a half as well. The way that thing moves is it lifts the wing up about an inch and a half then tilts the rear edge up from there. A sort of two stage movement. Which is what I would need too. That keeps the front edge of the spoiler from impacting the front lip of the tray. I'll cut out a template of the shape of the spoiler and get it sized and located where I want it and then trace a line onto the metal of the trunk lid and quarter tops. I should only need to cut the vertical walls of the tray from sheet metal as the cut out panel would serve as the bottom of the tray. Once the tray and spoiler are in and fitting like I want. I'll investigate the installation position of the mechanism and how the arms protrude through the tray, and where. This will ensure the least possible opening in the metal. Also it will be interesting to fix the contour of the spoiler to match the shape of the cross section of the deck lid and quarters. My idea is to use a length of bendable metal rod to get the matching contour shape 360* of the spoiler edges. Once that can be set inside the tray on spacers so that the top of the rod is flush all the way around when viewed from on edge across all of the surfaces , THAT will be the frame upon which I hang fiberglass. With a metal mesh to fill in the inner space between the rods. Should be stiff enough to hold up. This will allow me to get the contours right with out needing a shrinker/ stretcher which would be tedious in metal. Should work. lol.
 
Hey-O said:
Three piece tray, quarter trays with their own drains, dropped down the thickness of the spoiler and the spoiler running past the deck lid when it's open. The center drain hose in the deck lid could drain by the rear wheel wells, like the windshield washer hose on cars that have the squirters mounted on the hood. I don't know if I said that right.
Click to expand...
They way I see it is that the trunk lid is curved down from the center to each side. The quarter tops curve down as well to the gutters except for the last couple of inches. There I would make the tray slope to the gutters on each side just a bit. The gutters are about 1 1/4" deep relative to the deck lid surface.
 
My only hesitation is about the deck lid frame. How to keep that strong enough to stop flexing due to the tray cut out.
 
Ghostrider 67 said:
It will go across the entire back end and up halfway on the slopes of the quarters. The tray it will sit in should end up about an inch deep or so. I really don't need the wing plate, just the mechanism. I'll investigate pushing those scissor mounts outboard another foot and a half as well. The way that thing moves is it lifts the wing up about an inch and a half then tilts the rear edge up from there. A sort of two stage movement. Which is what I would need too. That keeps the front edge of the spoiler from impacting the front lip of the tray. I'll cut out a template of the shape of the spoiler and get it sized and located where I want it and then trace a line onto the metal of the trunk lid and quarter tops. I should only need to cut the vertical walls of the tray from sheet metal as the cut out panel would serve as the bottom of the tray. Once the tray and spoiler are in and fitting like I want. I'll investigate the installation position of the mechanism and how the arms protrude through the tray, and where. This will ensure the least possible opening in the metal. Also it will be interesting to fix the contour of the spoiler to match the shape of the cross section of the deck lid and quarters. My idea is to use a length of bendable metal rod to get the matching contour shape 360* of the spoiler edges. Once that can be set inside the tray on spacers so that the top of the rod is flush all the way around when viewed from on edge across all of the surfaces , THAT will be the frame upon which I hang fiberglass. With a metal mesh to fill in the inner space between the rods. Should be stiff enough to hold up. This will allow me to get the contours right with out needing a shrinker/ stretcher which would be tedious in metal. Should work. lol.
Click to expand...
You are totally nuts sir, and I love it!!! :thumbsup:
 
Build the tray with the bottom in it, flip the deck lid, inside facing up. Jig the deck lid so it stay in its original position. Die grind a slit through the bracing and drop the tray in and weld in place. Run angle iron to the tray on both ends and in the center on the bracing. Angle across the tray and over the the angle on the bracing and weld. Flip over and cut deck opening. Make spoiler out of 1/8 inch flat stock and curve up the ends to match the quarters.
 
Hey-O said:
Build the tray with the bottom in it, flip the deck lid, inside facing up. Jig the deck lid so it stay in its original position. Die grind a slit through the bracing and drop the tray in and weld in place. Run angle iron to the tray on both ends and in the center on the bracing. Angle across the tray and over the the angle on the bracing and weld. Flip over and cut deck opening. Make spoiler out of 1/8 inch flat stock and curve up the ends to match the quarters.
Click to expand...
I read that twice and still don't get it. Got a drawing? or type it slower? lol.
RU saying don't cut the deck lid surface until the lid has been flipped upside down with the underside facing up. Take the assembled tray and turn IT upside down and trace out the cut lines across the stock lid bracing and cut it out. Drop the the upside tray down into the cut out area and weld in place to the cut ends of the stock bracing? Or RU saying to make room around the tray for angle iron to be welded to the original bracing cut ends and to the tray sides , THEN cut open the deck lid? Not so much concerned with the quarter top areas as they are small will be strong enough once the tray is welded in place.
 
The sections where the arrows point to are deep enough for the tray to slide under/ set in a cut out trough without completely cutting through the meat of that brace. The others are too shallow and would be sliced through. So, I suppose the thing to do would be to cut out the shallow sections where the tray will set, all the way across. Now wait a minute here.......
Those shallow ones are NOT too shallow if I am going to use the 1/8" aluminum. In which case I would only need to slice open the deck lid surface and slice into the ribs only as deep as the tray needs to set in into them. Like 5/8" or so, maybe 11/16". Leaving the floor of the bracing structure intact. Once the tray is fully welded up...THEN...I could cut into those braces to set the motor and linkages in place, after which I could fabricate a couple of braces to run from front of car to rear of car on the underside of the lid that weld to the bracing frame sections, the bottom of the tray and to the cross brace at the back end of the lid where it begins to curve downward. Would then place some hood skin putty under all edges to fix the skin in place. Like a mini "C" or "U" notched frame. The outer ends wouldn't hang down far enough to interfere with the gutter as the seal runs along the bottom of the big ribs to either side. The rain would still drop into the gutters. Does any of this make sense? lol.



Inkeds-l1600_LI.jpg
 
How would I affix the lifting arms to the underside of the aluminum wing? I could place tiny rubber bumpers in the trays for the wing to rest upon when down to eliminate rattling and flexing, like the ones inside some glove box doors.
 
which case I would only need to slice open the deck lid surface and slice into the ribs only as deep as the tray needs to set in into them. Like 5/8" or so, maybe 11/16". Leaving the floor of the bracing structure intact. True!!! The wing is made of 1/8 metal flat stock, easy to weld and more rigid. I didn't realize how thick the bracing was. Cut out the pockets and slide the tray in.
 
After you cut the pockets in the outside rails, draw a line across from one pocket to the other and cut the center bracing out . Side the tray in and weld to the outside and center braces. Flip and cut deck lid out.
 
Yeah, I too forgot how deep those ridges were..
How about fastening the lift arms to the underside of the al u mi ni um?
 
Ghostrider 67 said:
Yeah, I too forgot how deep those ridges were..
How about fastening the lift arms to the underside of the al u mi ni um?
Click to expand...
1/8 steel flat stock, weld. More rigid. Put the bends in the ends where it goes over the quarters. We're way past worrying about weight.
 
Hey-O said:
1/8 steel flat stock, weld. More rigid. Put the bends in the ends where it goes over the quarters. We're way past worrying about weight.
Click to expand...
Hmm. Not sure the little motor will lift that much weight....That Crossfire wing is tiny.
 
Yeah, i have never seen one up close so I have no intel on it's sea worthiness.
 
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