Yes, 66 only hemi, starter and horn relay with a positive stud to get battery power from for both.
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2
- Thread starter dadsbee
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Anyone with the right tools and key cards. Lots of googling and thread following and I've got these so far.. and I'm not sure that my many years of Fortan IV are any help!! LOL
Yup Hemi only. Starter relay and possibly a horn relay.
Horn relay.
Ah, fortran, I took that, and basic, too. I took another language too but it escapes me now. I also did C++, but it's been ages, and I still can't make sense of that card and the decode info.
66 Hemi cars only
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No offense, but that looks really out of place and somewhat of a crude afterthought.
The Hemi's valve covers and heads interfere with where those items go on the firewall. They did some changes in 67 to eliminate that panel.
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That and I have absolutely no idea why they just didn't leave both relays where they were on any other engined car! Maybe tight with a booster, but manual brakes I can't see why that starter relay can't be on the firewall like any other car. Horn relay under the horns like a '69.
Anyhow reminds me that I have to get that cleaned up and the new positive/starter cable installed, along with other things. Need to pull the cluster and fix my fuel gauge and install a new speedometer cable in it's correct location while I'm in there.
Agreed. But it's original so...... not much choice. Prob why the guy that had my hemi and a coronet hemi removed it from both cars. I had to buy a harness for mine but had the original relay bracket with the car, just not on it.
It is a bit crude but sort of an iconic detail for the first year of the Street Hemi. I’ve looked at so many photos of these 66 Hemi engine compartments, if I were to look at one and not immediately see that panel, I would know something was up with the car.
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Chrysler did weird/unique stuff with Hemi cars, such as it’s own fuel pump pushrod & distributor hold down bracket, routing the oil pressure sender wire through the positive battery cable harness, lower alternator adjustment bracket, 2 piece engine wiring harness and rear axle upper bumpers. I’m sure there are other unique weirdnesses that I haven’t listed.
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Thought I'd get to seeing why my fuel gauge quit working when installing the new RTE IVR4 last month+ ago and while in there I'd install the proper speedometer cable through the correct firewall hole. This quickly cluster f'd into a full afternoon and then some.
Looks like someone bought too long of a speedometer cable at some point and got creative running it. It supposed to go through that hole below and to the right of the brake master cylinder.
Since the cable on the car has also been cooked on the exhaust at some point and is crusty I bought the correct new, reproduction, one. $60US
'66 cable, both ends are threaded nuts, unlike '68 and up with the plastic clip end at the speedometer. Do yourself a favour and make sure you buy a cable with the firewall sealing grommet already in place!
So we go from this, that was a simple speedo cable install and wiring check to get the fuel gauge working, to a full snowballing cluster ....
To remove the instrument cluster the heater control face plate has to come off, two screws.
Then to get the heater control plate off you have to remove the control lever knobs with a small allen key for the set screw on the bottom edge.
Face plate off, now you have to remove the two screws that hold the heater control mechanism to the instrument cluster.
Then you tuck the control down and back into the dash.
Then lower the steering column by removing (4 screws) the filler plate under it and then backing off the retaining collars two x 7/16" nuts to the end of the stud threads.
Six screws out of the instrument cluster and it can then be CAREFULLY pulled forward and out. While doing so you can see the two wiring harness retaining clips and spread them open to get more slack. I probably should have stuck my head up under the dash and done that first!
Looks like someone bought too long of a speedometer cable at some point and got creative running it. It supposed to go through that hole below and to the right of the brake master cylinder.
Since the cable on the car has also been cooked on the exhaust at some point and is crusty I bought the correct new, reproduction, one. $60US
'66 cable, both ends are threaded nuts, unlike '68 and up with the plastic clip end at the speedometer. Do yourself a favour and make sure you buy a cable with the firewall sealing grommet already in place!
So we go from this, that was a simple speedo cable install and wiring check to get the fuel gauge working, to a full snowballing cluster ....
To remove the instrument cluster the heater control face plate has to come off, two screws.
