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I used gaskets on mine only because after 1000's of heat cycles I can only assume the surfaces are no longer 100% flat.

I've never heard of anyone removing heads with the headers still attached. If they're stock heads (big block?) drain as much coolant as you can first then remove the headers.

I think MSD stuff is way overrated and your money could be better spent elsewhere. The Mopar Performance electronic ignition set up is actually a really good ignition system, I have it on all my engines ranging from a stock 318 to a 500+hp 440. The performer series intake is nothing to brag...

These torsion bars are garbage, I have no idea why they haven't discontinued them. The .96" bars are made by Mopar Performance and will fit perfect. For whatever odd reason, PST doesn't think their 1.03" bars need to be clocked differently to work because they are larger....

This

I used Rhoads hydraulic lifters which tell you to pump them full of oil before you install them so I'm not sure of this applies to other brands or not. Basically, I adjusted the pushrod down until it just began to plunge the lifter, then turned the adjusting screw 1/4" turn more then locked it...

The 400 has a very large bore, 4.34" vs 4.25 for the 383, so they are a little easier to make compression and power with.

The "high compression" 383's you're referring to are in reality more like 9.2-9.5:1. The best pistons I've found, which the aftermarket sucks for 383's, are the Speed Pro 2315's. They have a taller compression height and are a flat top design with no valve reliefs. I had .010" cut off my block...

If the chamber's are 75cc it would be a great head for a substantial compression bump on 383's and 400's. If they had these a year ago, I wouldn't have bought my Stealths. But I still do like the "factory appearing" look.

It seems like I've read the KB figure you're talking about and they didn't make any sense. I think I calculated it when I did mine and with the KB400, shaving the block for ~ zero deck, .030 over and .039" head gaskets with the Stealth heads was barely 10:1. The small bore and short stroke make...

I tend to believe that clones are worth less unless you started with a generic 318 car and cloned it into a Hemi/Max Wedge/Six Pack car. A Sebring Plus is not a generic car either, but won't be worth as much as a Road Runner or GTX. If the car is salvagable, I would still try to save it as it's...

My '77 police package B Body Monaco, 440, etc. It has the stock "971" pan w/windage tray.

Did you measure the bore of the cylinder? I think a stock 340 bore is 4.04"

It seems like a good kit, I just don't like the low CR. What heads are you going to use?

I've come to the conclusion that 440 Source doesn't know what they're talking about half of the time. I bought a set of heads, somehow lost the paper work, called for the torque spec they recommend, later found the paperwork, needless to say they were way off on the torque spec and the guy on...

I'll second the TTI's. Hooker Headers suck. I mistakingly bought a set for my Charger with a 440. They are the 2" Super Comp ceramic coated headers. They fity like absolute crap, ending up clipping a tie rod end (???) which ripped a gash in them, had to re-shape and weld it. Also interfered with...

I love this site so much....someone can actually voice their opinion/state facts on Obama/the government and not get banned/locked.

The Stealth heads should be a closed chamber design, so I wouldn't worry about the KB400's just to get the compression up. You should be able to go with Speed Pro 2315's if I remember the part number correctly. Cutting ~.010" off the block should give you pretty good quench and ~9.5-9.7:1 CR...

I would leave the 3.23 in the Super Bee. I have a 3.23 in a '68 Satellite with a 383 and it wouldn't be worth swapping a 2.76 in and lose the performance when I'm already getting 17 mpg having fun with it.