RT68440
Well-Known Member
Congrats! The car sounds and looks great! I can only imagine what that feels like. I can not wait until that day comes for me!!!
1968 Coronet 500 Project
- Thread starter JimKueneman
- Start date
Glenwood
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 10:55 PM
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2015
- Messages
- 2,929
- Reaction score
- 2,849
- Location
- Kawartha Lakes, Ontario
Jim is probably still negotiating his royalty fees!
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Mac or PC?
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Well I tacked in a test circuit and fixed a FiTech problem. When I was getting over 1500 RPM on the handheld was all over the place, 2000...5200...3300...... I guessed it was the Tach wire from the coil and points having nasty ringing and causes multiple trigger levels to the ECU. I already added a 1k resistor in series anticipating this so I added a solid state protection device that will clamp at 20V and a diode drop in reverse voltage (.6V) and a 0.1uF capacitor to ground to help filter and protect the Tach to the ECU. Worked perfectly now. Nice stable signal all the way to 4000 RPM where I stopped.
Also pulled the AC down and tried to figure out what is wrong with the seal. I tried something, reconnected and tried to pull a vacuum. No dice, ordering another seal tonight.....
Also pulled the AC down and tried to figure out what is wrong with the seal. I tried something, reconnected and tried to pull a vacuum. No dice, ordering another seal tonight.....
Last edited:
Gary Bledsoe
New Member
Truly amazed at what you have done in such a short amount of time. You've motivated me to get going and I'm on it. With that being said, did you happen to post anywhere what you're 'garage paint booth' looked like? I getting much closer to that point on my project and my goal is to make a 'garage-built' restoration as much as possible.
--GaryB
--GaryB
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
I hung plastic from the ceiling, I would not do that again. It really did not do anything but cost money and time. I would do it outside next time (we don't have a lot of bugs in the early morning here)
dieseldazzle
Well-Known Member
Just had a shrader valve body self destruct on my classic auto air kit if your looking for leaks FYI.
Use my phone for the videos and no dice but I seen and heard enough stock 318 Mopar's I'm good.
Congratulations man and I know it's a great feeling. Now cruise the wheels off!
Use my phone for the videos and no dice but I seen and heard enough stock 318 Mopar's I'm good.
Congratulations man and I know it's a great feeling. Now cruise the wheels off!
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Clean and polished the front windshield trim and have it test fit to the car. Fits perfectly with the new trim clips from resoRick. Another Coronet owner here has had some problem with the reproduction clips and had to modify them slightly to get the trim flush. Mine fit perfectly so far. Also cleaned an polished the lower rear window trim and by the time I got all the RTV someone gooped in there I was done with that project for the night.
Started to buff out my front glass with the buffer and BonAmi. For 50 years old it looks really good with only one small chip. It is in better shape than the rear. The rear has 3 pretty good chips in it. I should replace it but..... Still need to really get after the rear glass with the buffer and BonAmi to get the scratches out that I made trying to get the trim off last year.
Sat and stared at the original AC compressor shaft seal and read the service manual 4 time will staring at the parts book graphic. I convinced myself I understand how that seal actually mechanically works now so I took the pump apart and reassembled with the seal stacked up like I think it is suppose to. It still leaks really bad. I am not sure if by now it is trashed with all the prying and screwdriver poking I have done to it. I can't find a real picture of the seal stack up and how it installs, just words that say "install x then install y" with no fine detail of which way to install them. Gonna ask around.
Started to buff out my front glass with the buffer and BonAmi. For 50 years old it looks really good with only one small chip. It is in better shape than the rear. The rear has 3 pretty good chips in it. I should replace it but..... Still need to really get after the rear glass with the buffer and BonAmi to get the scratches out that I made trying to get the trim off last year.
Sat and stared at the original AC compressor shaft seal and read the service manual 4 time will staring at the parts book graphic. I convinced myself I understand how that seal actually mechanically works now so I took the pump apart and reassembled with the seal stacked up like I think it is suppose to. It still leaks really bad. I am not sure if by now it is trashed with all the prying and screwdriver poking I have done to it. I can't find a real picture of the seal stack up and how it installs, just words that say "install x then install y" with no fine detail of which way to install them. Gonna ask around.
Last edited:
threewood
Well-Known Member
Awesome video! Smiles all around and it sounds nice. That orange sure stands out in the desert. My rear window clip repos don't hold my trim very tight so checking the fit was a good idea, I didn't.
I think RTV gooped around the rear window was a factory repair as there isn't an unrestored car out there that I have seen without it lol.