Then to get the heater control plate off you have to remove the control lever knobs with a small allen key for the set screw on the bottom edge.
Face plate off, now you have to remove the two screws that hold the heater control mechanism to the instrument cluster.
Then you tuck the control down and back into the dash.
Then lower the steering column by removing (4 screws) the filler plate under it and then backing off the retaining collars two x 7/16" nuts to the end of the stud threads.
Six screws out of the instrument cluster and it can then be CAREFULLY pulled forward and out. While doing so you can see the two wiring harness retaining clips and spread them open to get more slack. I probably should have stuck my head up under the dash and done that first!
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I now have a better view of the circuit board and voltage regulator that runs the fuel and engine temperature gauges. Something is loose in that 5 wire plug as I can make the fuel gauge work by wiggling it around. I can also make the left turn signal indicator work or not work. NOTE: You need to run a ground wire from the cluster housing to the car body for things to work correctly as the screws you removed WERE the ground path!!
Of course at this point I notice a wire connector that is hanging loose behind the cluster...
Out comes the bible to try and figure out wtf that wire came from. Violet wire into the variable speed wiper switch.
I've seen enough at this point and I have no other choice but to pull the cluster completely.
Everything unplugs except for the amperage gauge. Two 3/8" nuts. Wires look great, many are found heat damaged.
Shot to show how clean the original stuff is behind the cluster in this 57 year old car.
Out and ready to tear more apart.
One pin broken completely off the circuit board and the other four are ready to fall off.
Circuit board removed. 4 screws and the 4 nuts from the coolant temperature and fuel gauge studs.
Only one pin still has the 4 swages on the back of the board... and it's the one that's broken off! The rest are ready to fall off.
Of course at this point I notice a wire connector that is hanging loose behind the cluster...
Out comes the bible to try and figure out wtf that wire came from. Violet wire into the variable speed wiper switch.
I've seen enough at this point and I have no other choice but to pull the cluster completely.
Everything unplugs except for the amperage gauge. Two 3/8" nuts. Wires look great, many are found heat damaged.
Shot to show how clean the original stuff is behind the cluster in this 57 year old car.
Out and ready to tear more apart.
One pin broken completely off the circuit board and the other four are ready to fall off.
Circuit board removed. 4 screws and the 4 nuts from the coolant temperature and fuel gauge studs.
Only one pin still has the 4 swages on the back of the board... and it's the one that's broken off! The rest are ready to fall off.
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Thinking of how to reinforce the pins and the light bulb went off that I should have some 1/16th AN rivets in the hangar.
How's that for a BINGO !
Pressed the rivet inside the hollow pin with channel locks squeezing both together.
Heated each one up with the soldering iron and flowed some solder in between the board and the pin and bonded the board, rivet and pin together x 5. Ready to reinstall.
I had noticed the instrument light dimmer control was erratic, before I pulled it, so cleaned up the rheostat and tested it while the cluster is out.
Circuit board back in and RTE's IVR4 electronic voltage limiter back into place. I replaced the mechanical OE voltage limiter that have a habit of sticking and cooking the gauges. Gauges run off a pulsing 5 volts, when the regulators stick they get 12V and fry.
All the light bulbs checked ready to go. Not pulling this out again..
Stuff I always like to see. Nov 13 1965 validates the originality of the car with a cluster just shy of the production date of the car.
All ready to put back into the car and hope everything works.
How's that for a BINGO !
Pressed the rivet inside the hollow pin with channel locks squeezing both together.
Heated each one up with the soldering iron and flowed some solder in between the board and the pin and bonded the board, rivet and pin together x 5. Ready to reinstall.
I had noticed the instrument light dimmer control was erratic, before I pulled it, so cleaned up the rheostat and tested it while the cluster is out.
Circuit board back in and RTE's IVR4 electronic voltage limiter back into place. I replaced the mechanical OE voltage limiter that have a habit of sticking and cooking the gauges. Gauges run off a pulsing 5 volts, when the regulators stick they get 12V and fry.
