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1968 Coronet 500 Project

I NEVER thought I would be saying this but I do kinda wish it was a big block..... It tends to want to make you put your foot in it a lot.....
 
I NEVER thought I would be saying this but I do kinda wish it was a big block..... It tends to want to make you put your foot in it a lot.....
2017-04-03-01-45-28-1566087785.jpeg
 
Just let it roll of your tongue a few times...you will like the sound of it!!

5 0 5 CUBIC INCHES

5 1 2 CUBIC INCHES

H E M I

:thumbsup:
 
Hahaha! I thought I would be gentle and mention big blocks first (somewhat cheaper)...then HEMI...but yes, no substitute for the 572!!
 
Jesus, you guys are brutal!

Jim, saw your trans thread. Did you get it to shift?
 
LOL! Not being brutal at all....I would give up my left one just to have this car as is, never mind a big block/HEMI swap....damn fine car and an awesome job on the resto!!!

:thumbsup:
 
Well I am done for a bit. Pulled the cluster out (PIA with the dash in the car I may add) and it is the speedo head. Gonna call Dicks Speed-O-Tach tomorrow and see when he can get it in. They claim 24 hour repairs....
 
Any tricks, or tips on doing this job? I need to pull my cluster someday just to clean, detail, and replace some lamps and sockets.
 
Well I am done for a bit. Pulled the cluster out (PIA with the dash in the car I may add) and it is the speedo head. Gonna call Dicks Speed-O-Tach tomorrow and see when he can get it in. They claim 24 hour repairs....

Let me know what they say, I have an extra speedo that needs fixed for my GTX.
 
Any tricks, or tips on doing this job? I need to pull my cluster someday just to clean, detail, and replace some lamps and sockets.

Not really, just practice your swearing vocabulary. It is easier without AC for sure. You can take the dimmer switch screw out from the back and remove it that allows the switch panel to be more "easily" pulled from the dash. Without removing it I don't know if it is possible to get it out. You don't have to take the lower pad completely off. Just the upper screws behind the switch plate and the 3 lower nuts to the left of the column then you can move the pad just enough to get the cluster screws out, roll the cluster forward and get the Ammeter nuts off and the connector unplugged.

You should be able to replace the sockets with it in. I think I will need to remove the key switch to reconnect the wires to the wiper and washer switches though. With that removed you can likely get to the sockets on the right.
 
BTW, I used TJs speedometer in Tucson to repair a odometer in my old Lancer years ago and he did a great job at a reasonable price.
 
Know anyone going to Tempe tomorrow to take it to Dicks Speed-o-tach?
 
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