I think RTV gooped around the rear window was a factory repair as there isn't an unrestored car out there that I have seen without it lol.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Well I don't know how to edit and old post and tell everyone NOT to follow my lead on the compressor seal....
Here is the original seal...
Here is the original seal...
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Here is the new seal I think I get it now that I am looking at the packaging.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Ok I got it.... First you need to installed the sleeve in the housing. Note that this second seal was different than the first. The first had a raised ridge that is micro finished. This one had the entire surface micro finished and it is obvious since it is shiny.
Now the confusing part. Note this is not correct in the photo......and the way the parts are stacked in the package is not correct
If you think about the sealing that need to take place the ridge on the carbon ring (the top part in the photo above) seals against the micro finish so it is in the correct position in the photo. The spring carrier only has one side that the carbon ring will slide down into far enough to engage the tabs into the notches seen in the carbon ring (this is so the ring will not spin in the spring carrier). The "rubber" shaft seal then goes into the spring carrier to the BACK side of the carbon ring presses on the lip of the seal. Now when the cover is bolted on the micro finish plate presses on the carbon ring ridge (seen above) and the spring then pushes back on this plate and presses the lip of the seal against the back of carbon ring. This effectively make an "L" seal.
Connected up my 1980's vintage vacuum pump that can still pull 28 inHg!
It pulled the system down to 23 inHg immediately which is a HUGE improvement from the past attempts.
I have it still running but after an hour assembling the compressor it is pulled down to 25 inHg. I will let it run till I go to bed then leave it under vacuum and see what it is in the morning. I have had it open for a LONG time so I need to pull it down for at LONG time to get the moisture out since I don't have the ability to pressurize with dry nitrogen.
I also got my new mini air cleaner. I will be using the base to fabricate a 1967 air cleaner from a 318 car being parted out here on the forum.
Here is my (interim) completed engine compartment.
Now the confusing part. Note this is not correct in the photo......and the way the parts are stacked in the package is not correct
If you think about the sealing that need to take place the ridge on the carbon ring (the top part in the photo above) seals against the micro finish so it is in the correct position in the photo. The spring carrier only has one side that the carbon ring will slide down into far enough to engage the tabs into the notches seen in the carbon ring (this is so the ring will not spin in the spring carrier). The "rubber" shaft seal then goes into the spring carrier to the BACK side of the carbon ring presses on the lip of the seal. Now when the cover is bolted on the micro finish plate presses on the carbon ring ridge (seen above) and the spring then pushes back on this plate and presses the lip of the seal against the back of carbon ring. This effectively make an "L" seal.
Connected up my 1980's vintage vacuum pump that can still pull 28 inHg!
It pulled the system down to 23 inHg immediately which is a HUGE improvement from the past attempts.
I have it still running but after an hour assembling the compressor it is pulled down to 25 inHg. I will let it run till I go to bed then leave it under vacuum and see what it is in the morning. I have had it open for a LONG time so I need to pull it down for at LONG time to get the moisture out since I don't have the ability to pressurize with dry nitrogen.
I also got my new mini air cleaner. I will be using the base to fabricate a 1967 air cleaner from a 318 car being parted out here on the forum.
Here is my (interim) completed engine compartment.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
threewood
Well-Known Member
Awesome! Can't wait to do mine!!!
I already have the copper plates for mine, after I registered it and de-insured. Geico keeps sending me letters that they have notified my state that my vehicle is uninsured and I keel telling them the state already knows lol.
I already have the copper plates for mine, after I registered it and de-insured. Geico keeps sending me letters that they have notified my state that my vehicle is uninsured and I keel telling them the state already knows lol.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
For right now I just added it to my normal insurance, not the collector car insurance. Take a wild guess how much it cost me to insure it..... it raised it a whopping $14 every six months! (of course it pays me nothing if I get in a wreck or broken glass). I did not seem to allow me to create a custom Copper plate.
threewood
Well-Known Member
I don't believe the classic plates can be custom made.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Well I found a real automotive store in Sierra Vista that I did not know was there! I bought various parts like wire lugs, and EVERYTHING was made in the USA! Man you can tell the difference when working with quality parts.....
- License plate is INSTALLED!
- Insurance is OBTAINED
- AC is blowing COLD
- 3/8" and 5/16" 3M Windo-Weld Butyl windshield installation kits staged and READY
- EFI wiring is wired in permenently with the new made in the USA wiring eyelets
- Coronet is DRIPPING oil on my garage floor from the rear axle pumpkin, it is an American car after all (decades of leak free Hondas have made me soft)
Similar threads
