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1964 Fury, shaking and wants to stall at stop light, but idles well in neutral and drives smooth

The Carter tuning manual I have suggests turning the mixture screw in 1/8" turn after reaching maximum RPM.
It says it helps keep the plugs from getting fouled. I've done it this way and it works well.
Idle speed is really a trial and error thing. If you have a tight converter raising it too high is a bad idea, then the car wants to pull at a stop and it just heats up the trans fluid. Just high enough so it doesn't shake is how I do it.
Is your vacuum advance working? Did you have it capped when you set the timing?
 
The Carter tuning manual I have suggests turning the mixture screw in 1/8" turn after reaching maximum RPM.
It says it helps keep the plugs from getting fouled. I've done it this way and it works well.
Idle speed is really a trial and error thing. If you have a tight converter raising it too high is a bad idea, then the car wants to pull at a stop and it just heats up the trans fluid. Just high enough so it doesn't shake is how I do it.
Is your vacuum advance working? Did you have it capped when you set the timing?
I think my vaccum advance is working, at least last time I checked. I can remember how I set the timing and if I capped it, but my timing light confirmed it at exactly 15 tdc. Actually now that I'm thinking... I never set it, I only checked it with a timing light a couple months back and it was at 15, the PO must of had it set to that.

The car pulls well now and feels like it has plenty of power now that I've driven it around a while.

It DEFINATELY wants to creep forward at a stop, with little more force that I want it to tbh. I think that's the big reason it sort of starts to shake. And that's why I thought initially turning it down was my best bet but I guess not. Am yes I was worried it was stressing out my trans somehow. So you think this could be acting up because I have a freshly rebuilt torque converter?

Ok so idle needs to be higher, but not to high. I'll try 700 and see where that gets me.

I think I got the mixture screws down, one question I have is do I want to turn both screws to the same point or does that not matter and just do it by ear and reading rpms. I'm thinking with a perfect carb you would want both turned the same amount but I guess the carb could have little imperfections or differences from side to side.
 
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If you unplug the vacuum line at an idle or slightly above it should slow down a bit.
Plug back in it should speed up, a quick check with no timing light.
Base timing is set with Vacuum advance disconnected and plugged.
 
When setting idle mixture. Almost always I find one side responds a little better than the other. So I use that one to gauge number of turns out on the weaker side. A couple iterations are sometimes required. In the end they should be pretty close, but they don't have to be identical. Should be set with engine at operating temperature, make note of atmospheric conditions.
 
FYI
It's customary after solving problems like this to perform a somewhat large burnout.
 
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