All the light bulbs checked ready to go. Not pulling this out again..
Stuff I always like to see. Nov 13 1965 validates the originality of the car with a cluster just shy of the production date of the car.
All ready to put back into the car and hope everything works.
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Nice, and harder than 68 up? I think that is easier tha the same vintage Charger.
That is truly working at the BAR!
I've felt some of your pain, not the cable or the pins though.
Wow, nice fix. I’ve often wondered what could be done if one of those pins came loose. Also, I hate having to pull or replace the panel in my 66 or 67. It’s nerve wracking trying to get everything pulled loose or reconnected and not mar something up in the process. 
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You realize that you've watched "The Repair Shop" show on TV too much when you start using your own spit and a Q tip to clean stuff!
So tempted to open this cluster up and get the bit of dust inside, but ain't happening.
Now I know what other '66/'67 Plymouth owners were talking about with the broken defroster mounts.
The cheapest thinnest plastic I've seen since a dollar store wallpaper tray.
This stuff works pretty darn good on oddball stuff, so I'll give it a whirl on this plastic.
Defroster vent held in place to glue the broken mounting tab back on.
Just like the dentist. Apply the goop, then UV light it to cure.
Back on just like that, almost instant.
Why I never throw out the discs from hole sawing. They make great penny washers. Relieved to clear the duct and will transfer the load vs just a nut.
Washer on both ends and back into the dash of the car.
So tempted to open this cluster up and get the bit of dust inside, but ain't happening.
Now I know what other '66/'67 Plymouth owners were talking about with the broken defroster mounts.
The cheapest thinnest plastic I've seen since a dollar store wallpaper tray.
This stuff works pretty darn good on oddball stuff, so I'll give it a whirl on this plastic.
Defroster vent held in place to glue the broken mounting tab back on.
Just like the dentist. Apply the goop, then UV light it to cure.
Back on just like that, almost instant.
Why I never throw out the discs from hole sawing. They make great penny washers. Relieved to clear the duct and will transfer the load vs just a nut.
Washer on both ends and back into the dash of the car.
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I guess the previous guy that replaced the dash pad wanted that defrost hose more than the car did.
2.25" hose is needed to fit over the heater box and defroster vent tubes. I had a nice 2" finished end aircraft SCAT hose in the hangar that just happened to be the perfect length and slipped tightly inside the tubes to get the job done.
Remember that snowball.... the dash pad had a couple of sags in it so investigating the matter I found that the last bugger was lazy and left 4 nuts off the pads mounting studs and only did the center and each end. The only good is the 66 cardboard glove box liner is 2 parts vs the single of new cars so access was pretty easy.
Glove box liner needs some minor repairs to it's cardboard/poster board material. Mounting screw plate torn out in one spot and some other deteriorating areas.
Found a loose piece in the box that's big enough to fix the area and some clip on screw plates to replace the missing embedded one.
Super Glue to the rescue and left for the night.
Still can't believe how clean this car is behind stuff. Like brand new. Guess I should add some penny washers to the passenger defrost vent mounts as well while I'm in here, as I'm not coming back!
2.25" hose is needed to fit over the heater box and defroster vent tubes. I had a nice 2" finished end aircraft SCAT hose in the hangar that just happened to be the perfect length and slipped tightly inside the tubes to get the job done.
Remember that snowball.... the dash pad had a couple of sags in it so investigating the matter I found that the last bugger was lazy and left 4 nuts off the pads mounting studs and only did the center and each end. The only good is the 66 cardboard glove box liner is 2 parts vs the single of new cars so access was pretty easy.
Glove box liner needs some minor repairs to it's cardboard/poster board material. Mounting screw plate torn out in one spot and some other deteriorating areas.
Found a loose piece in the box that's big enough to fix the area and some clip on screw plates to replace the missing embedded one.
Super Glue to the rescue and left for the night.
Still can't believe how clean this car is behind stuff. Like brand new. Guess I should add some penny washers to the passenger defrost vent mounts as well while I'm in here, as I'm not coming back!
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