1968 Plymouth GTX

['68 Coronet R/T]

Took a picture of the adhesive locations for reference. Also drew a pencil line down the center and took measurements for the globs that weren't close to the open areas.

I used a propane torch with Mapp Gas and a chisel to remove the gobs of adhesive. Just warmed enough to soften, only a couple of seconds, and then scraped it off.
Then I used a hammer and dolly to straighten the edges and remove the dents.
Next I did a test fit to make sure it would go back together properly.

Back apart now for media blasting and then two coats of epoxy primer.

 

[moparedtn]

Took a picture of the adhesive locations for reference. Also drew a pencil line down the center and took measurements for the globs that weren't close to the open areas.
View attachment 1399204

I used a propane torch with Mapp Gas and a chisel to remove the gobs of adhesive. Just warmed enough to soften, only a couple of seconds, and then scraped it off.
Then I used a hammer and dolly to straighten the edges and remove the dents.
Next I did a test fit to make sure it would go back together properly.
View attachment 1399205

Back apart now for media blasting and then two coats of epoxy primer.

Wow, mercy! Glad you documented all that - so that folks like me lose any curiosity in ever doing the same.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

I don't think every car would be worth this effort. Most would get a rust converter applied and call it good.
The '68 GTX is getting very rare and if I ever do sell this one, I will have photo documentation of ALL rust being removed. Though it will probably be sold well after I'm gone. LOL

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Started media blasting the frame today. The colder temperatures kept causing condensation on the inside of the plastic view port. It was very slow going, having to stop and dry the thing off every couple of minutes.

Rain in the forecast for tomorrow, so I may need to wait a while longer before getting back at it.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Got the frame done and starting on the skin.

 

[Pistol Pete]

Lookin' good

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Got the skin done and both panels in epoxy.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Got it reassembled today and letting it sit 24 hours for the NVH-60 to cure.
Gonna be a high electric bill since I have to keep the booth above 60 degrees for the next 24 hours. Tonight's low is 13 degrees and tomorrow's high only 46 degrees. My little space heater will be working overtime.

 

[MarPar]

Tonight's low is 13 degrees and tomorrow's high only 46 degrees.

Are you sure you're not in Chicago?? lol

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Are you sure you're not in Chicago?? lol

Absolutely!
I live at 4400' elevation so we get a touch of the 4 seasons. Generally 2 hot months and 2 cold months but the rest of the year is sunshine and 80 degrees.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Needing some help with the deck lid torsion bars.
View attachment 1349648

Decided to install the deck lid to check the fit. Problem I am having is the when I close the trunk lid, these bars make a very loud "pop" sound. I even put a dab of grease between the plastic bushing and cam surface.

If I raise the lid to full open, these will actually come loose and fall out of their slots.
Is this because I don't have enough tension on them??

I have a very short video recording of the hinge during the popping sound but don't know how to upload it.

Okay, I finally got this problem solved.

Basically, the issue is the top portion of the slots that the bars ride in. They are supposed to retain the bar at the farthest forward position but because they were worn and slightly deformed the bars would slide toward the rear of the car with a loud "pop" and drop down enough for the hinge to slip by.

I tried getting one of the slots back into original shape, as best I could, and it solved the problem temporarily. Unfortunately the metal is too weak now to hold it's shape.

The solution was to cut a thick 3/8" diameter washer in half and tack weld it into place under each rod while held in the forward position. This creates a cradle for the bar to rest in and it worked so well that I could even increase the tension on the rods with no popping or slippage.

The tensions bars can still be removed when necessary just as before

I will try to post a photo a bit later.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Today I got some epoxy primer applied to the underside of the trunk lid.
Once it cures some, I will apply seam sealer to all the edges where the metal is folded over and then shoot another coat of epoxy primer before moving to the top side.

 

[ct71rr]

Nicely done! Glad to hear you got the trunk lid issue resolved! I’ve been separating epoxy too. My wife’s going to kill me when we get the next electric bill!

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

My wife has a She Shed where she does quilting and embroidery. Her 12' x 32' shed is heated and cooled with an electric wall unit, so I will never hear complaints about electric bills. LOL

It warmed up enough on Thursday for me to get the seam sealer and final coat of epoxy on the underside on Thursday. Left the space heater on for 24 hours to make sure everything cured properly and then today I installed the trunk lid.

Took a while to get it all lined up again but once that was done a shot two coats of epoxy primer on it.

I have 4 small areas of rusted metal that need replacing, so I plan to go after those next.
Then I will move on to working on the doors and front fenders. My goal is to get everything rust free and in epoxy primer then begin the real work of prepping everything for paint.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

I need some clarification on colors for the interior.
The exterior color is Q Electric Blue, which I have on hand.
The interior color is U Frost Blue, which I have on hand.
The steering column is Bahama Blue Suede, which I have already ordered.

Questions:
1. It appears the inside of the trunk was painted in the exterior color. Would that be correct?
2. Should the door jambs match the exterior as well?
3. It appears the raised portion of the inner doors is Frost Blue, does the rest of door match the exterior paint?
4. As for the interior metal in general (other than the Bahama Blue Suede), should it be the Frost Blue?
5. Which parts get the Bahama Blue Poly Suede?
a. The metal portion of the Dash
b. Steering Column Assembly
c. Windshield Garnish Moldings
d. Upper windshield trim molding
e. A-pillar moldings
f. Kick panels
g. Mirror Bracket
6. What color blue should the steering wheel be?
7. What color blue should the defroster vents be?

Any help with this is greatly appreciated. I do have a list of factory interior colors but it really isn't very detailed, plus it is very difficult to read.

 

[MarPar]

These are the ones I can answer for you...

My tag for reference

1. It appears the inside of the trunk was painted in the exterior color. Would that be correct? Yes

2. Should the door jambs match the exterior as well? Yes

3. It appears the raised portion of the inner doors is Frost Blue, does the rest of door match the exterior paint? No frost blue

6. What color should the steering wheel be? Blue

7. What color should the dash vents be? If you are talking about A/C vents, black

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Thanks.
On the steering wheel, I was wondering which blue?
And I was referring to the defroster vents, sorry I should have been more clear on that.

Below are updated questions with answers.
Questions:
1. It appears the inside of the trunk was painted in the exterior color. Would that be correct? YES
2. Should the door jambs match the exterior as well? YES
3. It appears the raised portion of the inner doors is Frost Blue, does the rest of door match the exterior paint? NO, its all Frost Blue
4. As for the interior metal in general (other than the Bahama Blue Suede), should it be the Frost Blue?
5. Which parts get the Bahama Blue Poly Suede?
a. The metal portion of the Dash
b. Steering Column Assembly YES
c. Windshield Garnish Moldings
d. Upper windshield trim molding
e. A-pillar moldings
f. Kick panels
g. Mirror Bracket
6. Which color blue should the steering wheel be?
7. Which color blue should the defroster vents be?

 

[MarPar]

Im pretty sure the kick panels and defroster vents are Bahama blue along with the metal part of the dash. But don't quote me on this.

@zyzzyx Any thoughts Paulie?

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Im pretty sure the kick panels and defroster vents are Bahama blue along with the metal part of the dash. But don't quote me on this.

@zyzzyx Any thoughts Paulie?

I would agree with you based upon what I have seen in my research. The Kick Panels, dash metal and A-pillar covers looks to be the same.

 

[zyzzyx]

You would be correct Mario! The only thing that I found on my car is the Dash pads and the console are
a Turquoise shade as seen in the pics. Also, the arm rests are turquoise. Go figure!