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Yankee Express RestoMod Project

THEN......in another place I read this:

This is a subject that has been reviewed many times. First, the vacuum advance module on the distributor should be attached to the small hose nipple in the base plate of the carburetor so as to pull manifold vacuum thus giving full vacuum distributor advance at idle. The reason it's done this way is to make for a cooler running smoother idling street use motor. Connecting the distributor vacuum advance module to "timed" vacuum (the small hose nipple usually located on the side of the Holley primary metering block) would just add vacuum advance to centrifugal advance as engine speed increases and end up with too much total advance (confusing, ain't it).

So I guess I was right the first time. I'll plug off the one on the side of the metering block.
 
So, I saw this: SO, THAT"S what it is.....

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Next question, The rubber grommet on the driver side valve cover, which I presume is for a PCV valve is tiny. The hole doesn't look big enough for one.

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So, I watched a video by a guy who is a tech guru for Holley. He says that I need to hook my vac advance to the ported outlet and add in a little initial advance to the timing. It will run better this way. I guess I'll wait and see.
 
BS! Rodger get off you duff and start looking at these threads! Lol!
 
Rolled the shell outside and turned the garAGE INTo a paint booth.

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One possible problem from wet floors is causing moisture in the air. It's probably okay in very dry desert air, or if you have a good flowing ventilation system blowing through your paint booth.

But, ideally, just as you wouldn't paint when too hot or too cold, you should ensure proper moisture content in the air. 40-50% is about ideal, so if you're on the edge of that then wetting the floor can cause problems. Many people finish a paint job and wonder why it looks dirty; they thought they had removed all the dust. In reality, the extra moisture, sucked in at the gun nozzle and mixed with the paint on it's way to the car body has reacted with the isocyanate which starts to form white, gray or black specks. It wasn't dirt, it's the actual paint not liking moist air.

Also, I know it's summer now and not likely a problem, but if the temperature was on the cool side, some of that moisture could condense on the cool car body before the paint hit it and interfere with the paint bond, causing blisters or lifting later on. At best, the clear coat could have some blushing introduced that never quite goes away.

Myself, I don't have a moisture gauge in the shop area even though they're relatively cheap on Amazon - I just look at the weather app on my computer. If you do happen to have one however, do yourself a little test and see how much the moisture levels rise when wetting down the floor.
 
One possible problem from wet floors is causing moisture in the air. It's probably okay in very dry desert air, or if you have a good flowing ventilation system blowing through your paint booth.

But, ideally, just as you wouldn't paint when too hot or too cold, you should ensure proper moisture content in the air. 40-50% is about ideal, so if you're on the edge of that then wetting the floor can cause problems. Many people finish a paint job and wonder why it looks dirty; they thought they had removed all the dust. In reality, the extra moisture, sucked in at the gun nozzle and mixed with the paint on it's way to the car body has reacted with the isocyanate which starts to form white, gray or black specks. It wasn't dirt, it's the actual paint not liking moist air.

Also, I know it's summer now and not likely a problem, but if the temperature was on the cool side, some of that moisture could condense on the cool car body before the paint hit it and interfere with the paint bond, causing blisters or lifting later on. At best, the clear coat could have some blushing introduced that never quite goes away.

Myself, I don't have a moisture gauge in the shop area even though they're relatively cheap on Amazon - I just look at the weather app on my computer. If you do happen to have one however, do yourself a little test and see how much the moisture levels rise when wetting down the floor.
We had around 55% humidity today and I was spraying at around 73*. It was just primer.
 
Working on hood and trunk lid today. I ran out of grey high build primer yesterday but had enough to get a partial coat on the last fender. I still need some on the rear bumper too so i'll get a spray can and do those up. The hood is going in black, so I got the top surface ready for primer and then turned it over and prepped the bottom and sprayed it in Epoxy Urethane black primer. It will be a while before I can pick it up and turn it over. Once I get the other side in epoxy primer and dry i'll sand and wipe down and spray the black urethane Eastwood Under hood Black and when THAT is good and dry I'll tape off the top for the Brown metallic. It will be a similar design to this Dart hood...

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Shoot the hinges in the morning and get them all hung tomorrow and get ready to spray the whole thing after I do the trunk lid along with the hinges.
 
Hung the door and fender on the left side today. Can't wait to get it all painted in one shade! lol. Did the trunk lid too.

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